McCullough Blower Catalytic Converter?

[Haironyourchest]

I bought a McCullough GBV325 hand held Blower, cheap enough, good enough for my needs. Wouldnt run out of the box, I had to contrive a tool out of a channel pin anchor to adjust the "tamper resistant" carb screws!! Now it runs fine, but there's a burning plastic smell which I gather is the catalytic converter kicking in....just wondering if I remove the cat, will it be OK for the motor - the back pressure and that. Also are they worth anything? I know crims apparently steal the cats from under cars because of the platinum in them.

[spudulike]

Not done one of these but.....it will be noisier, just make sure the carb H screw is adjusted to accommodate the missing CAT. Is it worth anything - you are having a laugh:001_rolleyes:

 

Setting the H screw....rev the unit flat out, unscrew the H screw until the unit sounds like it is slowing down significantly, screw the H screw back in until it sounds clean again and then back out until it is a little slower and has a slight sound of four stroke/rasp/thumping in the note. Run it for a few days, check the plug electrodes are a brown colour - a dark ginger through to coffee colour is OK, white is BAD and graphite grey is an expensive repair:thumbdown:

 

You will of course, get more performance without it:thumbup:

[Haironyourchest]

Thank's, Spud!

[GardenKit]

I have to disagree slightly with this tuning procedure. Whilst it is spot on for saws which are tuned at WOT with no load, its not right for a blower which is under full load all the time its running.

 

The saw is tuned a little rich under no load, it then leans out and runs clean in the cut.

 

So the blower should be tuned exactly as Spud describes, but then just leaned back slightly to run 'clean' again. Otherwise full revs and performance will be compromised.

 

Sorry to be critical

[spudulike]

I have to disagree slightly with this tuning procedure. Whilst it is spot on for saws which are tuned at WOT with no load, its not right for a blower which is under full load all the time its running.

 

The saw is tuned a little rich under no load, it then leans out and runs clean in the cut.

 

So the blower should be tuned exactly as Spud describes, but then just leaned back slightly to run 'clean' again. Otherwise full revs and performance will be compromised.

 

Sorry to be critical

 

You or I would do that Barrie, I just didn't want the untrained fella to lean out his blower thinking he was a tuning God only to seize it later as he had gone too far.

 

Just erring on the safe side....even my ported blower has a slight four stroke buzz every now and then:thumbup:

What is he like:lol: