Paddy1000111

12 hours ago, dan blocker said:

You’ll be up the tree for the start but I presume you’ll be back on the ground for the end game🤔. The final tidy up will be a pain with a garden laid out like that. If I had a small chipper that would be the answer as others have said, contain the mess around the tree. Also cuts out the problem of blown/ stray wood chip on the chaps gravel drive😳

Well the customer has said that they want to keep all the wood and it can be left at the base of the tree so I imagine that once I've pinged down anything brash size and cut all the wood out in log size bits as the drop zone is a 6ft square the 2 groundies should have shifted the brash. 

I'll just up the price by a few hundred and if I get it then I can get in more guys and a mini chipper maybe. 

12 minutes ago, doobin said:

Tell him not to be so bloody stupid, it goes through the neighbours building site garden or he can find someone else to do it. 

That's why I'm just going to bump the price up to the point he will go with someone else. I'll be up the tree so a long drag isn't my problem but it's going to be a crap job regardless

Maybe there is friction there. At the time the next door neighbor was fine with it. He's having his house extended so there's no garden to be seen and he seemed perfectly happy to have it out as it blocks light to his anyway. I don't understand why he wants it through the garden, lots of tiny little flowers and plants to get crushed, the drag also has to go over a little wooden bridge over the coy carp pond so that will no doubt get crap in it of the branches were just dragged. 🙄

It's becoming most of my jobs too. Tomorrow is a largish bay prune and 2 other trees to be taken out through the house. 

The job with the leylandii is annoying. I went to quote it and the neighbour seemed nice and was happy for it to be removed through their side. I gave a lower price because I could park the chipper 15ft from the tree but the customer has now decided that they want it taken through their garden and not from the neighbors side (asking at the same price) so I'm tempted to just stick a load of £ on it and not do it. I get the feeling I'm the only one who quoted a sane price because of the easy access from next door where the other guys quoted for removal through the garden. I think I'll just go higher with the quote to the point where I probably won't get it and if I do it will make it okay and I'll throw the guys some more money too 

10 minutes ago, Doug Tait said:

If I was your groundsman I wouldn't thank you for that Paddy. Been in that position a few times, when "it'll make life easier, save you the drag", and it's just a slow, frustrating process. Recently we were offered to take the wee chipper to a little pruning job in an awkward bit, no thanks. Rather carry branches 1 or 2 at a time and pile up to chip in a few minutes at the end, or use a long thin tarp to stretcher them out. Anything but the wee chipper!

Fair enough. I guess a skinny tarp and some bungies might make it easier.

11 minutes ago, Will C said:

40ft deep gravel? Customer must have enough coin to pay for helicopter extraction 🤐🤣

If it was that deep I'd just tuck the brash under the gravel 😂

3 minutes ago, woody paul said:

Get use to it what comes with tree work, some times no easy way to do it. 

It doesn't bother me but I know it's gunna suck and it's not a good day for my groundies. It's a shit drag, across an ornate garden, over a little wooden bridge and across a 40ft deep gravel path. Just trying to make life easier for the guys.

7 minutes ago, Mick Dempsey said:

Use that petrol winch and drag it up in bundles.

Not my petrol winch but I have done that before. Not in a garden but on a big maccy where the access was good but it was a fair drag. Worked an absolute treat! 

I think I'll go down the route of a mini chipper for the day and barrow it out/use a Wheely bin! 

38 minutes ago, Ian Flatters said:

Have you thought about a wee chipper and chip into a wheelie bin? See it a few times on Instagram. Might make shifting it easier. Or crane and just lift it out.

It's not big enough for a crane, that's for sure and it's about a 80 yard walk back and forth. Not sure on the crane boom distance?

So recently I've had more enquires for domestic work where its a tree at the end of the ornate garden and all the bits have to be removed. Logs are easy to handle with barrows etc but does anyone have any hints/tips for brash? I've got a small/medium Leylandii to remove (about 30ft) but bulky as hell and the access size is a wheelbarrow/walkway so large dumpy bags are no good. I've got loads of the green waste dumpy bags 40x40x60 size which are great but I want to make life easier for the groundies if I can?

2 hours ago, Justme said:

The Sthil does that too.

 

A cool cycle first then a cool cycle after they are charged.

Takes forever it feels. I've got 6 of the Makita 18v ones and I was using them with an angle grinder to clear off paint and I was rotating them out the fridge, into the grinder back to the fridge and into the charger and they still couldn't keep up! 

9 minutes ago, Justme said:

Just found a kit that has a voucher for a bluetooth Makita radio as part of the deal.

 

Might just tip the scales, but it is two x 2.5ah bats which seem a little low. Was going to get the 4 ah but then its a 40 min charge time. At least with two the charge time is lower at about 25 mins & you should get 25 mins of gentle use out of each one.

