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Should i condemn this?


RobRainford
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"However, the tree is very obviously vital, vigorous and happy, it would easily take a 30% plus reduction, i would use a heavey drop crotch technique to remove heavy volume rather than just foliage mass.

 

This tree is becoming a veteran, an ecosystem in its own right and should if at all possible be retained....."

 

I like this appraisal. And from the images up, its a pretty good read too!

At the end of the day ( I guess ), its not your decision but that of the owners in as much as they will need prepeared to meet the costs involved. For warned is forearmed as they say!

Hey, Im a conservationist, I would say that!

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THanks for that hama, great bit of advice there.

 

I was thinking it must be doing alright despite the obvious problems, would i need to get the tree surveyed because of the hole on the hazard beam?

 

Would it be a possibility to completly remove the whole limb, therefore reducing lever arm and removing a hazard?

 

There is a reason a hazard beam doesnt usualy fully fail, this is because the failure actualy decreases the internal stresses. often the branch forms occlusion ribs and goes on to adapt the failure, so removal would not be needed, it would also generate a huge wound in the stem area that will decay badly due to willows poor defences with decay fungi.

 

A 30-40% hard (dropcrotch) prune would be more than sufficient, will keep wounds minimal (compromise as always) and remember, the tree is standing now, fully loaded, removeing the 30-40% of crown bulk will reduce that load so significantly as to render the tree so unstressed structualy that failure within ten years is about as likely as me giving up mycology!:thumbup:

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Ive just had a thought, along a dual carrigeway near me there were some willows that had been felled and left at stumps from 1-2ft high, all of them have lots of whippy growths and are almost as big again now.

 

Would a a prune back to major limbs be a good option? leaving a few climber supports for later work?

 

I think a management plan would be a good option here.

 

I was thinking removal of the whole hazard beam and then almost a complete removal of foliage and it should see it right?

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I know you dont REALY want to hear this iether but hazard beams and woodpecker holes are prime short stay bat roosts, I would not expect most people to be able to fund such a survey on such a job (one off domestic) lets be realistic!

 

but DO check the beam, the wood pecker holes and be aware of the closure of the hazard beam on any dwelling inside it!

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if you retain the beam limb, then make sure you leave the cut above it well above it so that you dont alter the ingress of water to it, as it stands it will naturaly remain dry and exclude moisture, but make a big cut close to or mid crack and youll see its microclimatic conditions change dramaticaly and for the worse.

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There is a reason a hazard beam doesnt usualy fully fail, this is because the failure actualy decreases the internal stresses. often the branch forms occlusion ribs and goes on to adapt the failure, so removal would not be needed, it would also generate a huge wound in the stem area that will decay badly due to willows poor defences with decay fungi.

 

A 30-40% hard (dropcrotch) prune would be more than sufficient, will keep wounds minimal (compromise as always) and remember, the tree is standing now, fully loaded, removeing the 30-40% of crown bulk will reduce that load so significantly as to render the tree so unstressed structualy that failure within ten years is about as likely as me giving up mycology!:thumbup:

 

Another comment passed by the client was that it creaks in the wind, but that could be any reason, i would imagine it comes fom the hazard beam, but trees have flexibility so it oculd be from the whole thing.

 

Thanks again for you comments hama. I can understand what you mean, with all the load on the tree and its still standing, taking it off will surely make it easier to cope with the load.

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Another comment passed by the client was that it creaks in the wind, but that could be any reason, i would imagine it comes fom the hazard beam, but trees have flexibility so it oculd be from the whole thing.

 

Thanks again for you comments hama. I can understand what you mean, with all the load on the tree and its still standing, taking it off will surely make it easier to cope with the load.

 

Creaking in the wind is pretty normal, i would suggest that there is a rubbing limb somewhere in the crown, remove the weaker of the two that rub and it should cease. The hazard beam is a less likely candidate for creaking (not ruling it out) as they tend to stabalise and stop moving after a year or two.

 

cut out a fresh hazard beam and it will close, do a two growth season one and it stays well open and rigid.

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I did mention the possibility of wildlife including bats which would find a home in such holes. The client didn't believe it but said there were bats in the area and could see them pottering round at night.

 

I would do a severe drop crotch on the limb, leaving the hole and any potential critters well alone. Would a survey climb be a good idea to check it over? Go up with a torch and a camera and take a good peek around?

 

They said they would get other quotes. But I said see if they notice what I notice. I'll push for this work as I think it would be a good management process to go through.

 

do a two growth season one

 

Do you mean by this to reduce the weight over two years?

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I did mention the possibility of wildlife including bats which would find a home in such holes. The client didn't believe it but said there were bats in the area and could see them pottering round at night.

 

I would do a severe drop crotch on the limb, leaving the hole and any potential critters well alone. Would a survey climb be a good idea to check it over? Go up with a torch and a camera and take a good peek around?

 

They said they would get other quotes. But I said see if they notice what I notice. I'll push for this work as I think it would be a good management process to go through.

 

 

 

Do you mean by this to reduce the weight over two years?

 

no i meant a hazard beam thats been stabalised by adaptive growth, after two growth seasons they become stable and rigid, meaning they dont move and remain open when cut out as apposed to being fresh and closing on release from the tree and pressures/stresses.

 

A climbing inspection (summer) is a great way to go, and the right and propper method as you describe, however, you may lose the job pushing this costly side of things. better that a well conscious arb like your good self has a little poke about while doing the job than losing it to an un educated no "inclusive" arb or rather a hacker and stacker.

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