Elliott.F
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Everything posted by Elliott.F
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Damn, yes didn’t think of that. Cheers. That’s 12 saws I need now then.
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I’ve read a lot of good stuff about eucalyptus and I believe it’s btu rating is even higher than oak, but I have a couple of reservations about planting it, they being the field I’m thinking of using is in a valley bottom, so can get frosty and it has zero value to wildlife here. I know there are frost hardy varieties, but the frosts in that field can get pretty hard.
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That’s basically exactly where I’m thinking of going. 550 with 15” for most things, then a 572 with 24” for larger trees and firewood. Cheers.
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I’m using a 550xp at the moment with 18” bar, but I think you’re right about needing 2 saws. I’m currently thinking of a 572 with 24” bar for firewood and the bigger trees and then sticking a 15” bar on the 550 for everything else.
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I thought a 24” bar on a 50cc might be pushing it especially if cutting oak with the full bar. Is skip link different to skip tooth? But yes, it’s looking like I might need 2 saws to cover what I’m doing.
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Yeah I’m thinking 4 saws to cover all the bases, then at least one back up for each saw, that makes 8 saws, then a couple of spares to round it up to 10 saws. That should just about be enough.
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Ah yes poplar. Never actually had any of that, but thought it was pretty good firewood if split and stacked early as you said. I was thinking of planting some for short rotation coppice because of the high yields.
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Mostly cutting up to around 16” with the occasional larger tree, coppicing, all the processing of those trees and firewood. I think I’d prefer a longer bar for doing my firewood, say 24”, but I’m guessing I’d need some thing around 70cc to run that. It looks like 50/60cc with 18” bar would be the compromise.
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I’m doing quite a range of things. Felling up to around 16” and have one or two much bigger oaks and ash, coppicing hazel and alder, all the processing of those trees, clambering around in dense unmanaged hedge banks, making firewood, etc. I should probably have a couple of saws really 😅
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Seems like it’s best to split and stack all of those softer hardwoods like birch, alder and sycamore as soon as possible after cutting or they decline rapidly in quality, especially birch because of what you say. I love lighting fires with birch bark, used as a tinder or kindling. Awesome stuff and lasts for years if kept dry.
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How do you get a uniform length on the rings if cutting by hand ?
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For all round use (except climbing), what bar length and engine size is generally considered the best. Interested in what your thoughts are on this?
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Interesting. Cheers.
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I didn’t know that about silver birch. I’ve always thought it was an excellent firewood, but didn’t know how easy it can go mouldy if you just chuck it in a vented bag.
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That’s great thanks 👍
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When Roundwood is sold as processor grade, aside from being reasonably straight, what is the usual range for diameter? I’m guessing from around 5” to 12”? Also, just want to say, as a relative newby I’m learning tons from this website, so thanks for your expertise and advice:)
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I’m a big fan of nicely coppiced hazel, lovely wood to burn. By Mac do you mean macrocarpa? I didn’t know that was good firewood.
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I do like thorn for their heat, but they’re not pleasant to cut and process, especially if they’re growing densely together. They do split quite easily though. Lastly, they’re also pretty small, blackthorn particularly, so you don’t get that much out of them and their branches are usually too small and gnarly to bother with.
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Never tried that. Is there much about where you are? Can’t say I’ve ever seen much in my neck of the woods.
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Are you saying you would rather not have oak? If so, what’s the reason?
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I’d love to get my hands on some hornbeam. I thought it was tough to split though because of the way the grain seems to to twist.
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I’m sure this has been asked before, but what would your favourite firewood be if you included every aspect of the process from felling, processing, splitting, drying and burning it (as I’m sure many of you do).
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Ah yes I see your point. Double handling should definitely be avoided. I built my shed with that in mind. It has no sides, and I can put of couple of 4m roofing sheets on the top for winter. Holds just over 10 cube and once it’s stacked in there it will stay there until I use it. This pic is from earlier in the year without the roofing sheets.
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I think you’ve nailed it.
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I don’t think the scale is relevant. If you could get wood dry outside without any kind of roof, why waste shed space filling it with firewood whether it’s tractor loaded IBC’s in a barn or hand stacked in a shed. I think the consensus is you can get it to 20% or below outside, but come winter it’s not going to need covering if you want to keep it at 20%
