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Paddy1000111

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Posts posted by Paddy1000111

  1. 1 hour ago, Craig. said:

    A basic option would be a pressure reading off the tipper ram, not so accurate, and needing a uniform load each time ( a heavy weight at the back would have less pressure than if it was at the front), larger trucks have weight cells under the tipper pivots and ram mounts, never seen them on a 3500kg, guessing due to the size, weight, and cost of them, axle weigher measure the deflection in springs/air pressure/ gap chassis to axle, usually calibrated by the installer, but can give a reading for load and axle weights in kgs.

    If you have a weigher fitted, and got a bit carried away loading, and happened to get stopped, you have got no excuses.

    A cheap idea, is measure from deck/wheel arches to the ground/ centre of wheels with know weights on, to give you an idea (waste of time with HD suspension/air). 

    That's what I was thinking with the hyd px reading. Realistically if I got stopped and was 20% over I would get charged £300 for it be it knowingly over or not. I feel like having the ability to know would be better. Plus having the ability to know the front/rear loading and adjusting as necessary would be good too. takes two minutes to rake some chippings flat. Especially as fines are now based on axle loading not overall vehicle rate. When they pull you into a weighbridge they do each individual axle so if you are under 3.5 tonnes but you chucked a load of logs in the back and go over the axle rating then you can be charged.  

  2. I guess that's where modern competition comes in. You used to have a 130cc engine that weighed about 25kg and could put out about 5hp. It was slow running, large tolerances and wasn't really "pushed" doing the work. Now we have 120cc saws that weigh 10kg and put out nearly 9hp. They have super high revving engines, really tight manufacturing tolerances and because of the emissions regulations they have to be super picky on fuel not just to meet regs but to be more efficient than the competition as numbers on paper sells saws now, not the name. No longer does a company have loyalty to a company or product but rather a purchasing department takes over and buys what's best on paper (and what company supplies the best doughnuts during a demo)

    • Like 3
  3. 15 minutes ago, Stubby said:

    But he says it octagonal , seen a pic .

    Ahh crap, wrong one... Sorry! The carburettors with it:

    • C1M-232
    • C1M-206
    • C1M-151
    • C1M-289

    But I can't find the tools listed for those. Personally I would pull the limit caps off and put a slot in them with a thin dremel disc 

  4. 55 minutes ago, TheMulchingMan said:

    It’s on a Stihl BG86 but I’m assuming they’ve started using them on other products too? 
    I’ve attached a picture of the screw 

    thanks 

    439F06E5-3548-42E8-BA02-2FECE9A16E0D.jpeg

    WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK

    Hexagon Screwdriver 4mm Across the Flat Edges of the Hexagon Shape Genuine Stihl Part OEM No. 5910 890 2307

     

    If it's not that one then do you know the numbers on your carb? 

     

  5. Just now, mirecc said:

    By refuelling you mean running tank dry and then adding fuel? I topped like a half tank in the morning and it never fired since then.

    I'm not sure of what they mean by "refuelling" I'm not a husky tech. I just know that it was a common fault and there was a tech notice with the 560xp's. Failing to start after refuelling was the notice and they bought out a kit and ECU update to fix it 

  6. Horses for courses I suppose ? I just remember there being stories of the US loggers with 660's and they were running 50:1 as per the manual. Some guys were reporting issues with loss of compression/damaged cylinders and the ones running 40:1 weren't having an issue at all. How true they are we will never know. As far as I'm concerned I'll run as much oil as I can without it starting to have negative effects. If anything the newer, cleaner burning/less dirty oils have opened the gates to running heavier oil ratios without the negative impacts. There's a reason that car/truck/machinery/shipping engines have built in oil, they last longer. 

  7. Mines not an anything yet as I am yet to purchase the new truck! That is interesting though... Sounds easier to plumb in that having to take it to a garage somewhere and having them set up and calibrate it as I could calibrate myself with IBC's I assume? 

  8. Good news, so you have compression/spark/timing etc. I know there's an update kit for the 560 as they had issues with not starting after re-fuelling. Something to do with breather lines, replacing the breather and blanking off a vent into the crankcase and it's available as a kit. There's also an "update" from the dealership for the computer too 

  9. If you dribble a little fuel into the carb/combustion chamber or you give it a TINY squirt of easy start does it fire in choke? If it's not firing at all with you manually adding fuel and you have spark then I would say to check the compression. If it's firing when you manually add some fuel then its definitely the carb 

    • Like 1
  10. Also twin rear axle is better for towing. If you're towing a chipper and the worst happens, the higher level of grip from a twin is less likely to jack-knife. Twin axles also seem better on wet grass which is what arb trucks face the most, they also have better grip and stability in the rain but are worse in sand and snow. You gain about 100kg in payload by choosing the single axle but I think you lose towing capacity by having single axle. If you want an arb tipper and get it lightweight and aluminium you gain back 160kg in payload compared to steel tippers anyway so your best option is a twin rear. Safer, roughly the same payload, higher towing capacity. 

  11. 2 hours ago, Stubby said:

    Been mixing Aspen 4 with Red Line at 50:1 for years ( well since Aspen came out ) Don't see why you could not mix at whatever ratio you want but can't see the need to go below 50:1 . 

