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Stihl MS260 won't run.


Adamam
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I'm stuck!

 

Compression not awesome, but 155-160, so not terrible.

 

Carb cleaned and kit-ed.

 

Fuel line and filter perfect.

 

Piston/rings and cylinder are fine.

 

Fuel is fine.

 

Starts first pull, but won't rev up properly and won't run long enough to even begin to look at the carb (set 1 turn/1 turn).

 

If left idling it runs down and stops.

 

Can be kept running by feathering the throttle, but doesn't rev up properly at all.

 

Once it's stopped, it doesn't want to start again. Sometimes will fire a couple of times.

 

I'm stuck!

 

And ideas?

 

:confused1:

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Is the meter arm set right on the carb?

 

Is the could all good and spark nice and strong?

 

Could it be the crank seals playing you around sending you in the wrong direction? I have one in at the mo that will fire and tick over nicely but pull the throttle and it dies. So testing it tomoz.

 

Settings should be 1 turn on the low and 3/4 turn on the high.

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Happy new year!

 

Crank seals have always caused high reving when I've encountered them, whereas this one won't rev up properly at all.

 

I'll re-check the carb, but I'm pretty sure it's ok...

 

I reset the air gap because the coil was a little distant, but maybe it's just a dodgy coil. Wouldn't that refuse to start completely?

 

Stupid, boring 026/260s!

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Happy new year!

 

Crank seals have always caused high reving when I've encountered them, whereas this one won't rev up properly at all.

 

I'll re-check the carb, but I'm pretty sure it's ok...

 

I reset the air gap because the coil was a little distant, but maybe it's just a dodgy coil. Wouldn't that refuse to start completely?

 

Stupid, boring 026/260s!

 

Depends on the coil. Easy way, see if a good spark, then increase the gap on the plug until you get no spark, if it still sparks when the gap is ridiculously big then the could is generally ok.

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This!

 

Thanks for that, I hadn't noticed how badly the arm fits. Have bent it as proof of concept, and will replace.

 

Thanks again!

 

:thumbup:

 

The arm doesn't generally need replacing, just bending back in place. But if you order a new meter valve kits they come with it.

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