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Posted

personally i would not considder it , if your felling or using the saw in a tree you want that saw to be able to cut as quickly as possible - you cut to slowly when felling you rask a barber chair and if your cutting in the tree the same can happen , also there is a fatigue element to using an underpowered saw . if you need a 36" bar then you need a saw that will handle the demands - i would considder a 660 or husky 390xp .

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Posted

thanks for the advice, i will find another way. its touch and go if it would go through both ways on a 25" so i dont want to get there put the cuts in and find out it doesnt. The job will be felling a big beech butt with no crown and ringing it.

josh

Posted

taking into account the timber your cutting and what your doing then i would go and get me a saw that can handle the bar and chain - i was taught that its far better to have a smaller bar on a bigger unit , but the other way round and you stree the unit and stress your self when the job takes longer then thought .

Posted

I've ran a 32" on a 460 twice. It got the job done, although I wouldn't do it all the time. Typically it will wear a 20". Maybe find a spot in the middle and cut from both sides.

 

I just don't do enough big work to justify a bigger saw.

 

Vanderbilt01036.jpg

Posted

We run a 660 with 36" bar - always coped really well. Sometimes clogs but can be avoided with sensitive operator. 880 would have been ace but loads of dosh!

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