Homelite saw help

[Alexclarke91]

Hi all,

 

I am new to chainsaw ownership and have just bought a Homelite VI 125 on eBay with the intention of restoring it and potentially using it as a film prop.

 

So far I have cleaned the saw and replaced the Rubber fuel hose which was completely rotten. my issue now is that I have no spark. so far I have ordered a replacement plug (Champion CJ8) and removed/cleaned and inspected the coil for obvious damage.

 

I have also tried to achieve a spark with the kill switch isolated to rule out a bad switch.

 

The saw seems to have very good compression.

 

I am struggling to find information on the VI 125 but it seems to be related to the XL series and in particular the SUPER models.

 

Thanks in advance to anyone who can shed some light on my problem.

 

Alex

[Eddy_t]

If you get a paper clip and put it in the spark plug boot, hold that about 1mm from the cylinder and pull the engine over, if you can't see a spark arc over to the cylinder then the coil is knackered

 

 

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[Craobh]

Hi all,

 

I am new to chainsaw ownership and have just bought a Homelite VI 125 on eBay with the intention of restoring it and potentially using it as a film prop.

 

So far I have cleaned the saw and replaced the Rubber fuel hose which was completely rotten. my issue now is that I have no spark. so far I have ordered a replacement plug (Champion CJ8) and removed/cleaned and inspected the coil for obvious damage.

 

I have also tried to achieve a spark with the kill switch isolated to rule out a bad switch.

 

The saw seems to have very good compression.

 

I am struggling to find information on the VI 125 but it seems to be related to the XL series and in particular the SUPER models.

 

Thanks in advance to anyone who can shed some light on my problem.

 

Alex

 

I'm guessing your talking bout the US hommies here if so you might get better info on them from my bros over the pond ......not that spud etc won't be able to help ya as he the guru in my book lol (wee book tho) I'll ask my FIL if he knows about those saws next time I yack with him.

[agg221]

I don't know the model at all, and can't find much on it. There was however also a VI-123, for which there is slightly more information:

 

Model Profile: VI-123

 

Assuming they are of similar construction (identical date ranges of manufacture suggest that this may be the case) the use of a flywheel magneto suggests that it could well be points ignition rather than a more modern electronic type ignition. If so, you will probably find access to the points behind the flywheel. It's worth having a look under there anyway as if there is obvious corrosion on the coil that is likely to be the problem. To get the flywheel off you may or may not need to lock the crankshaft (on a Stihl 070 for example you don't as the flywheel is screwed on to a backing plate). If you do have to lock the crank to undo the flywheel nut, take out the spark plug and either insert a proper plastic piston stop, or turn the engine over far enough that the piston is on the up stroke, up past the exhaust port, and then feed in some rope - don't do it with the piston lower down as you can jam the rope between the exhaust port and the piston and it is a pig to get back out, guess how I know this....

 

You can also test electrically for continuity at various points - there are guides to doing this to be found using Google, but if you get stuck, shout.

 

Having tried the suggestion above (using a paperclip to see if you can get a spark) there are a couple of other things you can try. Note, even if there is a spark, it may not be strong enough to fire under compression, in which case the suggestions below may still help.

 

Firstly, it is likely that if it has points they are dirty or corroded. Cleaning up with a bit of emery paper would be worthwhile. You may also need to re-gap them with a feeler gauge.

 

Secondly, another thing that can happen on magneto ignitions is that you get demagnetisation. This can be cured by taking the plug out to allow the crank to rotate freely and then spinning it over for about 5-10mins with an electric drill. The easiest way I found to do this was to fit a socket to the flywheel nut and then grind a bolt head to fit the square, fitting the shank of the bolt in the drill chuck.

 

Hope some of the above is of use!

 

Alec

[spudulike]

Think that just about covers it - fingers crossed it is dirty points and not a dodgy coil!

 

Double check the coil to flywheel gap - use a typical business card as a gauge between the coil and the flywheel - to large a gap will stop it sparking.

 

Reducing this gap may help weak magnets in the flywheel but make sure the coil doesn't contact the flywheel.

[Alexclarke91]

Hi All,

 

Many thanks for all your responses.

I haven't had much time to look at the saw as I have been very busy lately.

 

Yes it is an American made saw and is very similar to the VI-123.

the differences are mostly in the handles it seems, mine has a safety lever on top of the trigger handle etc...

 

I have had a chance this afternoon to pull off the flywheel (really easy, a single nut holds it on its spindle) and looked at the coil/points etc.

 

Aside from being slightly dirty (I cleaned everything up with a rag and carb cleaner) I could see no signs of damage or obvious failures. I checked the points gap which was correctly set to .15 as printed on the flywheel.

 

I have changed the plug for a new Oregon one and also used a business card as suggested to gap the coil, which seems to be very magnetic, (its hard to prise the coil off it if you let go of it and its stick to it anyway).

 

I will have another play with it when I get some time and let you know if i make any progress.

 

Thanks again for all your help, I have never worked on anything with a carb or points before (I'm only 21) so I'm still learning.

 

Cheers

 

Alex

[pycoed]

Clean the faces of the points with some wet & dry or emery paper bent over a card. The faces suffer from oxidation in storage & often cause a problem on points systems. After you've done it, check the points for continuity when closed 'cos sometimes it takes a fair old rub to clean them up.