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Whistling flue


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maybe a rotating cowl or a spinning one?

 

That will increase the draw massively, that will cause problems elsewhere, ie there may be so much draw that the secondary air supply needs shutting right down, that will make the glass to black.

 

I would suggest you go back to the installer ( or Clearview) and ask them to resolve the issue. If this is not possible then ring Eurocowl of Southampton and have a chat with their tech guy, he is pretty good, their products are available through most good stove outlets,

.

 

A

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Also a way to approach this would be to measure the fue draught with a draught gauge. If draught is within the range specified by the stove manual and it's still whistling then maybe there is something wrong with the air inlets or maybe air sucking through a bad seal on the door. This can be solved either by fixing the problem with the air inlets/door or returning the stove as not fit for purpose although if not installed and signed off with building control that may be a problem.

 

If when the flue draught is tested it is way too high then one way to fix this is to remove the chimney pot and fit a crown top chimney pot. These are the ones with the spikes on the top which are designed to disrupt the airflow over the pot in windy conditions which stops it over drawing. Another solution would be to install a draught stabiliser.

Edited by Fahrenheit
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Thanks for the info. I will call clearview and see what they say. The folks are away tonight and I just popped down there. Its very windy, the fire is not lit and its whistling away. When the door is opened the whistling stops my dad says.

 

Then it's clearly the cowl - if the stove is not lit there's no natural draught from the convecting gases, no 'pull' through a joint in the flue, etc.

 

One thing worth mentioning: I've been deeply impressed by Clearview's technical staff. Definitely give them a call. Talk to Karen, I suggest - she's a whiz on flues.

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Also a way to approach this would be to measure the fue draught with a draught gauge. If draught is within the range specified by the stove manual and it's still whistling then maybe there is something wrong with the air inlets or maybe air sucking through a bad seal on the door. This can be solved either by fixing the problem with the air inlets/door or returning the stove as not fit for purpose although if not installed and signed off with building control that may be a problem.

 

If when the flue draught is tested it is way too high then one way to fix this is to remove the chimney pot and fit a crown top chimney pot. These are the ones with the spikes on the top which are designed to disrupt the airflow over the pot in windy conditions which stops it over drawing. Another solution would be to install a draught stabiliser.

 

When the door is open the whisting stops, sounds like a new door rope is needed, not a major job at all.

 

Testing flue draght etc really comes back to the installer, in these high winds of late draught is considerably increased. I gave a new owner a driving lesson last night with her new stove, it was pulling like hell in the high wind, I had it almost shut right down to get a nice flame pattern.

 

A

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It could be the door but more likely the air inlets. It stops when the door is open because it will no longer be sealed and sucking air through the vents. Things that whistle are usually circular, small diameter holes on air inlets. Large openings or slots don't tend to whistle due to the shape of them. Hence why when you whistle with your mouth you have to form a round opening with your lips.

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  • 11 years later...

Hi Lansctree, Did you ever resolve this? I have a Clearview which has worked perfectly and silently for 5+ years and then it started whistling on windy days. I’ve tried new door and glass seals, new fire bricks and sealing every joint around the stove. I’ve just re-positioned and tightened up the cowl. It still whistles. 

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