Cast Ali fan on Timberwolf 150 (year 2000±)

[Hodge]

Get onto Timberwolf tecnichal or call Spectrum Plant and ask Aidy, he's very knowledgeable TW chippers

[dan blocker]

You’ve removed the rotor nose shaft nut. Under that is the washer which should be loose(ish?) butting up against the 1st bearing. That should ease off the thread. There’s a good chance the bearings are goosed and should be replaced anyway and probably the rotor shaft( they’re all relatively cheap to replace so a light tap around the washer/ spacer and it should lift off. Apply some WD 40 or similar to help with any rust or binding. The bearing housing complete with bearings can very often be removed before taking off the cover plate, around the edge of the housing next to the cover plate there are 4 small indents which can be used to pry out the housing. The bearing housing complete with bearings can also come away from the nose shaft as you withdraw the front plate. If your having problems the bearings may be shot and the inner race of the bearings can ware a step on the shaft of the Rotor nose shaft.  I’ve said it’s probably all want replacing so a gentle persuasion with a small gummy or an old wood chisel and hammer may be required. The Spectrum Plant site will show you a exploded parts diagram. Be careful on how much leverage you put on the centre area of the cover plate because there’s not a large amount metal because of the cutouts and it’s easy to distort🤔. The second phot shows the bearing cup and bearing put back on the nose shaft after removing Rotor.

Edited April 7, 2022 by dan blocker
Added info

[cjdg]

Latest on this project.  Flywheel off by removing the collet which cunningly had only two grub allen screws with the third non threaded hole being used to push out the collet.  I remember now why I put two white lines on the used ones - Doh!  Opened up casing to find it well out of shape and cracked.  The option to take out the engine to get at the frame was considered for all of a micro second before being discarded.   Will cut out  bent parts and weld replacement in situ with a complete new "inner" liner of say 5mm steel also welded in on the bottom 30 degree segment and along up to the top of the chute.  

A replacement roller box is well north of £1000 so it looks like some clever reaming and oversize threaded rod to get welded back in but there is not much room in the inside with the roller so cannot use a bolt as originally planned. That means a special two diameter threaded rod one to weld in and one to hold the pump.  

Any other ideas welcome

Chris