    It's more for peace of mind. I use the 1L bottles with the measuring unit on the top. I don't 100% trust the measuring cups or their ability to fully empty so I go up to the 100ml line (50:1) and then a touch over to around 110ml to 115ml or around 43-45:1. It probably makes no difference to the engine but it gives me peace of mind that I haven't under oiled. It also means that if I accidently stick over 5L in there at the pump then I don't run lean. I serviced my 3 year old 261 the other week. Plug was a nice biscuit colour and I boroscoped the bore, the piston was still shiny on top and there was no damage or signs of wear at all to the cylinder or piston skirt. The head itself was also nice and clean. Personally I would rather "over oil" slightly and have a dirty plug or a dirty piston than under oil and when I push the limits of the saw cause some damage. 

  12. 1 hour ago, Samantha48 said:

    I will definitely be purchasing those gloves then Paddy ? you must be still be frozen to death ? that sounds like one of the bad days ! I hope you were paid handsomely for working in that wind strength xx I have never been to Dartmoor but I imagine it’s absolutely stunning ?

    Nah, trick is to leave warm clothes in the truck so you're warm for the trip back instead of suffering the whole way. It wasn't bad at all really, enjoyed every minute. Even stopped at lunch and made a bacon and egg bap on the stove to cheer me up ? If you go to Hi-Line for training it's definitely worth a day trip and some sight seeing whilst you're in the area! 

    • Like 3
  13. So I'm looking at a new van (but that's not what this is about) and I want to ideally get some load sensors for the axles. It would be nice to know that I'm not overweight but more importantly I could probably put on more load knowing exactly what I had on there than playing it safe. I feel I could turn 4 loads into 3 knowing what I had onboard. I did some contract work years back for the local council and I was using one of their Iveco vans that had overload sensors which were the red/green light style and were crap to be honest. Googling around I've noted that you can get digital ones that tell you in kg what the load is on the axle. Anyone using these? Just looking for an opinion of them and an estimated price for reference? 

     

    Thanks! 

  14. 46 minutes ago, Samantha48 said:

    I know the weather is hard to work in

    I was up on Dartmoor Tuesday, big open area with almost no shelter, winds gusting 40-50+ and I could watch the rain go horizontally across a field infront of me. I was taking a couple of branches off an oak as the landowner was worried about it being heavily leaning and across the road. First day this year I actually got cold! I think the global warming is working on our side, not just with more work coming in but nicer weather to do it in. My hands started to slow right down and hurt when I touched them, I ended up panic buying 5 more pairs gloves on the way home. I can now highly recommend pfanner stretchflex Ice gloves now though! ?

    • Like 2
    • Sad 1
  15. I don't know what oil is in Aspen but you shouldn't harm anything as long as it's fully synthetic oil. In future I would buy the 4 stroke aspen and self mix. I like Stihl Ultra oil @ 40-45:1 so I mix it myself usually although I have been using normal petrol recently and saving the aspen for storage as I am getting put off paying almost £5 a litre at the moment. 

  16. I used T-rex for my ultra-sling as Tuefelberger has great quality splicing instructions and armed with a tape measure, some whipping thread and and a little bit of OCD about placement there really isn't anything you can get wrong if you follow the manual. 

     

    I like the ultra/loopie/ploopie etc slings as there's minimal area for messing up with a no-knot system. I'm sure someone will tell me that you shouldn't be rigging if you aren't confident in your knots but I come from the aircraft industry and if you can remove the chance for a human factor error then you remove it. There's a reason planes crash and 80% of the time it's human error. 

     

    What size T-rex are you working with? 

    • Like 1
  17.  I've not used a safebloc but I have an ultrasling with a ring, never had it slip or slide on a pole. The loading is pretty instantaneous plus the loading to grip ratio are directly correlated. I.e with 5kg load it has a small amount of grip, with 100kg it has a tonne of grip. The more load, the more grip. There's never really a time during that fall where you have no grip and a high load. Whack the ultra around a tree, synch it up and then let all the weight off and try to pull it down, it won't shift.

     

    All things being equal worst case scenario it slides a couple of feet on a super slippery tree like a beech and maybe causes you to gaff out but I've yet to see that happen? Maybe someone else has had that experience.

    • Thanks 1
  18. 1 hour ago, struie said:

    hi samantha,never you mind what the rest of them are saying,i am 64 and still climbing,still learning,every day is a school day in this job,i was 10yrs old the first time out with me dad,when he started teaching me on a chainsaw and believe me it does take its toll,but its a great job, when it all goes right,lol, took down an ash with die back the other day,pissn rain,on a steep bank,over summerhouse,first limb on climbing 5 or 6 foot or so failed,landed on me ars, oh, and with a new groundie,but,what a great feeling when we had it beat,  keep on truckin girl.

    Good to have input from some of the more "well seasoned" climbers! Everyone says how it's a young guys game and anyone over 35 won't be able to climb anymore. I feel with new tech (climbing systems, AV systems on saws etc and new techniques (srt) us younger guys should be able to carry on with a lot less physical damage! 

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1

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