Large betulina pendula

[kram]

This tree is in a relatively small garden and grows over the two neighbouring gardens. At a few meters up it splits into 5 or more stems, I assume it may have been topped when it was young. Its a nice tree but in the wrong place.

I recently suggested to the owner that it is reduced quite hard, 30-50% off the upper canopy but to leave the lower as is.

 

 

Before stepping up into the union I noticed some bare cambium and reaction wood growth? Theres been strong winds recently.

 

In Nov 23' I removed quite a large low branch that was going across to the neighbours. He was aware that large cuts on birch are not ideal. We noticed it did not seem to be callousing and had a brown weep, so I went up to inspect it.

My original cut was not quite to the branch collar but it has been callousing all around hidden under the bark, it was a steeper angle so I trimmed the stub back.

I got a face full of wet vomit-like soft rotting wood chips.

 

If the soft rot progresses I think it will not take long to compromise the 5 way union which is not far above.

I am unsure to suggest complete removal and to replant something else. If it became unsafe to climb, a mewp would not be able to get anywhere close and would need to be a large skylift type that can span 4 gardens from the road, if it could even fit down the road, at greatly increased expense.

 

Should it be removed or reduced and how much?

 

Edited 2 hours ago by kram

[sime42]

I think you've answered your own question. It needs to be taken out ideally.

 

You could at the very least, reduce it heavily, but as said Birches hate being hacked so it'd only be postponing the inevitable. Too big a tree for a small garden anyway. Replace with a Mulberry or a Clerodendrum maybe.

 

 

 

 

[tree-fancier123]

I would be saying that in my opinion decay will spread into the trunk, may be safe for years, decades even, but for reasons you state will be expensive to fell if left till no one wants to climb it.

The top cuts on reductions often rot down inside to form rot pockets a foot deep.

With the limb I would have suggested leaving a 6ft or more stub, contary to arb and BS practice, but that way the rot would take years to reach the trunk. Only on birch. Ash, sycamore etc that cut would probably occlude within say 5 to 7 years.

Birch is diffuse porous v most UK hardwoods that are ring porous. Not a decay expert, but from memory the books do talk about the differences in susceptibility to decay of the two structures

Edited 1 hour ago by tree-fancier123

[kram]

Thanks very helpful replies. Its a beautiful tree and amazing to watch in the wind.

 

Yes birch do seem to have poor barriers to decay.

There is another very old wound further down that goes in quite a way filled with frass/ soil although doesnt seem to have soft rot in the surrounding wood.

 

I imagine I know the answer, but is there any chemical or other treatment to make conditions unfavourable for the soft rot fungus, without also killing the tree?