Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

Milling oak


TMJ
 Share

Recommended Posts

I have been milling mostly oak beams for a few months now. I quickly appreciated the importance of correct sharpening (as advised by Rob D). However, at times with the bar of 30" or 36" my ms660 seems to have a bit of hard time. Is this what others find in oak? For those that have them, is is a lot better with the 120cc saws?? :confused1:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Log in or register to remove this advert

137 cc....a monster! It doesn't seem easy to come by good examples of these older big saws. How does it compare to smaller saws? I have got a lot of oak to get through soon and i am weighing up the most efficient way of doing it hence the rethink on the saw.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got really lucky with the 090 on eBay , very good for milling ! Iv only used an 084av , 064 and ms 460 , 084av is very powerful think it's sane engine as the modern ms880 , approx 121cc I'm fairly new to milling , there will be a few more guys who comment when they cone on line

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have used an 044, 064, 066M and 076 on a 36" Alaskan to mill oak, typical cut width 2ft.

 

I've been milling timber over the past year or so for an extension, so lots of 3" and 4" slabs for ripping down to make joists and rafters, together with a few beams.

 

The first three saws are too slow to make this viable. The 066M copes without stressing it, but some years back I reached the view that life was too short to do this, and tended to lump together the logs and hire in a band mill, just using the Alaskan for occasional bits and pieces.

 

With the amount needed for the extension, I bought a chainsaw driven bandsaw mill - the Ripsaw. It's temperamental, but when it's set up right it's a real pleasure to use. Really fast and efficient on kerf (I bought the 044 to run it actually, as even in a 14" cut the 066M was seriously overpowered). The down side is that it only has a 14" throat, so won't square up anything bigger than a 20" butt, but for most things it's fantastic, if exasperating from time to time.

 

I have been out milling with the 076 today. It's a real pleasure. Still need the bandsaw due to the kerf issue, but I'm not too worried about finish, so I'm running a skip chain, which seems to work well with the low revs/high torque and it flies. Skip chain also means you only have half the teeth to sharpen.

 

So whilst it's not in the 120cc+ category (076 is 111cc), personally I'm finding getting out the Alaskan to be something to look forward to, rather than something to be put off as long as possible.

 

Alec

Link to comment
Share on other sites

mmm...i tried to look up the power ratings of the 070 and i think it is less hp than the modern big saws of similar cc....so this must be the torque factor of older models. i will look up the ripsaws but my main issue is breaking up big logs. i don't mind the 'smaller' pieces as a well sharpened chain in a mini mill is very easy to use and quick enough.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Keep an eye out for an 090 :) pricey tho , last 3 on eBay have been £450,£530and £720 ! Just keep going up I think it's because of the nice weather and more people want to be out milling also the becoming really collectable , guys from US. Are screaming for them and thing nothing of paying 2500$-3500$!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

£720!!!!!! There aren't many bits of machinery that have kept their value like that. This is approaching new 880/ 3120 values. It puts a smile on the faces of those who have kept their big old saws though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have been milling mostly oak beams for a few months now. I quickly appreciated the importance of correct sharpening (as advised by Rob D). However, at times with the bar of 30" or 36" my ms660 seems to have a bit of hard time. Is this what others find in oak? For those that have them, is is a lot better with the 120cc saws?? :confused1:

 

 

 

If you're milling a 30" log with a 36" bar on the ms660 you're cutting at max all the time and after a few planks it will start to get tiring...

 

The 880 will manage 30" better.... it's not night and day but you can really notice the additional torque and power.

 

I'd save the few £100 extra and get a new one though - as said above prices for secondhand big saws are very high.

 

The other alternative is to start quarter sawing. I've just had a go at this on a big beech log and although it's fiddly in some ways it feels more productive. Will be posting a vid soon (it's not a very good one though :blushing:) on this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

  •  

  • Featured Adverts

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.