apvinny
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Everything posted by apvinny
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she's alive, she's alive.did everything adw said and after pressure testing the carb it was leaking down on the needle after fitting the rebuild kit. lengthened the spring a smidge not sure if that is the thing to do? and was holding tight.oh the little things that makes this fen boy happy,a running from wreck two stroke chainsaw.thanks to all that commented and helped me get this back up and running especially adw you are a top man.like i said before this is a little tinkering pastime and learning all the time.now for the next one.
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i think this saw has been apart before because a few bits missing on strip down,i have a scary feeling the piston is on the wrong way round.when i took the cylinder off to get the boot back on.i was going to check this but forgot[bad memory].should the gap in the piston face the exhaust port or carb.
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ok so i think its as it should be . i will take it apart tomorrow to double.umm not looking good. why would it not run with fuel down the plug hole that is a bit worrying.
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ok so all back together and a non runner even with fuel down the plug hole.so my few questions are it has a tillotson carb with two inlets one for fuel and one for impulse which pipes go to which one,the one on the top or the one on the side.and the metering arm where should it be set height wise i have it level with lowest part of the carb or should it be where the gasket sits,so they are my two things to try apart from that i'm at a loss thanks all
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ok thanks so i'll just order a kit for the hs series
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ok so she is going back together and i am going to order new carb kit but my carb numbers dont match with anything on the net.carb says on it S237A804 TILLOTSON,
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ok thanks thats good to know,is there a knack to the crank seals,lube up well ? do i remember someone saying about a making a thin plastic tube to slide over the crank
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ok so stripped the 625 down a bit more and the boot clamp is the wire one as ive seen other videos with the same sprung wire one its not a great idea though.also one side crank seal is blowing so going to replace them both.now the carb boot should have a strengthener ring inside it which isn't there and no one on the planet has one can i replace the carb without this or is it a must have or will something else fit.thats all i can think of at the minute thanks all
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to pricey for me lol
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ok i'm gonna ponder on this one cause if i knacker this boot up i will guess its gonna be just as rare as hens teeth to replace.
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i cannot find that part for love nor money or anything similar it has a bit of very hard shaped sprung wire at the moment.i haven't got round yet to crankcase seals but will prop do them as a matter of course.
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ok great i have spark cant fire it up as its in bits for full clean and degunk.i am still worried about how to get this intake boot on and the air leak i have around the cylinder lip where the boot goes on as the wire clip is not holding well enough.the picture on internet shows a plastic cliip with a screw which looks better.i dont want to buy any parts yet because if i [we] lol cant find a solution to that then i think the rebuild is pointless as i will have a permanent air leak from the off.
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hi how do i do that. can i do it in situ with a multimeter. i do have a spark but it could still be the coil?
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hi all i have just bought a 625 in a job lot bundle with other things.compression is good 150 but i have a small leak in the intake boot its just not sealing up. i eased it off to have a look and all is ok now i can't get the blimming thing back on.it looks like the only way is to lift the barrel up and is there a better way to seal the boot other than the wire clip.i haven't got it started yet but everything is there to start but it just won't even with fuel straight down the plug, thanks vince
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since iv'e rebuilt it and got it running order i havent had chance to run it in anger for very long. it may have to wait till later in the year till i can take it to work when we do or tree work.
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yeah i thought as much umm maybe it's something i will just have to live with. what about the adjuster screw mech do they fail?
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ok so i gave the bolts a nip behind oil pump they were ok, the other two which i think hold the bumper spikes on? one was out because i took exhaust off when i put it back in the only bubbles were out of the oil vent so thats a relief. so original question is why do i get so much bar oil when running its soaking the clutch and dripping off the saw. everything is new orings xring pick up pipe.can the pump pump too much oil????
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ok i'll try and look at tightening bolts but theres so much oil under the muffler getting a seal will be lucky, any torque settings or just f***k off tight.what needs to be took off to get to these bolts?
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i'm not sure i could afford to get it professionally sorted.
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pump is on number 2 setting.yeah it does leak when sitting. i thought it was leaking from exhaust bolts that go into tank but once i plugged all tank openings and pressurised oil tank and see bubbles i feared the worst . obviously it wasn't coming out of exhaust bolts but under the exhaust where the two cases join.never done a case split job really not looking forward to it if i have to do it.plus swmbo won't be happy for me to buy a splitter
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ok fellas so the saw has been running ok but last few times it is using gallons of bar oil.this morning i have took off muffler ang pressure tested the oil tank and i have bubbles coming from where the casings meet and the bronze oil vent . is this the problem for the oil coming out far too much or is it another problem i have to fix,waiting in nervous anticipation vince
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ok so stripped carb again on 266 and 61, reset metering arm pressure tested carb to barrel which was good put a thin piece of wire in impulse hole in barrel does the hole go all way into piston mine never.anyway put all back together and started carb with settings which was suggested high setting needed a little fettling but i think they are both close to being ok. carb needs slight adjustment i think as im not a 100% on this but they run ok.thanks for all your help i have learnt loads thanks to you guys.anyway another 266 lives after i picked it out of a skip.
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i bet it is something silly. if i put the metering arm level with the floor there is no movement on the needle when i press down on the arm or will the metering diaphram move it more when i connect the fork bit to the diaphram,christ does that make sense.will take apart again at the weekend and check again impulse as well. the only thing i have not replaced is the tank breather every thing else on the fuel side is new. the thing that buggers my head up is the chinese carb made it run exactly the same.thanks everyone for your help its been very much appreciated.i will keep you informed.
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ok had the morning putting the 266se back together after pressure testing.crank seals all held up as fuel lines etc all hold 7ft llbs well.chinese carb on not running well original carb on still not running well,so ill stick with original carb i have put new diaphram kit in but am still unsure where the needle control arm should sit level with floor or carb housing. i am sure i have tried both ways to same result it will start rev at a very high tickover slow down and stall.i also smeared the thinnest of dirko on gaskets for extra air tightness[wrong or right?].
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mityvac came and started to test saw,then pin fell out of handle replaced and fell out again.will get a roll pin from fitters in the morning.what a s*%t design.anyone had this problem i can only think of a roll pin for a decent repair.
