Husqvarna 257XP

[Dorset Treeman]

I put it in my local husky dealers and they said to replace the whole thing. Probably because they couldn't be bothered to take it apart and thought they would try and get £100 out of me for a whole new assembly!

[SawTroll]

The 257 was given to me so don't know the year and I will contact the eBay seller to see if I can find out what year the 262XP was that the part is coming off.

 

The serial number will tell which year and week it was made.

[adw]

To repair the brake, remove from the saw, to reduce spring tention knock the brake on, remove the allen screw securing the hand guard three turns tap the head of the screw to remove the inner coller, remove the screw fully, use a small punch to tap out the outer collar, remove the hand guard, remove the screws securing the spring cover, be carefull as you remove the cover as there is a compression spring under here, pry the end of the spring up far enough to enter a small screw driver into the end, allow the spring to come out of the cover onto the shank of the screw driver, this will stop it flying out, now clean out the debris from in and around the knee link joint, work the joint back and forth to make sure it now goes over centre, now re fit the spring, i would suggest making a pushing tool with a forked end which will enter into the end of the spring to stop it flying out as you push it in, i have also used a pair of long nose pliers to enter into the spring and use this as a tool to push the spring, if you find it hard to hold the cover whilst re fitting the spring, place two 8mm bolts tight in a vice thread upwards, space them the same distance as the chain brake holes, plave the brake band side up onto the upstanding bolts, secure with a couple of bar nuts, once the spring is back in grease all internals and re fit the spring cover, as the brake is now on you need to load it, you will find it very difficult to align the hand guard back on the cover, so get it somewhere near, enter a conical punch through the hand guard and cover hole now push down on the rear section of the hand guard whilst pulling it back toward you, it should now load, remove the punch and hand guard, re fit the gaurd centrally, re fit the screw and collers, make sure the brake works, knock it on a few times,make sure with the brake loaded, the hand guard springs back to the central position, if not remove and re centralise, later brakes have a much larger spring pushed inside the guard its self and retained with a pin and e clip, there is never any need to remove this pin and spring, if by mistake you do, yo will need to rfit the spring, compress the two ends of the spring together push the looped end up into the guard as far as possible make sure the arc side of the spring is facing forward, and the pig tail of the spring is rearward, push the pin back in, if you have done it correctly the arc side of the spring shall now be resting on top of the pin and stoping it from coming out.

[Dorset Treeman]

To repair the brake, remove from the saw, to reduce spring tention knock the brake on, remove the allen screw securing the hand guard three turns tap the head of the screw to remove the inner coller, remove the screw fully, use a small punch to tap out the outer collar, remove the hand guard, remove the screws securing the spring cover, be carefull as you remove the cover as there is a compression spring under here, pry the end of the spring up far enough to enter a small screw driver into the end, allow the spring to come out of the cover onto the shank of the screw driver, this will stop it flying out, now clean out the debris from in and around the knee link joint, work the joint back and forth to make sure it now goes over centre, now re fit the spring, i would suggest making a pushing tool with a forked end which will enter into the end of the spring to stop it flying out as you push it in, i have also used a pair of long nose pliers to enter into the spring and use this as a tool to push the spring, if you find it hard to hold the cover whilst re fitting the spring, place two 8mm bolts tight in a vice thread upwards, space them the same distance as the chain brake holes, plave the brake band side up onto the upstanding bolts, secure with a couple of bar nuts, once the spring is back in grease all internals and re fit the spring cover, as the brake is now on you need to load it, you will find it very difficult to align the hand guard back on the cover, so get it somewhere near, enter a conical punch through the hand guard and cover hole now push down on the rear section of the hand guard whilst pulling it back toward you, it should now load, remove the punch and hand guard, re fit the gaurd centrally, re fit the screw and collers, make sure the brake works, knock it on a few times,make sure with the brake loaded, the hand guard springs back to the central position, if not remove and re centralise, later brakes have a much larger spring pushed inside the guard its self and retained with a pin and e clip, there is never any need to remove this pin and spring, if by mistake you do, yo will need to rfit the spring, compress the two ends of the spring together push the looped end up into the guard as far as possible make sure the arc side of the spring is facing forward, and the pig tail of the spring is rearward, push the pin back in, if you have done it correctly the arc side of the spring shall now be resting on top of the pin and stoping it from coming out.

This is brilliant, thank you very much. I think I will rope my brother-in-law into helping me with this, following this detailed step-by-step guidance, as he is much more mechanically minded than me. ]

 

 

This

[SawTroll]

Is it possible to change the heading of this thread? It looks a bit odd that it says 257XP, when there never was such a model?

Edited July 28, 2014 by SawTroll