Echo 2511 Idle issues...NEED HELP PLEASE

[JayL96]

Hi

 

Had my little echo for a while, and it has started to play up. 

 

It was initially stalling, so I adjusted the carb, and couldn't seem to get it right. Echo tells you to tune by finding the leanest point using the L screw, and then to tune to 4k rpm using the idle screw and then bring the revs down to 3200 by unscrewing the L screw.

 

While doing this using a tachometer, after finding the leanest point, I was unable to get the revs to 4k with the idle screw, it would go down to about 4200, and then drop down to about 3300 a fraction of a turn later. So in then just tuned down to 3200 using the L screw when the revs were at 4200. 

 

After this, the engine would continue to rev high for a few seconds after the throttle was released, which lead me to believe I had an air leak, so I dismantled it, and done a pressure test and it held pressure just fine, and I poured soapy water on all the seals and had no bubbles. 

 

Now I'm at a loss and need advice while I still have the saw apart

 

Thanks

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[nepia]

Not much help with the saw in bits but this may help later

 

[Robin Wood]

Dont chase rpm numbers on tachometer too much, go by ears. Numbers might vary with altitude and weather, what you described sounds like L is leaner than it should be. Forget about numbers and richen L and test

[Echo]

Screw the high needle out a turn, then go to the low and get it where your not

happy with the throttle response, its a bit slow an not as zippy as you like,

don't try and hold the throttle expecting or allowing the high to help, you need to get the

saw to rev up / respond using the low first, so when your at the point the low is almost

as you would like it you wont have far to go to get it right, take it out a 1/16 at

a time until your happy,  make sure you allowed the saw to warm up first before

screwing at the carb, also let the nose of the saw drop towards the ground quickly

and listen for a change in engine tune, if its too rich it will dull down in tone, if it does

screw it in a little bit, rev it a time or two, let idle, and dump the bar tip towards the ground again,

if no change in engine note / speed, and your idle is ok, no chain spin but good throttle response,

then you are close on the low side, adjusting the low out will bring idle down, and in will let it creep up again,

just keep that in mind as you adjust the low you will vary the idle a bit and may need to revisit the idle screw.

 

When your happy with low response and idle, then screw the high needle out until your

four stroking when you go for full throttle and hold it for a second or two.

You should be pretty close at this point, remember that you will find a spot in the throttle

response as you come from low to high needle, where there will be a kick of power as you gradually

pull the throttle slowly from low to full throttle, not a dull spot between low and full throttle, you want a gradual progression or a little kick, you probably wont notice the kick in normal use but you may when you slowly go from low to full throttle.

 

When you have a nice four stroking sound listen to the saw as you come off four stroking,

it may die a little as it goes to idle and come right back to idle fine, this dip is a sign of a little

too much fuel on the high needle, but its safer to have the saw four stroking a little strong and

the excess fuel coming from high to idle dipping the saws engine note, you can work that out

a shade at a time, ensuring your still four stroking.

 

Don't try and set the carb perfect until your cutting wood, its a balancing act, it takes fuel

to produce power, some people think leaning out a saw creates more power, be careful with that, 

you will certainly get more speed, but that's not power.

EDIT, make sure the fuel and air filter is clean, and the spark screen is clean, and your fuel tank

is half to 3/4 full.

Also note, you could have the saw well tuned with it nice and warm, and fail to run when started from cold, it starts but dies when you come off high idle, simply adjust the idle up if this happens, it usually does not happen if your settings are good, but it can do, if so before moving all your settings, turn up the idle a little, and see if you get started and running, and when warm tweak your settings a little to get the result you want.

Edited February 13, 2021 by Echo

[Echo]

Check if your throttle linkage is binding up on anything, also is the carb good,

cleaned and free from dirt or water, is your fuel good.

Did you take off the muffler and look at the condition of the cylinder, rings, and piston,

you should be able to see quite a lot through the exhaust port when the muffler is off,

just to be sure there is no damage in there.

[JayL96]

Firstly thank you for all the help, I've cleaned out the carb, and put the saw back together, and worked on fine tuning using your instructions. I think I've got the saw running nice, but will only know for sure after a good days use.

 

The piston rings and position it's self seem good, no scoring etc. 

 

Thanks for the help guys 👍

[JayL96]

I've adjusted the saw so it idles nicely, and revs up and also comes down nicely as well. 

 

The only issue now is that the saw bogs down when I pull the trigger. This only seems to be when the saw has come fully down to idle speed, about 20-40 seconds or so after cutting. 

 

Spent a long time fiddling with the adjustment and couldn't seem to solve this without having a very high idle. 

 

Thanks 

 

 

[Echo]

Something is not right, the carb needs to be in good clean condition and no fuel

line or filter problems, same with air filter, did the carb get a full kit recently.

[Echo]

The ilde keeps the saw running, no way you would need it set high just to

keep a saw that was close to being set right with the low and high running.

Did you watch the video linked, it clears up any misinterpretations given

in the echo carb adjustment manual.

[JayL96]

Hi 

 

No I haven't watched the video, but I'll take a look at it, the saw is fairly new, and I've taken it apart and cleaned the carb. Any advice on how to properly check the fuel lines and filters? 

 

I forgot to mention that the when I first pull the trigger from idle it bogs down a bit, but then picks up and works fine. It's after it's gone back down fully to its idle it does this. I know I shouldn't be going off tach readings but the idle speed is around 3200-3220. 

 

I've got a new spark plug for it, would it be worth replacing it? Or could it be an issue with the clutch and chain as it seems it's sticking a bit until it revs up...