SRT and Hitch test/question

[BenR]

i think that its an idea worth working on:thumbup1: just looking at the binner though and its too small for all those ropes, the loading is too close to the nose, i think that a hms type would work better here.

 

Agreed. I was going to get another spliced cord to make things tighter and maybe then get a HMS if it needs it.

 

At the moment however, I am testing a new configuration suggested by the guy in the US that tried this setup minus the hitchclimber.

 

 

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Edited January 17, 2011 by Monkey-D
re-orientated pictures

[BenR]

Thanks for adjusting those pictures Monkey D. I was in a hurry and forgot to portrait them.

 

For anyone interested in this system for SRT here is the video. The guy does not climb very high or descend very far on it but it gives you the general picture. When I get the chance I will make a better video.

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-LllBrbIeM]YouTube - soft ascender/descender on PI.mpg[/ame]

 

The only problem with this method over the other is that you have to tie both hitches with a single 2m cord, then tie the ends together with the double fishermans. Or in the case of the video a zepplin bend. You could just leave it on the rope though and feed it on maintaining the shape of the hitch if you wanted to switch ropes.

Edited January 17, 2011 by BenR

[kevin bingham]

You may have better luck at this than i did. I came to the conclusion that hitches are ascenders. They cam the rope. They are not descenders. There is nothing about the hitch that should allow one to descend other than flat friction. It is kind of like trying to thum the cam on an ascender to try to slide it down the rope. In ddrt it works fine because you can open the hitch and control your descent with your hand. your in a 2:1 system. working a tree ddrt with a cammed ascender is also very possible, though not recomended.

 

In SRT after you open the hitch you must put all your weight on your hand. Friction hitches have more of a gradient between open and closed. Also, the friction hitch has the advantage of being firmly and unquestionably secured to the rope.

 

A rope wrench is a descender. The unicender has a horn that you take a wrap on which acts as a descender. Gri-gris and I'ds are descenders not ascenders.

Edited January 18, 2011 by kevin bingham

[BenR]

You may have better luck at this than i did. I came to the conclusion that hitches are ascenders. They cam the rope. They are not descenders. There is nothing about the hitch that should allow one to descend other than flat friction. It is kind of like trying to thum the cam on an ascender to try to slide it down the rope. In ddrt it works fine because you can open the hitch and control your descent with your hand. your in a 2:1 system. working a tree ddrt with a cammed ascender is also very possible, though not recomended.

 

In SRT after you open the hitch you must put all your weight on your hand. Friction hitches have more of a gradient between open and closed. Also, the friction hitch has the advantage of being firmly and unquestionably secured to the rope.

 

A rope wrench is a descender. The unicender has a horn that you take a wrap on which acts as a descender. Gri-gris and I'ds are descenders not ascenders.

 

Thanks for your input on this Kevin.. Its very helpful to have the opinion of someone who knows so much about hitches on SRT. I am still messing about with the rope wrench you will be pleased to hear. Do you know a date yet for your alloy production one??

 

As for the double distel balancing hitchclimber setup.. It works! and really well on the small test tree I climbed today... When I get my 2m beeline cord from Jonsie I will be testing on longer faster descents. I didnt want to melt the marlow boa..

 

Anyone that is interested in working the tree SRT give this a go. I think it is the cheapest and simplest way of testing SRT working. All you need is 2m of heat resistant hitch cord and a hitchclimber/pulley. Start with by tying one distel with one long and one short tail. With the long tail tie another below with opposite orientation to the rope and opposite coil direction (this keeps rope twist to a minimum). Tie the ends together with double fishermans and bobs your nans brothers uncle you have the hitch. Clip into the two bights and the pulley/hitchclimber. Hitchclimber is better because you can use a webbing sling/your lanyard for the chest attachment to the middle hole and a hand ascender tether to the top hole. of course you can just use a pantin and not make a ropewalk system.

[kevin bingham]

looking foward to hearing more. You have a picture of it?

[BenR]

looking foward to hearing more. You have a picture of it?

 

Yep top of the page. Yale xtc spearmint with the marlow boa(black and yellow) cord.

[daley]

Gri-gris and I'ds are descenders not ascenders.

A Gri/gri can be used as an ascender if you put a hand jammer above it and thread your rope through a karabiner connected to the bottom of the jammer to create a pulley.this system can also be made easier by connecting a footloop to the karabiner.

[BenR]

Gri-gris and I'ds are descenders not ascenders.

A Gri/gri can be used as an ascender if you put a hand jammer above it and thread your rope through a karabiner connected to the bottom of the jammer to create a pulley.this system can also be made easier by connecting a footloop to the karabiner.

 

RADS.. Involves buying hardware though unlike this hitch based system. Most climbers already have a hitchclimber so its minimum expenditure for a way to see you like working the whole tree SRT. No switchovers or anything needed.

[daley]

something I failed to mention:If you place the rope running from the jammer between your footloop and the front of your foot,you can place one hand on top of the jammer and the other on the handle,then when you stand in the footloop the jammed rope is automatically pulled through the Gri/gri.simples!

[kevin bingham]

the gri gri is not an ascender in that case either. the "jammer" is the ascender.