Bleeding canker English walnut

[Fungus]

this is a common mistake, Armillaria sp rarely fruit IME, prefering to travel underground rather than with spores by air, the only times ive seen it fruiting is in (i suspect) panic mode trying to find a new home. I see very few fruiting instances compared to the other symptoms and signs like plaques and rhizomorphs.

 

Which is true for both necrotrophic parasitic Armillaria species, i.e. A. mellea and A. ostoyae, but not for the saprotrophic A. lutea.

[ScottF]

I have heard (Glynn percival) suggest that airspading out the root crown and replacing the soil round the root crown with a 50/50 mix of sand and perlite is helpful in protecting against the Armillaria sp

 

Was this proposed as a treatment for an infected tree or more as a prophylactic prescription in an area of known infection, Tony?

 

Sounds interesting.

[Tony Croft aka hamadryad]

Was this proposed as a treatment for an infected tree or more as a prophylactic prescription in an area of known infection, Tony?

 

Sounds interesting.

 

I believe the thoery is that by using the airspade to excavate rhizomorphs from the RPA and whilst at it mixing the sand and perlite as a soil substitute around the root crown is what is being proposed as treatment. Which makes a lot of sense and is holistic therapy.

[ScottF]

Like it. Is it in Glyn's literature somewhere? Haven't seen it.

[Tony Croft aka hamadryad]

Like it. Is it in Glyn's literature somewhere? Haven't seen it.

 

I havent seen the written version of this topic, but heard him speak of it at the ISA arborcamp at Jonesies show, this year:thumbup1:

[ScottF]

Good knowledge

[treeseer]

I believe the thoery is that by using the airspade to excavate rhizomorphs from the RPA and whilst at it mixing the sand and perlite as a soil substitute around the root crown is what is being proposed as treatment. Which makes a lot of sense and is holistic therapy.

 

Totally agree with this; variations have been done with success in the past. Attached yellow triangle area had bootlaces and mycelial sheath 4 years before the pic, following damage from sidewalk construction. After removing badly infected, but leaving slightly affected, tissue, the area was sprayed with i believe 10% bleach (have also used hydrogen peroxide for the purpose) and left open.

 

Soil was removed from all around the base of the tree, using shovel and trowel and hose, those being pre-supersonic air days, and replaced with 50% expanded aggregate--"stalite", and 50% soil inoculated with a packaged product aka "Tree Saver" and compost from the woodchip pile full of Pisolithus strands. Being a little less ignorant of these matters now, I might go with a more sterile approach, but i still believe that introducing antagonists to the bad guys makes sense.

 

Revisited the tree this past summer. Sounding the trunk and inspecting bark and soil revealed no signs of infection, next pic, behind the dam fern planted despite the "6" clearance" rule. crown of that q alba follows. other published work from california showed success with a more aggressive bark removal approach, excising every visible hypha. Many ways it seems to skin the fungal cat, or at least sheath its fangs for a time.

 

re the horsechestnuts, sorry canker has been an issue. Have you tried excising and cauterizing the lesions with a blowtorch? Works sometimes with beech and oak here. We have few horsechestnuts, but this is also now being trialed at bartlett as well. like sealing huge wounds, little to lose--that was just an analogy tony; let's not scare off any more posters! wonder where poor APC is off to now...

[Ben Ballard]

Totally agree with this; variations have been done with success in the past. Attached yellow triangle area had bootlaces and mycelial sheath 4 years before the pic, following damage from sidewalk construction. After removing badly infected, but leaving slightly affected, tissue, the area was sprayed with i believe 10% bleach (have also used hydrogen peroxide for the purpose) and left open.

 

Soil was removed from all around the base of the tree, using shovel and trowel and hose, those being pre-supersonic air days, and replaced with 50% expanded aggregate--"stalite", and 50% soil inoculated with a packaged product aka "Tree Saver" and compost from the woodchip pile full of Pisolithus strands. Being a little less ignorant of these matters now, I might go with a more sterile approach, but i still believe that introducing antagonists to the bad guys makes sense.

 

Revisited the tree this past summer. Sounding the trunk and inspecting bark and soil revealed no signs of infection, next pic, behind the dam fern planted despite the "6" clearance" rule. crown of that q alba follows. other published work from california showed success with a more aggressive bark removal approach, excising every visible hypha. Many ways it seems to skin the fungal cat, or at least sheath its fangs for a time.

 

re the horsechestnuts, sorry canker has been an issue. Have you tried excising and cauterizing the lesions with a blowtorch? Works sometimes with beech and oak here. We have few horsechestnuts, but this is also now being trialed at bartlett as well. like sealing huge wounds, little to lose--that was just an analogy tony; let's not scare off any more posters! wonder where poor APC is off to now...

 

good tip for the horsechestnuts will have to give it a try, got some young ones in a avenue showing signs of it.

[Fungus]

50% soil inoculated with a packaged product aka "Treesaver" and compost from the woodchip pile full of Pisolitus strands. Being a little less ignorant of these matters now, I might go with a more sterile approach, but i still believe that introducing antagonists to the bad guys makes sense.

 

Guy,

See Mycorrhiza and learn about the ingredients and claimed "effects" of products such as Treesaver. And note, that Pisolitus is a pioneer symbiont with young trees rooting in soils with a pH 1-2.

[Tony Croft aka hamadryad]

hy complicate a simple method? the removal of rhizos and a perlite sand mix is enough messing around, and will tip the blance back in the trees favour. we try to make it all so complicated, let nature do the work, just help the environment along and it will be fine.