double lanyard set up.

[broadsword]

anyone use a secondary/double lanyard set up on here? for instance when you are removing large near vertical sections and your main anchor point is a long way away [think large black italian poplar!] so you are never dis-connected from the limb/stem when ascending it. any interesting/compact set ups? i sometimes use 9mm friction cord with a ropeman and my main lanyard which consists of 10mm mammut supersafe and a cinch. is there a way of setting your lanyard up so you can use both ends for changeovers?

[ukminch]

I tend to use the climbing line on my main anchor, my lanyard, then use the other end of the line as an additional strop just using another crab and prussik if that makes sense.

 

Don't know if it's the right way but seems to work ok on multi stemmers.

 

R

[broadsword]

I tend to use the climbing line on my main anchor, my lanyard, then use the other end of the line as an additional strop just using another crab and prussik if that makes sense.

 

Don't know if it's the right way but seems to work ok on multi stemmers.

 

R

 

defo nothing wrong with that.

[Stephen Blair]

if it is an open crown or something like you are talking about, i just use a second climbing rope, great for positioning, once you get the hang of where to position it then you can easily get into some usually awkward positions

[charlie]

anyone use a secondary/double lanyard set up on here? for instance when you are removing large near vertical sections and your main anchor point is a long way away [think large black italian poplar!] so you are never dis-connected from the limb/stem when ascending it. any interesting/compact set ups? i sometimes use 9mm friction cord with a ropeman and my main lanyard which consists of 10mm mammut supersafe and a cinch. is there a way of setting your lanyard up so you can use both ends for changeovers?

 

hey broadsword do you use the 9mm friction cord as a strope with the ropeman as a second lanyard?

[Steve Bullman]

use a long lanyard with a krab each end, and a prussik friction hitch, you can then use both ends, clipping and unclipping as you pass branches

[Tony Croft aka hamadryad]

if it is an open crown or something like you are talking about, i just use a second climbing rope, great for positioning, once you get the hang of where to position it then you can easily get into some usually awkward positions

 

I often take a second, albeit shorter rope into a large broad canopied tree, this enables me to leave my main line in the tallest central leader and use the second to descend each (section) of the crown from a high limb givin gme a straight downward angle of approach for long limb walks. as stephen says, it is great for positioning.

 

as a simple second (rope positioning setup when needed I just keep a long tape strop and two crabs on me, this also enables me to use this as a cut and hold tool keeping my hands well away from the saw.

 

this is probably not legit though but it works and is doubley usefull which is always a plus in my book, cant stand wasted wieght and dangles!

[scottythepinetree]

 

as a simple second (rope positioning setup when needed I just keep a long tape strop and two crabs on me, this also enables me to use this as a cut and hold tool keeping my hands well away from the saw.

 

 

I keep a similar tape strop for cut and hold, sometimes give it a bit much though, shock loading so wouldn't use mine for positioning where there is a risk of a long swing should it fail.

 

I keep a second short lanyard (2m distel and pulley) in my bag. Keep it daisy-chained up to keep it out of the way. Not a big fan of extra weight and dangles either so if I can I try getting the bits furthest away done first then get rid of the second lanyard.

 

Can be handy in smaller trees too. Dispense with the main line all together. Nothing bigger than a medium size prunus though.