To be fair the Makita batteries are good. I can notice a big difference between the 4ah and 5ah batteries. My main nemisis is heat. If I run them hard then they take 10 minutes on the charger to cool plus the charge time 

3 hours ago, neiln said:

Yep I can see myself going to aspen if I have trouble.  I never have yet, even though I sometimes have fuel or mix sat in a can for 6+ months.  I avoided E5 for as long as I could and I use a stabiliser (startron). I'll continue to avoid E10 by buying super, and see how we go. If saw or mower become trouble then I'll probably go to aspen.

If you're thinking of switching then the sooner the better. Saves pulling all the pipes out and rebuilding the carb unless they are already well aged 

I'd remove it. It doesn't look like it's really dense enough to give a huge benefit to bats etc. As others have said, cut all the ivy stems around the base with a little hand saw. Make a special effort not to cut or score the tree at all when doing it. I've seen many dead trees from poor ivy removal jobs.

On 25/06/2021 at 18:30, maybelateron said:

I'm sure two star had lead in it, just a smaller amount. My understanding was that the lead acted as an anti knock agent, but also helped lubricate the valve stems/guides and the valve seats. On a different note we have just managed the last two days almost completely using battery saws. When we had to get out the MS261 and MS660 to do the lower trunk the fumes were horrid/eyes stinging. I only use Aspen2 in our recently rebuilt MS880. For new saws from now on I am going to be very tempted to fund the Aspen2, or any that have the fuel system components replaced.

Aspen is 100% worth it. I've got asthma and I find I get a tight chest if I use petrol milling instead of aspen. Also works well for storage. I dragged out a hedge cutter that I hadn't used in over a year and it was full of aspen, second pull and away it went. Pulled out a strimmer that I hadn't used in 6 months and the regular petrol was orange and rank.

That's pretty shit for the company 👎 I guess they, in theory, should have had the skills not to outsource. 

My xtrail has been playing up recently going into limp mode and stuff. Scanned it, boost pressure sensor code. Tested the sensor on obd with a mighty vac and it had failed. I put a new sensor on and it worked a treat. Two weeks later the turbo exhaust pressure sensor blew. It never makes sense how related sensors all go at the same time.

1 minute ago, dig-dug-dan said:

Finally got the truck back after 6 weeks. Blown egr pipe. Then a heated oxygen sensor needed replacing, then the eml light kept coming on, and showing no codes! An auto electrician called in by the garage, as they could not do it, found a chaffed wire somewhere deep inside a loom, prob done at the factory. All fixed, till the next time!

The main question: All covered under warranty? 

On 23/06/2021 at 09:18, GLynch said:

I wouldn't know what to look for tbh in m no good with vehicles 

Thanks for the info though

With it parked up and the handbrake on, engine off and out of gear grab each side of the flexible joints (universal joints-UJ's) on the driveshaft and try to rotate each side in opposite directions back and forth. If it's got play in it or its clunking then get it checked by a garage. 

Definitely go with marine ply if you're going to put it on a van. Anything else will just become mush and I always find that screws pull through OSB if it gets hit by a log or something. Marine ply lifespan is still limited though. 

I got mine as a cage back and then finished it with polycarbonate/aluminium hoarding boards and it looks good 

https://www.cutplasticsheeting.co.uk/product/amaribond-hoarding-panel/

1 hour ago, Treerover said:

 

Do you not have trouble freeing it though ?
Looks an interesting alternative.
I think Reg Coates uses similar ?

 

Yes and no. It's less hooked than a dmm hook so it's not too bad. If the rope is tied to it tightly then a good flick usually frees it. If you clip it on with a carab it can be a bit of an arse. 

Reg coates uses one that's slightly bigger I think. I only got one after seeing his and how he was traversing between trees with it. Works a treat when you have multiple stems to deal with and you don't want to go down and back up the next stem.

1 minute ago, Mr. Squirrel said:

Nope. If someone showed me that and old me they were actually using it I’d beat them over the head with it. Don’t be stupid. 

It might not be recognised as PPE but it’s certainly used in a such a manner that were it to fail, you could incur serious injury. 
 

To the OP, they’re dear for what they are, but very useful when you need one. The epple hook is also a good option. 

Sorry but I don't understand how you could incur serious injury. If you're trusting it (or any open system) to the point where you could have a serious fall/pendulum swing you deserve a serious injury. 

Neither that or the Captain hook is life support. What it is good for though is pulling yourself out to a branch where you need additional support or putting out on a limb to give yourself better stability for a pruning cut. I've ground the teeth off mine and rounded it off so it's not so aggressive. I even used it during my nptc pruning course. If you're not using it for life support it really doesn't matter. 

I can confirm that commercial vehicles are more to insure, at least in my case My car is £168 a year (Volvo v50 2.0 r-design) and my slow as hell transit was £487.... 

2 hours ago, woody paul said:

Back leaning willow i did a couple of years ago picture not showing how much it was leaning back, neighbouring field was owned by ex-footballer how said we could not fell on to his field and then winch back.

Was winch over with landy with snatch block and anchored back to tractor with loader anchored into ground.

 

Photos ain't working 👎