Milling Novice, tips & tools???

[jnoon]

hi lads/ladies,

 

I would like to get into the world of milling

 

Im a qualified climber, so can get my hands on some tidy wood!!, previous to my climbing occupation when i left school i went to college and am also qualified as a carpenter / joiner, (have done carpentry/joinery for about4 years) before i got p****d of with site work and retrained as a tree surgeon!!

 

Ive got all makita carpentry tools, 18v lithium drills/impact driver, chop saw, skill saw, jig saw sds drill etc etc,,,

 

Im in the process of ordering a bigger saw (ms 660!)

my questions are ...

 

what tools do you need to mill timber??

which mill would be better for a novice)??

what sells best benches, stools, tables etc..??

 

thanks !!

[Paul Smith]

Some very talented people on here! Look at Rob D's web site, lots of great info there!

[jnoon]

Some very talented people on here! Look at Rob D's web site, lots of great info there!

 

whats his website mate?

[Paul Smith]

alaskan mill I home of the portable chainsaw mill

[morten]

I am milling quite a bit, using an MS 660.

 

I have an Alaskan Mill, and a Mini Mill that I use for edging/squaring, and also to produce the first flat surface for the Alaskan Mill. I've found that to work very well.

 

In any case you'll probably need to a rail for the first cut (required if you don't use the Mini Mill). An aluminium ladder is well suited for that purpose. You can either drill holes through the steps for screws, or make an attachment that holds on to the ladder and is fixed to the end-grain of the log with screws (I find that easier - I may be able to dig out some pictures).

 

For the best (and fastest) milling results, you need special "ripping" chains, typically filed at an angle of 0-10 degrees, as opposed to 20-30 degrees for cross grain cutting.

 

Read through the milling forum (and the Alaskan sub forum) for more info.

Edited May 27, 2012 by morten

[agg221]

In answer to your question on equipment, I would suggest a 36" Alaskan mill (it can be adjusted smaller if required), the biggest powerhead you can afford - 066/MS660 would be a minimum for regular use on anything much over a foot diameter and 070/075/076/084/088/MS880/090 are all good choices, depending on what you can find and afford. You could use an 051 as well for smaller stuff. Chain brakes are not a necessity. Buy a bar to suit - 36" or 42" and preferably roller nose not hard nose and a ripping chain.

 

Alec

[jnoon]

thanks:thumbup1:

 

which wood is best forf different projects?

[agg221]

thanks:thumbup1:

 

which wood is best forf different projects?

 

Whatever you can get for free

 

More seriously, if you want to use it outside and don't want regular maintenance you pretty much have to accept that it will go grey, or you will have to paint it. Oak, sweet chestnut, robinia and yew are the most durable, although some people would regard it as sacrilege to let yew go grey. Only reckon on the heartwood lasting, so if you leave it waney edged with sapwood and bark included, reckon on the design allowing for these to be lost. Larch heartwood is OK too, but has a tendency to move and crack even though it doesn't rot.

 

Indoors, whatever you like the look of. Depends on whether your preferred style is chunky and rustic, smooth, clean lines or fine cabinetwork. Also depends on whether you're making to use, or to sell. Sycamore gives a good clean colour, ash is popular but I dislike it as it's open grained and goes dirty very easily. Beech is out of favour but good if you like the look.

 

I wouldn't bother milling horse chestnut or willow though, or poplar unless you want to make weatherboarding (it takes up preservative well).

 

Alec

[jnoon]

Whatever you can get for free

 

More seriously, if you want to use it outside and don't want regular maintenance you pretty much have to accept that it will go grey, or you will have to paint it. Oak, sweet chestnut, robinia and yew are the most durable, although some people would regard it as sacrilege to let yew go grey. Only reckon on the heartwood lasting, so if you leave it waney edged with sapwood and bark included, reckon on the design allowing for these to be lost. Larch heartwood is OK too, but has a tendency to move and crack even though it doesn't rot.

 

Indoors, whatever you like the look of. Depends on whether your preferred style is chunky and rustic, smooth, clean lines or fine cabinetwork. Also depends on whether you're making to use, or to sell. Sycamore gives a good clean colour, ash is popular but I dislike it as it's open grained and goes dirty very easily. Beech is out of favour but good if you like the look.

 

I wouldn't bother milling horse chestnut or willow though, or poplar unless you want to make weatherboarding (it takes up preservative well).

 

Alec

 

thanks mate:thumbup1: proper advice, ideal,

will aim to make all sorts, from rustic tables to fine table and chairs:001_smile:

just need to get the 660 and mill now:lol:

[Rob D]

Ditto the above.

 

All about chain sharpness is milling - if it's steady and progressive you've got it right. If you're thinking 'it's taking a looooong' time then the chain is dull.

 

Try not to mill everything that moves to start with - be selective.

 

Take time to sticker and neatly stack your timber to dry.

 

Have some fun making things green with not so good pieces - good practice and sellable.

 

Rest the saw down the log and let it idle for 2 mins after finishing a plank.

 

Register on Chainsawbars ? bars, chains and chainsaw accessories - e-mail me at [email protected] to say you've done this and I can do the discount.