Few ideas how to put the Pinto to good use...

[Xerxses]

 

Dont think its been posted before.

[RobRainford]

i liked the double climbing line system, was very cool. lots of shiny stuff!

[Rupe]

Not sure about the method he shows at around the 5 minute mark. Effectivley its like a rope guide mad on your access line, great, but you have to be very careful using that method. He says that the prussik cant get pulled through the loop but it can! If its tied near the TIP then its safe as, but if its 10feet below the TIP it is possible for the prussik to go through the butterfly loop and the loop then moves up the now doubled line until it reaches the TIP. SO if thats 10 feet away you would fall 10 feet.

 

There is a way to prevent this and I can't remember how, but he should really have pointed it out.

 

Like I say though is the whol thing is set up at the TIP then the loop cant go anywhere.

[Taylor L. Hamel]

Hi Rupe,

 

Would you share your experience with the prusik pulling through the loop? I have never experienced this and I feel that it is even less likely to happen with this method as there is nothing in the loop to stiffen it. Even with a stiffener (take the Treemagineer's pulleySAVER, for example) I have not experienced a pull-through... and I have tried to make it happen! Purposely weighting and un-weighting the system while shaking it about and dashing it against limbs.

 

Where I could possibly see a pull-through happening is if the prusik does not have enough coils. The pulleySAVER uses OP 8mm with a "4-wrap, 8-coil" prusik on 13mm Sirius.

 

One thing that I should have reiterated in the video was the need (or at least recommendation) for a stopper knot below the prusik. A wet or icy rope could have the prusik slipping.

 

Rupe, I would like to hear your experience with pull-through as I certainly do wish to take precautions!

 

Thanks

[Rupe]

Thanks for the response and good to hear from you directly. I did manage to get it to pull through once (by accident) and it surprised me to say the least!! I think I dropped about 15 feet and I was only 30feet up so a good shock!! No harm done.

 

I cant say for sure how any wraps the prussik had, or in fact the pulley might have been tied onto an alpine butterfly, but even so I still think this method has its risks. I know that the sytem was unloaded and then shock loaded, so not a normal situation. I had done something wrong for sure but it still happened so it makes me wary, and I have not used it since.

 

This was about three years ago, I could look it up cos I know exactly what job it was on. I then talked to Jon Turnbul about it as he was working for around that time and he explained a method of preventing it but I'm not clear on that either!!

 

Not much help I know, I just know to be wary of it. If the six wrap prussik is enough to prevent it then all well and good, if you are sure?

[Rupe]

I think the prussik has less chance of it slipping, the loop would hold it in place, its fallign through the loop that could be a problem.

[Taylor L. Hamel]

Well, glad you didn't fall the other 15'! Thank you for sharing.

 

I think, with all things climbing related, it is certainly good practice to glance up at your tie in point occasionally. Also, take the little extra steps. 6 coils are better than 4... but 8 are better than 6! Also, a stopper knot below the prusik.

 

Speaking of the stopper below... If the prusik began to slip, the loop would move downward with it. As the access line is moving "up" through the prusik, it continues over the crotch and then "down" with the loop!

[Rupe]

Yes i guess it would slip and allow extra rope to the loop side?

 

With my incicent, if the set up had been further away from the TIP than I was from the ground then I would have hit the ground, if that makes sense. If you set this method up right at or very near to the TIP then its safe as houses and needs no back up, the loop can only ever move up as far as the TIP, at which point it girth hitches the TIP and you can go nowhere. So it is a great system, I just dont like it set up part way up an access line without some additional back up.

 

Are you using an 8 wrap prussik then? I missed that on the video. That would certainly help. And if tension on the set up is maintained then I dont think it would go anywhere. I think I let the tension off and then slipped off a branch or something which shock loaded it and it popped through the loop.

 

Anyway, good vids, please post here more often.

Rupe