Ms261c on Aspen issues

[Acerforestry]

The whole situation is a bit of a headache as when i started it last night it kicked over fairly easily and ran for about a minute, I revved her and it then bogged down, cut out.When raising this issue with seller he swears blind saw was running fine when it left him, supported by a video of it running / revving- though that could have been 6 months ago of course. Now that I've put only Aspen in it from the get go, all I can do is drain and revert to E10 and see if it improves. But having to drop start with revs once its warm(which I hadn't mentioned) isn't indicating so much a fuel issue to my mind, more compresssion

No more used saws I think, even 100 per cent seller feedback doesn't guarantee anything

[Muddy42]

2 hours ago, Acerforestry said:

The whole situation is a bit of a headache as when i started it last night it kicked over fairly easily and ran for about a minute, I revved her and it then bogged down, cut out.When raising this issue with seller he swears blind saw was running fine when it left him, supported by a video of it running / revving- though that could have been 6 months ago of course. Now that I've put only Aspen in it from the get go, all I can do is drain and revert to E10 and see if it improves. But having to drop start with revs once its warm(which I hadn't mentioned) isn't indicating so much a fuel issue to my mind, more compresssion

No more used saws I think, even 100 per cent seller feedback doesn't guarantee anything

there could be so many things going on here that need investigating. As every poster has said above, its not about the fuel so dont change back to E10.

 

In order I would:

- you have raised the question of compression. Thats easily checked by hanging the saw from the starter rope (it should hang and only move down slowly) or looking for piston scoring.

- clean saw and take out carb. Bend all the  lines and look to brittleness or cracks.If you are in any doubt (given its been ran on E10 and you intend to use aspen) replace.

- replace fuel filter,  install a carb kit and reset autotune.

- if this doesnt work, you are into the more major stuff of checking for air leaks and replacing the solenoid.

 

autune saws are still relatively simple. The autotune can adjust for an airleak to a certain extent, thats why problems seem to suddenly appear when it reaches the limit of its adjustment. 

[Acerforestry]

23 minutes ago, Muddy42 said:

there could be so many things going on here that need investigating. As every poster has said above, its not about the fuel so dont change back to E10.

 

In order I would:

- you have raised the question of compression. Thats easily checked by hanging the saw from the starter rope (it should hang and only move down slowly) or looking for piston scoring.

- clean saw and take out carb. Bend all the  lines and look to brittleness or cracks.If you are in any doubt (given its been ran on E10 and you intend to use aspen) replace.

- replace fuel filter,  install a carb kit and reset autotune.

- if this doesnt work, you are into the more major stuff of checking for air leaks and replacing the solenoid.

 

autune saws are still relatively simple. The autotune can adjust for an airleak to a certain extent, thats why problems seem to suddenly appear when it reaches the limit of its adjustment. 

Sound advice, thanks. With a used saw of its age it's maybe difficult to gauge what you would call acceptable compression, it doesn't drop straight to the floor for sure (I did this soon after removal from packaging) but i would say i'd prefer a little more resistance. I can add a little video later

[peatff]

I had to adjust the L screw and speed tick over on a couple of my saws when I started using alkylate fuel, never had problems with rubber parts.

[Acerforestry]

Its actually not as bad as I thought, held at shoulder height and released, 6 seconds to reach over a foot off the ground and it stops there. I don't think compression is the issue.