jimug

It'll be one of thousands of domestic apple species.. look again once the fruit is mature

Check Grey Willow, Salix atrocinerea in your book. Also - you might find the phone app of Pl@ntNet identify IDENTIFY.PLANTNET.ORG Pl@ntNet is a tool to help to identify plants with pictures. useful

I'd vote whitebeam over viburnum. I'd even say defo not viburnum. What colour are the underside of the leaves?

I'd say Ash species at a glance..

and the second reply reads exactly like it came out of chatgpt

I expect the answer is no, given the distribution of it, but, Is there any chance these rings have been left damp and in contact with a dissimilar metal causing galvanic corrosion? The corrosion looks just like it does when I left a caving rack sitting damp with steel krabs for a while... Can't imagine a situation that would cause it like that though, chains don't cause a load of microscopic steel particles to get embedded in everything do they?

Understood.. before I started on all this I didn't know how a chainsaw clutch worked so it's been useful in understanding that.. but - I'm talking specifically about how to get that old spring off the assembly as pictured. So I'm assuming the if view was directly viewed from above, looking directly down into the bit with the threaded hole in it - that pushes away from the viewer, so the two bits that move can come off it completely allowing the spring to come off the grooves it sits in on them, and the new one goes on, slide the two moving bits onto the threaded bit and done... it all looks really self explanatory now I've put all the bits of advice together but I didn't fancy breaking it. I'll give it a go.

I found very little on youtube but plenty of the clutches for the bigger and pro saws like you linked.. The 135 clutch looks like this, and my reference to sliding apart was confirmed, that middle bit must push out from the side pictured (spring is held in place by two 'fins' tother side so won't just pull off)

All makes sense. Not suggesting I'd in any way 'fix' the existing spring - I have a new one so may as well fit it. Just couldn't quite see how, but if it's as easy as pushing the middle out I will just go belt and braces. (what I was alluding to was assuming the existing spring looked OK, just checking the oil drive, but I think I'll do both while I'm at it)

Had the clutch off the saw yesterday, and the spring looks fine to me - but I couldn't see how I'd manage to take it off. Does the clutch slide apart? Whilst I'm at it I'll look at the oil pump drive but would like to see the spring in its relaxed form too while I'm at it

@spudulike @gand I don't think it's an OEM cylinder, no markings on it and it has a cooling fin cut off so assume it's an 036 one. Given that and the cost of an aftermarket kit I may use the old cylinder to have a go at cleaning it up, but put a new one on anyway - but definitely note that I'll need to pressure / vac test @Stubby. I think I know what to do there and plan to use a bit of inner tube behind the exhaust gasket to seal that end. At minimum I'll need a new cylinder gasket as that was in bits when the cylinder came off. Piston wise as well as fairly deep scoring (way deeper than just being able to feel it with my thumb nail) it looks like the rings are mashed into the grooves So far treating it as a learning exercise. I'd rather have this saw in bits than start messing with my 135 that works fine and would rather it stays that way (notwithstanding I now have a clutch spring to fit as per other helpful advice), but as and when it needs work hopefully I'll have an idea what I'm looking at. Thanks for all the input so far!

Hello! Following some good advice from @spudulike @adw and @Stubby to not bother doing anything with a Husq 340 just because it was cheap, I failed the weakness test and got hold of an 034 because it was 'really' cheap and didn't 'look' in bad nick at all. Was hoping it'd be a shot fuel line or similar. It's a piston scored on the exhaust side only, and a small amount of transfer inside the cylinder (to my eyes anyway, I had never seen inside one until I looked at this one)... plan is to put an aftermarket cylinder and piston on it, and possibly the crankshaft oil seals since they come with the kit, and see how it goes. If I learn something about chainsaws and engines as a result I'll be happy...

Thanks @adw @spudulike - the clam aspect would explain why the US posts I read talk about needing the cylinder base too. Just need to find a suitably good nick pro saw for the right money instead. Patience has never been a virtue of mine unfortunately

Thanks @Stubby I felt like I’d answered my own question while I was asking it tbh but I’m a nightmare for buying cheap and then spending just as much fixing things or just ending up buying what I should have in the first place. this is very much a case of want vs really need, hence trying to go cheap. I’ll save up!

I’ve seen a 340 that looks to be hardly used and runs well etc at decent money (150), and want a more capable saw than my 135. It’s still only for dealing with fallen limbs etc at the cave I look after, but after a morning clearing up a fairly sizeable ash today I felt like a longer bar than 14” would have been good for the main stem (which I left for now) and generally a bit more grunt/speed would have been nice. so a couple of questions, a: is the 340 worth a look and b: is the 346 top end mod fairly straightforward and worthwhile? When my mate came to do the climbing / felling at the weekend he managed fine with an MS261 so maybe I should hold out for one of those rather than risk spending whatever one would cost used trying to modify a saw that isn’t ideal in the first place?