Help Lawn Tractor PTO/clutch Issues

[GarethM]

5 minutes ago, Muddy42 said:

 

Thanks. I will do clean the clutch if I get the engine running smoothly.

 

I replaced the solanoid two years ago.  Yes, I've shorted the two solanoid terminals and I get the same result.

 

When you say "not a 4 litre Perkins!", are you saying that 310 CCA, should be more than enough?

Its a car battery for a 2 litre engine Vs a 16hp 500cc, so more than enough!.

[Muddy42]

3 minutes ago, GarethM said:

Its a car battery for a 2 litre engine Vs a 16hp 500cc, so more than enough!.

 

OK, thanks. So the mower's battery (at 310CCA) should be enough.  Sounds like its worth cleaning inside the starter motor.  I've never looked at this and the mower must be 35/40 years old. I'm keen to try all the fixes that are free before looking for new parts.

[GarethM]

8 minutes ago, Muddy42 said:

 

OK, thanks. So the mower's battery (at 310CCA) should be enough.  Sounds like its worth cleaning inside the starter motor.  I've never looked at this and the mower must be 35/40 years old. I'm keen to try all the fixes that are free before looking for new parts.

Upto you, like most things it's either mechanical or electrical.

 

It's been a while since I played with a v twin, vague memories of it just being a 12v wire from the solenoid to the starter.

 

You can take it off and fire it up gingerly to see if it's worn/corroded or just lazy.

[Muddy42]

22 minutes ago, GarethM said:

Upto you, like most things it's either mechanical or electrical.

 

It's been a while since I played with a v twin, vague memories of it just being a 12v wire from the solenoid to the starter.

 

You can take it off and fire it up gingerly to see if it's worn/corroded or just lazy.

Yup that's right, thick red wires from the battery to the solanoid and then straight to the starter, earthed via the chassis. Not many connections to go bad.  I can turn the flywheel by hand, so I feel the starter motor should be able to cope.  

[Muddy42]

Been doing some research.  Maybe I can get some more oomph out of the starter motor, but I think there is a high chance the compression release lug has exploded on the camshaft and bits of metal are floating around the sump. This seems to be a fairly common that B&S engines are hard to turn over.

 

My local B&S workshop says replacing the camshaft would be a major job and I should scrap it.  Of course I have the option of DIY, with just the cost of parts and gaskets, but this would be a fairly ambitious undertaking for me!  I suppose if I fail and it ends up as scrap I have only lost the cost of the parts (that's how I normally gear myself up for irrational repairs to old wreaks!)

 

I have contemplated rigging up two batteries in parallel, to achieve the amps required to start it.  I know this works by jumping from the car.  However there is a risk that lumps of metal end up causing a lot of internal damage.

 

[GarethM]

Or just rip it out and fit a newer engine for about £400.

[Muddy42]

3 minutes ago, GarethM said:

Or just rip it out and fit a newer engine for about £400.

 

or more likely second hand from a wreckers yard.

[GarethM]

Something like this, few similar ones.

 

I fitted a single cylinder one once, wasn't pretty but kept it running until I sold it on.

 

Loncin LC2P80F 764cc 19.3HP V-twin Ride on Mower engine Ariens | eBay UK

WWW.EBAY.CO.UK

---

1"x80mm Crank to fit most mowers. Gross power (HP / kW @ RPM). Engine Type 4-Stroke, Vertical Shaft, V-Twin, OHV. Net...

 

 

[Mick Jones]

4 hours ago, GarethM said:

Something like this, few similar ones.

 

I fitted a single cylinder one once, wasn't pretty but kept it running until I sold it on.

 

Loncin LC2P80F 764cc 19.3HP V-twin Ride on Mower engine Ariens | eBay UK

WWW.EBAY.CO.UK

---

1"x80mm Crank to fit most mowers. Gross power (HP / kW @ RPM). Engine Type 4-Stroke, Vertical Shaft, V-Twin, OHV. Net...

 

 

 

4 hours ago, Muddy42 said:

Been doing some research.  Maybe I can get some more oomph out of the starter motor, but I think there is a high chance the compression release lug has exploded on the camshaft and bits of metal are floating around the sump. This seems to be a fairly common that B&S engines are hard to turn over.

 

My local B&S workshop says replacing the camshaft would be a major job and I should scrap it.  Of course I have the option of DIY, with just the cost of parts and gaskets, but this would be a fairly ambitious undertaking for me!  I suppose if I fail and it ends up as scrap I have only lost the cost of the parts (that's how I normally gear myself up for irrational repairs to old wreaks!)

 

I have contemplated rigging up two batteries in parallel, to achieve the amps required to start it.  I know this works by jumping from the car.  However there is a risk that lumps of metal end up causing a lot of internal damage.

 

Have a go yourself. As you say a couple of gaskets, a few parts and the oil if you think it's the compression release cam. If your not paying workshop labour rates and you enjoy doing it go for it. 

Make a note of timing marks etc as you take it apart. It could be your starter, worth trying another one if you have access to a spare to try but it sounds like you have convinced yourself there's bits in your sump so you know you will have to take it apart.😄

[Muddy42]

4 minutes ago, Mick Jones said:

 

Have a go yourself. As you say a couple of gaskets, a few parts and the oil if you think it's the compression release cam. If your not paying workshop labour rates and you enjoy doing it go for it. 

Make a note of timing marks etc as you take it apart. It could be your starter, worth trying another one if you have access to a spare to try but it sounds like you have convinced yourself there's bits in your sump so you know you will have to take it apart.😄

Thanks for the support Mick. I am gearing myself up to just go for it. Lots to learn and nothing to lose apart from elbow/hand grease and the cost of parts.