Trailoftears

Another thing to consider with mntronic saws and the husky equivalent, is that there seems to be a tendency as soon as you get performance issues to immediately to blame the newish tech.Its probably worth keeping at the back of your mind that they also are subject to the ailments/issues of convential saws that we've all at some point encountered (leading to banging heads against walls,/swearing to never buy this brand again)etc,etc!

I dont think you need to fiddle with carb.I believe its just a matter of unclipping the solenoids wiring connection.Then loosen a screw holding the solenoid in place.Refit the solenoid,with I believe the tiniest bit of lube on the o ring and thats it.Better not to completely remove the screw in case it falls into the innards.Access to the screw isnt great,also change the fuel filter with the new orange model.But you will probably still need to reset the saw afterwards.I believe the calibration technique depends on the mtronic version of your saw.It may be on the r.hand side of the label on your chain brake gaurd in teeny letters.

Ahaa!I nearly bought one today,but due to an seller issue couldnt complete.Dare I ask how much inc.postage please?

I have to say the stihl battery system(s)/choices are as clear as mud!But roll on the battery revolution,its all good for both customers and us wage slaves!Although the decibel levels are MUCH better than the 2/ machines-technically,you should still be using ear protection,tho I'm thinking thats m/cs that you hold in proximity to your ears-hand-held hdge trimmers and so on.

Cheers,the chains I have,no shortage of stihl chains at all,and I have nothing bad to say about rotatech chains,I buy them in pairs for my ms180-possibly they stretch a bit when new.But I'd like a quality bar to go with the stihl chains.The light 04 is not happening till nxt feb.Sugihara lights are equally rare.Weird and disconcerting given its hardly an obscure length bar.I'm guessing its the 1.3mm gauge thats the difficult bit.....

As to the basics of personal protection-sturdy boots with toe protection-s3 type, cofra are good,you dont need big clunky steel toecaps anymore thankfully,most leightweights come with plastic toecaps-much better.Trousers or 'chaps',If you go trousers,pay a bit more and get the lightest you can afford-or you'll be sweating like a tied-up donkey in a sauna,particularly in the summer!Helmet with visor+ear defenders+glasses underneath visor-oily sawdust will find your eyes under a visor on a windy day-no fun at all for the remainder of your day.Chainsaw gloves-2 choices,big clunky gauntlet type/or smaller arborist type-a bit more dextrous.Also,I recommend arm shields with kevlar too.As to gloves/trousers go for class 1 as a newbie-both hands have cut protection.As to helmets/visors-pay a tad more and go for etched steel as opposed to a plastic or poycarbonate visor.You could go for chainsaw wellies to protect your feet,but you will move like frankenstein and carry more sawdust in the house than your wife will stand for=divorce.

So no chance of an 18" husky bar with the right stats fitting a ms261 then?

I notice husky do appropriate 18" bars with the correct pitch and gauge-.325/1.3mm which is v.exciting,but will I be caught out by the bar mounting conundrum? 🤔

Absolutely.If available,take a short sharp! Course on basic maintenance,ppe,safety gear etc.Time more than well spent.

I'm personally disappointed by the weight penalty with a lot of battery saws too.I expect something lighter not heavier!One of my clients proudly showed me his new Milwaukee battery saw tuther day with a 20v battery on board-WHAT a pig (the saw-not him!),heavy as feck with one of those weird big tranverse mid motors last seen on electric saws 20 years ago......

You could admittedly go for state of the art stihl-msa 300+2 ap500 batts+charger.I'd be interested to see a quote for that kit.

Also either via battery you still nead to learn about tensioning/cleaning, maintenance and so on.

Not via the makita 36v route he doesn't.

So much for gayways,bar in stock.So ordered-£49.00-a tad steep,8.95 delivery!V.steep.....All goes quiet for a bit,email today,so sorry,but wont have bar till feb 23,would you like to lock into this price till then?Methinks not...🙄

No worries mate,as I complained about in my earlier post, I'm deeply suspicious that there's any such thing as a standard rollomatic 18" bar with .325/1.3mm gauge!Could be wrong tho......

