replacement 550 xp

[54gka]

Picked up my new replacement 550 this morning after nothing but trouble with the first one.After a bit of advice do i keep the saw or sell it and get a non auto tune as i have lost all faith in this product and what saw to replace it with.Also if i did keep it should i set the auto tune as the manual states as the dealer said no need to but this would of been set to work shop conditions and not for outside use or is this the idea of auto tune.I know it might seem a daft question but any answers welcome.Kev

[Eddy_t]

I just cut with mine from the start, after all, how would you set the autotune if you arrived on a job and there's no logs to make cuts in?

 

 

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[54gka]

Id use my 365 first then try the 550 on some nice big rings.How you getting on with your 550 Eddy_t.My first saw had on going starting problems when warm do you have any tips on starting when warm or is it just the matter of finding the right way for your own saw.

[TGB]

I reckon if you've lost confidence in the product, your mind will be constantly on, 'When is it going to break next?' and not on the job. Is a saw worth that amount of worry? If it is, keep it. If not, time to cut and run.

 

The manual says to calibrate the 'AutoTune', one has to,

 

"Accelerate the engine to full throttle and saw a number of cuts in a thick log (3-5 min.) The chain saw must be run (8,000 - 12,000 rpm) the entire time so that the carburettor can adjust itself."

 

Now if that's not vague, please tell me what is. I've asked the question before, is it 3-5 cuts or 3-5 minutes... But let's not dwell on that now.

 

Quick question here: Why aren't these saws sold with a tacho or can people tell when a saw is going 8,000-12,000rpm? When I read through the manual, I then contacted the dealer, who said you just need to do it the once and, "We just say, to work the saw for five minutes or more." So I that's what I did. And so far, fingers & toes crossed, things have been good.

 

But getting back to it. If you're going to sell it as a new saw, it matters not one jot if the saw gets calibrated or not. But if you do calibrate it in the prescribed manner, you'll have to clean it before the sale.

 

If on the other hand you're going to keep it. You may aswell calibrate it, what have you got to lose?

Edited September 14, 2013 by TGB

[Eddy_t]

Id use my 365 first then try the 550 on some nice big rings.How you getting on with your 550 Eddy_t.My first saw had on going starting problems when warm do you have any tips on starting when warm or is it just the matter of finding the right way for your own saw.

 

I have a 560, it's a 2012 model with all the original bits, I didn't bother reading the manual, therefore I didn't read the set up, I started it, revved it to warm it, and then destroyed as many trees as possible to break it in, hot starts can be a bugger Tbf, especially if its cooled a bit, such as sat for 5 mins, I usually start it on WOT if its been sat for 5 mins, if its ran out though its a PITA so I just treat it as a cold start, but I've always done that with the 385xp, as repriming the carb on a non-purge bulbed saw is a bugger, so that was 2nd nature to me. Immediate restarts are just a case of pulling it over a few times

 

 

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