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Posted

Above is correct but generally speaking beech is seen not to tolerate heavy reduction. However I've been a Tree surgeon for 16yrs and have seen some cut hard (not by myself) and have recovered. Please refer to your bs3998 its your duty as a professional arborist to ensure that the customer is advised properly. I know you get the I don't care what it looks like customer and the I don't care if it grows back customer. The same as you get the guy that also doesn't care that will do it to the trees.

But you obviously do, so as a rule depending on tree condition I personally don't reduce much more than 20-25% of the crown not the tree as a whole always to suitable growth points. Generally the best time to reduce most broadleaf trees is at the peak of its vitality during photosynthesis as the tree has produce enough energy to see itself through the dormant period and will have enough energy to put in to c.o.d.i.t

Hope this was of some use.

Phil

Posted

Ps. People don't like to use percentages anymore as your 25% and a tree officers 25% may differ so try to talk in metres or feet. This is why people may like to see photos and have rough dimensions to feel as if they can give you correct advice. Peace

Posted

With no pic to refer to i would blurt out no wound >2"

 

re waiting til summer yes maybe there is a point depending on condition; if tree has good reserves now maybe no great concern when.

Posted
I hope your not saying I've blurted our poor advice.

However now would not be a suitable time to cut as the sap is rising therefore it would have to put its energy into repairing the wounds.

re suitable; attached. Tree may be best able to repair wounds while growing. "Avoid pruning when leaves are forming or falling" is an old wives' tale i have repeated a few thousand times, but now doubt.

 

At any rate we shan't argue about a tree we have not seen. :001_huh:

pruning collar dujesieffken.pdf

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