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Posted

Hey guys just wondering if anyone had any advice or tips on first thinnings. I get payed by the ton and i want to know a fast way to get the trees down and sned up and logged out at 2.9. Is there a routine as in is it easyer to knock them down then come back and sned then and log them after your done or :confused1: i havent done much of this type of work before

 

cheers

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Posted
Hey guys just wondering if anyone had any advice or tips on first thinnings. I get payed by the ton and i want to know a fast way to get the trees down and sned up and logged out at 2.9. Is there a routine as in is it easyer to knock them down then come back and sned then and log them after your done or :confused1: i havent done much of this type of work before

 

cheers

 

The question is: do you have necessary machinery to do the task in hand ? i.e harvester, timber jack? tractor with winch, forwarder? or are you thinking of doing manually? machinery is the way forward if you want to be hyper productive. all the best mate, regards western:thumbup1:

Posted

Cheers for getting back to me western m8. Na the guy thats contracting works for the duke of roxburgh and no machines aloud m8 got to be done by hand aka chainsaw/ cankbar/Lifting tongs/Hard Graft . Any suggestions

Posted

Unfortunatley in first thinnings and by hand there's no easy way - you're going to have to sned like you've never snedded before if you want to make it pay.

 

If they're lightly branched hardwood and you're rack thinning then felling two at a time and snedding them together might work occasionally but generally it's just easier to do one at a time and stack as you go or you'll end up burying it in brash.

 

If you're new to it, get the technique and speed will follow - if you go at it too hard without thinking you'll be making mre work for yourself.

Posted

cut your rack first, fell one tree at a time if it hangs up get your shoulder under it and run like hell forwards untill it is down stick your logging tape into the butt end and sned up the tree as far as you can reach cross cutting your 2-9s as you go then work back down the tree turning each length to get the bit underneath stack to the side of the rack starting with the heavy bit so you are moving it smallest distance . then go back and herring bone fell the sides into your rack stacking on the nearest heap this also gives the forwarder plenty hag to drive on if the ground is soft if stacking for a skyline make sure there is a space undereath or the chokerman will call you names you have never heard yet!!!!!

Posted
if stacking for a skyline make sure there is a space undereath or the chokerman will call you names you have never heard yet!!!!!

 

 

Same goes for stacking neatly for a forwarder - a bit of tapping the ends up is fine but if you;re stack look like the sticks have been thrown on then expect a bulling!

Posted
cut your rack first, fell one tree at a time if it hangs up get your shoulder under it and run like hell forwards untill it is down stick your logging tape into the butt end and sned up the tree as far as you can reach cross cutting your 2-9s as you go then work back down the tree turning each length to get the bit underneath stack to the side of the rack starting with the heavy bit so you are moving it smallest distance . then go back and herring bone fell the sides into your rack stacking on the nearest heap this also gives the forwarder plenty hag to drive on if the ground is soft if stacking for a skyline make sure there is a space undereath or the chokerman will call you names you have never heard yet!!!!!

 

This is very sound advice, and I would do very much the same. There's no easy way, its going to be blood, sweet and tiers. Have you got a tufor or lugal hand winch if not get one. Just out of interest mate, how big is the standing timber tone wise?

Posted

£ss hard to find ok from memory when I was at it 30p per 3 meter length 2 or three sometimes 4 per tree so a lot of trees for a ton!! 30 x 3m on average I think

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