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Quarter sawing using alaskan + mini mill part 1


Rob D
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Hi Rob, thanks for the vid. correct me if i am wrong but wouldn't the 2 boards either side of the heart be quarter sawn by default by cutting straight across as normal?:biggrin:

 

 

Yep - actually that's a very good point Bob. Before moving the quarters as shown I should really mill another plank with the Alaskan 2" above the mid cut to produce these boards and also reduce the weight of the remaining quarters.

 

That will be the first part in 'Part 2'!

 

In fact I may just quarter saw in situ using a combo of Alaskan and mini mill - this can then be 'Method 1' although I never look forward to using the mini mill more than once or twice on a log!

 

 

:biggrin:

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It should make it a lot easier..... the only thing I can see being a problem quarter sawing a large log with the flip and rip will be lining up the log with the frame....

 

 

That will come in part 3 - I wanted to start off just covering how you could do it with the handheld mills first and then build up to the f&r!

 

 

:biggrin:

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You do lose the pipping, or at the very least you render the pip/burr more unattractive. Instead of a nice cat's paw figure, you have a fan of pipping that just doesn't look as good. I guess this is why with burr elm logs, you cut the log precisely opposite to quarter sawing.

 

Jonathan

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You do lose the pipping, or at the very least you render the pip/burr more unattractive. Instead of a nice cat's paw figure, you have a fan of pipping that just doesn't look as good. I guess this is why with burr elm logs, you cut the log precisely opposite to quarter sawing.

 

Jonathan

 

 

Was chatting to Andy yesterday and confirms exactly what you're saying Jon - you need to saw off each face to get the full benefits of burring - glad you mentioned it before I started sawing that log I have! I was going to quarter it!

 

 

 

:biggrin:

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