If price is not too much of an issue,I would look at the smallest stihl pro saw-the ms241 c-m.semi-computerised tuning,so no sobbing over carb adjustments etc.A lot less money would buy something like the stihl ms231/251-but not the same quality as the ms241 c-m.Your choice should be also be influenced by the dealers in your locality.If there's a husky dealer close to you,go that way.May well pay you to go and have a chat with whichever brand dealer is nearby and explain your wants etc.Some of the battery saws would suit-makita do a good 36 volt 16"saw.Bear in mind the costs of setting up yourself re: battery saws is v.heavy-bare tool+double rapid charger+say,4 batteries.For what you will spend on all the battery infrastructure,you will find you can buy a decent petrol saw.

Not sure your in the market for 2nd hand-or in the uk,but this looks ok? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325415403053?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=JVkHacdbR62&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=ddOCF9S7QRK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=MORE

Thanks@slack ma girdle. Thats vaguely encouraging,also thats a really good point about the danger of brush/past danger of falling branches in a densely populated area-just like the ex railway line I'm involved with.

Where I am-west Wales,it seems to be racing thru valley bottoms/riverbanks more quickly than some of the elevated heights.Also,looking at grand old matriachs at say 300 yrs +,you can see its there,but not hugely noticeable to the layman possibly.But,young striplings of say 35 yr+ look shocking and are getting hammered really fast.I'm really concerned where big uns overlook clients drives and try to explain it only takes 1 10" major branch falling 20/30 ft to crush their car/kill them.Also I manage 800 mtres of an old railway line-shut down via the beeching cuts back in the day,which borders a country lane/cycle track.Whilst the ash are relative youngsters and fairly straight grown trees,it becomes obvious the whole length is doomed.Tragic really,one of those valuable wildlife corridors.There deffo seems to be a 'head in the sand attitude' with most of my clients.Leaving aside the tragedy of the landscape implications,it strikes me these trees will cause accidents, kill,maim people over the next 10 odd years.

Apologies if this has been covered before.As a general landscaper/manager of several rural properties,our local district is awash with dying/diseased Ash populations.Whilst the external symptoms are all too painfully obvious.What I'd like to understand better is from a safe felling point of view is how it progresses re: the heartwood with regards in particular for how long do they maintain live tissue in the felling hinge before they become unpredictable to fell.I'm thinking-and urging customers,that once the individual is obviously doomed its better to get on with it asap.But I have no evidence to back that up frankly.

Bizarrely, just doing a kindness to an old sycamore by nipping off the ivy stems with a little battery chsaw,I-more by luck than judgement,spotted a horses shoe hammered in to 3/4 of its depth-at an angle too.Why?I can only guess as its at the entrance to an ex farmhouse,it must have been some sort of pagan good luck to all that enter our property thing?-nearly brought me the opposite of good luck 😳

I DO love a tree which has had stock fencing stapled to it 20 odd years ago.And another scary item is the much beloved old tree in a garden that has had dozens of nails hammered into it by now long grown-up children. 😤

Forgot to mention large metal wheel with twin bearings and PROPER rubber tyres!

The sarp/Kaaz mowers are astonishingly good,dare I say close to unbreakable,available with both honda gx engins plus kawis too.They are rebadged by loads of manufactures usually as their pro mowers-Danarm/lawnflite/kubota etc.blade/brake clutch,Direct drive,2 speed or variable speed,a REALLY thick alloy deck with stonegaurds,dustproof collection bags+usually fan-assisted collection etc,etc.Always made in Japan.Heavy beasts but built like brick sh*thouses!Forever mowers.

As to the shed of shame-its not as erotic as its sounds sadly.But then again if partly dissembled honda hr194 vintage mowers,disgraced briggs and stratton 'engines' etc are your sort of gig,its a happening sort of place!