Tony Mac

You've forced to me to revise my mental picture of you!

There are LADIES on the forum?!

Thinking of changing my forum name to Waxy Residue 🤔

You stole the words right out of my mouth! I'm all for paraffin wax evaporating into the ether (as is my scientific understanding) but mini babybel red wax all over my grate?! Surely not!

🙉

You said get the ones I liked! It's YOUR fault! 😉

I've bought these. (Cue everyone saying 'no, you shouldn't have bought THOSE ones....!' 😂

Well, I don't know which ones I like, as I've never used them! 😜

I think it's because after a year of just using my instincts on this stove, I've finally found out about some of its features and how it works (thanks to posters on here I should add), so now I'm trying to do things 'properly'. I've never used firelighters before, I've just been screwing up newspaper and lighting that, but free newspapers are getting harder to find, so thought I should switch to firelighters... and here we are!

Ahh! Thanks for clarifying that for me! 👍

I must say I never knew this is what happened! Shocking (and depressing) info.

Do you mean milk carton? In any case.... 😳

Can anyone recommend a good brand of firelighters to use with a log burner? I've seen some of them are coated in wax which makes me think they will leave a waxy residue behind. Any suggestions of good value, effective, firelighters appreciated!

Thanks for your reply openspaceman! Thanks to your advice I have found that the ash pan is not sealing properly. The handle to open and close it is stiff and I'm not able to open and close it effectively. This is another issue I now need to solve!

Hello. Getting to grips with an old Scan Andersen wood burner. I've successfully replaced the door rope seal, but researching this has lead me to more questions! One thing I'm not sure of is how the ignition air vent works. I don't know how to let more air in/restrict air flow. The manual I found says to 'open' the ignition vent until the wood is burning well. But which position is open and which is closed?! The manual doesn't say and the diagram (pic attached just gives a double sided arrow! I've tried turning it different ways once I've started a fire but haven't noticed much difference to be honest! I'm sure I'm being very thick but would appreciate your opinion! Pics of the air vent knob and manual attached! With air vent pics I've taken, one pic shows the knob turned so that the opening is at the top and the other pic shows the opening at the bottom. Thanks in advance! Tony

Thanks Spudulike, but I have now replaced the rope seal without removing the door. It went well, with the help of my good lady wife, who held it (the rope!) in place while I fed it into the groove (on the door!). My only concern is that it was a bit of a struggle to close the door with the new rope, and I had - and have still - a slight worry that the rope I bought is too fat. It was 10mm which was the smallest I could get from this particular online shop, but I have subsequently seen that I could've got one 7mm in diameter. I've closed the door and I'm hoping that the rope will crush and flatten down under pressure enough to make future closing less difficult. What do you reckon?

Yes, I think this is what I'm going to do.

If I have no luck loosening this pin, I will go down the route of keeping the door where it is and glueing the rope seal in with it upright. Cheers for your reply. 👍

👍

Thanks NoPedigree - you're right, no grub screw under the top hinge. I would say (guess) the pin is mushroom headed. It's got a flat top anyway. Been trying to wedge a screwdriver under it to lift it off but it's not budging so far. It's got quite a smooth round head, so little to grip onto to turn or lift it. Masking tape idea is a good one to hold rope in place if I can't get the door off! Cheers again! 👍

Update: I have removed the grub screw with an Allen key. Still can't loosen the pin though. I'll wait and see if the WD40 takes effect.... Thanks again for all your replies guys! Tony

I think I'm beginning to understand - I need to stick an Allen key into that hole and loosen the grub screw, am I right?

Apologies for my general ignorance but... Is the grub screw in that hole beneath the hinge pin? Do I need to do something with this first to loosen the pin? Do I need to be sticking something into this hole? Cheers in advance!

Thanks for your replies, woodworks, nopedigree and spudulike! I attach a picture of the top hinge. It might be hard to see the detail of the bolt at the bottom but it's quite smooth and round, with no discernible means to unscrew it. I have given it a blast of WD40 as per recommendation. I'm actually considering trying to glue in a new rope seal without removing the door! Recipe for disaster...?!

Thanks spudulike, will bear that in mind in future 👍