Left handed saw use?

[Woodworks]

Here are some pictures to help explain.

 

1 Typical large stump

This is nearly a meter wide by 1 1/2 m and the hedge is only 1.8m wide so positioning can be difficult. Fortunately on this hedge I do not have cut to low as there is going to be a lot of earthing up.

[Woodworks]

2

Right handed use. R hand position and L hand position taken separately because no one to take pic. As you can probably see my hands would be almost crossed when cutting.

[Woodworks]

3

Left handed use.

[Woodworks]

Ok, the pictures may help. There is a world of difference between working on nice flat ground poking over a couple of token trees for your ticket, and doing the kind of work youre talking of. Have you considered maybe taking a refresher course to update your skills? Be very aware of where the top of the bar tip is when working in such a confined space, if the saw kicks back you will not have much room to get out if it's way if at all. I hope you have some basic saw protection such as chainsaw trousers, boots, gloves and a hard hat with visor, defenders etc. If possible, is there another member near you who may be able to give some pointers, or even a hand?

 

Sorry Andy I missed this post.

Yes I have all safety kit. A refresher course would be good but can I do one applicable to the work I am doing or would I have to start at the beginning?

 

I would happily go and work for someone for a day or two to learn new skills or pay for someone to come out and give some tips.

[WorcsWuss]

Aaahhhh! With you now!

No, I'd do it the same as you and use normal wedges, or open it up with a felling lever and stick a wedge of timber in there....

 

Some things are just a nuisance, this is one of those things....

[Andy Collins]

I'd start a thread asking in your area, there's several from down your way on here, though how close I don't know. As for training, a refresher would top up your knowledge, and update you with changes in the last 18 years or so, again ask for someone in your area. Hope is helps, most on here are keen to assist if asked.

[Dom]

Could you put small snapped sections of twig around in the kerf of the cut? one wedge will tilt the opposite side down and will catch your saw. Whereas several sections of twig will support the weight of the final ring, and stop it teetering onto and catching your bar as you finish the cut..

[Jamie M]

Another option (though timely) is to cut vertically down through the stump in say two or three sections, then cut horizontally as normal. That way you are reducing the size and therefore weight of each section so less chance of the saw nipping up. Good luck

[Goaty]

When using alaskan mill I always use left handed, I think thats standard procedure. The twists in your arms on big cuts right handed in your situ leads to RSI in my experience. As a H&S issue thats a priority I'd say. Plus the saw is unlikely to kick out on big lumps like that.

[Andy Collins]

Those pictures paint a vastly different image than what I imagined you meant!! others have pretty much summed it up quite well now. Yes with an Alaskan mill you use the left hand on the trigger handle, but you have rails that will keep you away from the chain, and I'd guess kickback is virtually impossible as your unlikely to dig in the top quarter of the bar tip first. It's virtually a different tool to a saw being used in the traditional manner.