matt padden

Hard to tell exactly what type of tree it is but looks like a Lawson cypress. It's definitely looking sparse on top but looking at the second photo it seems to be yellowing at the bottom, so could be too much water or iron deficiency or something else stressing it out. I doubt any remedial work will turn the tide. I'd take it down to the height of the rest of the hedge, as you've nothing to lose and it maintains a screen. If it continues to die-off take it out completely then.

I bought one a year or so ago. It's a bit gimmicky but I thought it might be easier than a silky. If it had an attachment point for a lanyard it would be more useful and I've never gotten around to bodging something together. It's handy by the chipper for the odd branch that needs snedding, but I bought a little Echo since and haven't looked back. The new version gta 40 is around the £250 mark and I'd put that money towards an Echo CS2511TESC for what it's worth.

I'd want to see a surveyor's report before any work started confirming the tree roots are the cause - specifically that the tree roots are from your trees and not the tree your neighbours are keeping (I assume that's the one in the first photo - an Atlas Cedar). I'd take photo's and list all the plants you're worried about that might get wrecked when the trees are taken out. Speak to your neighbours insurance about compensation before work starts. Likewise with the fence. I think you're more likely to be heard before the work is done.

I usually get bits from L&S engineers. I need to replace the screws on the carb or get a new carb but L&S have been out of stock for some time and can't get a date off them when they're likely to get new stock in. Who else do people use for the little bits and bobs. Thanks View full article

Giant broccoli.

Many thanks!

Just got hold of a new Husqvarna. 560 mk11. Started okay but primer bulb didn't fill with fuel and it's run without it filling with fuel. Is this some new fandangled primer bulb or is it about to bite me on the arse?

I'd go for a Broad -leaf Cockspur Thorn (Crataegus persimilis 'prunifolia') - ticks all your boxes and will do very well on Herefordshire clay. That looks like Ash farm in Much Birch? If it is I'm not stalking you - we used to live opposite.

With a job like that I think it depends how busy you are. Have you got the time to do it on your own if you need up to 10 days to do it? It looks like a nice no-drama job, so I'd happily do it on my own. If you're reasonably busy get a groundy in at least. Often these sort of jobs don't take as long to do as you think on your own, but price it on the safe side. I wouldn't be worrying about finding them a cheaper/ better way to do the job. That's on the homeowner. If you're happy to do the job on your own give them a price and leave it at that.

Korean Fir is probably you're best bet for a typical garden, if a Fir is what you're after,

Partager la pétition. · Save The Darwin Oak · Change.org WWW.CHANGE.ORG If anyone is interested - just posting this petition if anyone wants to add their name to it

I had to submit a planting plan when we did our place which is grade2. As far as I remember when talking to planning at the time they want to see a plan to see that what you're planning generally fits the surroundings - in terms of general landscaping. As far as the trees went nobody has ever been back to check they even got planted. They could have been planted and failed. It certainly wasn't an issue when it came to getting the place signed off. Gardens naturally evolve so how long does the original plan count? Unless you decide to plant a row of leylandii 2ft from your neighbours or an Oak by the conservatory I don't imagine anyone's bothered.

Since leaving Europe does all climbing equipment have to be CE marked for LOLER or are other internationally approved standards acceptable? Looking at getting a replacement Weaver harness from the US which would be approved there but are no longer sold here (apparently because the market was no longer big enough for them to bother), so haven't been available with a CE mark for years.

Don't bother with an outboard cut if free-falling timber - pretty much always grabs the saw because the bar/chain end up in the kerf of the wood being cut off. Inboard or level with the first cut to avoid it. If you're hand-holding the wood you could use an inboard or outboard cut if you make the cuts on the side of the timber rather than top and bottom, as it will hold better but this is more for shorter sections rather than entire branch. Face-cuts help with direction and or a more gradual break. If you don't need to worry about the finish you can just back cut and let the fibres act like a hinge.