Toad

7 hours ago, Stere said:

Who said it: Dominic Cummings or Nathan Barley? | Dominic Cummings | The Guardian

WWW.THEGUARDIAN.COM

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After Boris Johnson’s No 1 spad issues a bizarre job advert via his blog, can you guess who said it: Cummings or Barley?

 

Got 12/14 🙂

14/14

Loved Nathan Barley, horribly prophetic.

Used to go out of Langstone on a charter boat a fair bit back in the late 90s. The shepherd from next door bought a couple of boats and kept them at our farm so we used to go out fishing together a lot, either fr slips at Langstone, Lymington or Christchurch. Haven't been since then apart from on a mates stag do a few years back. Used to love it. Just great being out at sea.

Had a 15"ish diameter limb drop off a neighbours tree into our field a couple of weeks back. Managed to end up stood like a tripod on a fairly thin limb. Couple of cuts and a tug with the landrover and it was nice and safe on the floor.

The guy renting a place on the farm has had this in the past week, a&e said it was the cow parsley gipper he got on him from the strimmer being photo activated by the strong sunlight.

13 minutes ago, the village idiot said:

Do the bales hold together enough without string or net to be able to collect up afterwards? If not I'd be as well off with a mower/collector and not have any windrowing to do.

They hold together well enough to grab up and chuck into a tipping trailer. You might lose a few chunks or bits, but being super neat isn't the aim of the game I guess? If you did want to put string or net on you could probably fiddle around to find the minimum amount to hold them together to get the shifted and minimise the amount you use.

2 hours ago, the village idiot said:

That's an interesting thought. Small balers don't look like they cost too much money. I wonder if they would cope in a woodland setting?

 

I can just imagine the local farmer's face if I pointed his £200,000 baling set up into the Woods!

You could probably get an old, tired round baler and do a decent job. You don't 'need' to put net or string on, as long as it flops out the back without leaving anything to stop the rear door closing if you wanted to then burn or compost the bales. I had a job baling linseed for burning once, the customer didn't want net so left rough piles all over the field. Did the job for him so he was happy. I used to run a krone baler with chains and slats, it could cope with anything you shoved in the front of it unlike the balers with belts.

13 minutes ago, Retired Climber said:

Apologies for the tangent, but I'm dying to know why you end some of your posts with the word 'musch'. What the hell is a musch? 

Alternative to mate, pal, chum.

I looked at the filler material last year after questions about a job of mine. I think that you can either use a hot applied bituminous filler or just sikaflex. We went for sikaflex.

There are some dmrb/mchw drawings with the references on and details of the rebar used to link the concrete bays, but I can't find them and as they're motorway construction spec they can be toned down a bit.

You can get special removal tools. Supposed to be good, might get one to save playing hide and seek with myself too much more.

Thanks. The through versions I have found are considerably larger diameter, I'll do a bit more googling.

22 hours ago, spudulike said:

I use marine stainless inserts as long as the land around the hole can support the size of the insert.

Something like these? 

I'll have a look and see what sort of surround I have on the hole.

Blind Self Tapping Inserts Stainless Steel Marine Grade 316: M2 To M20 (5 Pack)

WWW.EBAY.CO.UK

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Stainless Steel 316 M2 7mm M2 x 0.4mm 4.0mm 60 degree flank...

Had the opportunity to nibble on some decent sized beech with the 385 yesterday for the first time in ages. I've had a problem with one of the top cover screws coming loose, when I got the saw someone had jammed a larger random screw into it. I filled it with JB weld, drilled and tapped it, but the threads have failed and the screws come loose quickly. Am in the process of trying this again, but has anyone got any ideas on a better solution if it doesn't work? I think the original hole is too big for a helicoil now.

7 hours ago, Stubby said:

The non de comp one will probably be for the earlier 45cc model .  So smaller pot and piston .

It is a 50cc cylinder. @ADW  mentioned it in another thread, apparently in the US they got a 50cc 346 ne with no decomp valve while we got it with a decomp. Not entirely sure why. 

I got that one for the 346 I most recently rebuilt - it's great so far.

Hope all is well with you?

I love my 346s, they all cost a fair bit of money to repair though.

Oh, and I didn't incur any extra costs over what eBay charged at checkout.

5 minutes ago, twiggers said:

How did you get on with this?? And what was the seller the link is down atm.

Yeah, really good thanks, arrived, fitted and running well.

The seller is out of stock for the one I bought. I found this one here. Looks to be the same without a decomp valve drilling.

Husqvarna 544142907 Piston Cylinder Craftsman 346XP Chainsaw

WWW.EBAY.CO.UK

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Husqvarna 544142907 - Replacement MPN: 544142903...

Or this one with a decomp valve.

Genuine OEM 544142908 Husqvarna 346XP Cylinder kit 544 14 29-08 New

WWW.EBAY.CO.UK

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Husqvarna Part # 544142908. Piston and ring included. 346 XP...

41 minutes ago, peds said:

If anyone wants to take a break from the pointless needling in this thread, I'd be grateful for any advice to a first-time fencer. I'm doing 150m for my neighbour next week, with a couple of gates, one in the middle, one at an end. I've just read about diagonal struts, they seem simple enough to do. Will I need to borrow a tensioner for this distance, or will I manage it by hand?

 

I'm thinking it'll be a strand of plain wire just above ground level (or not), 5 strand sheep wire, then two strands of barbed wire.

Any dos or don'ts are much appreciated.

Deffo tension it. Been watching some jokers put up a stock fence between house and the farm. Took about 4 days for 3 blokes to do around 200m. Not properly tensioned and sagging all over the place. They also started from the top with the barbed wire, when they fitted the stock fence the gap between them was all over the shop.

We do barbed wire just above the ground, stock fence and two strands of barbed on top. Gripples are great for nipping stuff up at the joins. Don't hammer the staples right in on the barbed wire on the intermediate posts so the barbed wire can move a bit and not pull posts over if a tree comes down etc and you can re-tighten it. 

I'm sure you can get better advice from proper fencing professionals though!

1 hour ago, the village idiot said:

Nice one!

 

Fowler and Gilbert are a little far from Suffolk but I'll certainly keep them in mind based on your recommendation.

They work nationally. The guy with the digger has a caravan behind the lorry, and the erectors stayed in a hotel. I'll find out who else quoted us.

The hay barn is about a year old or so. I think it is 60x40ft, with three 20ft bays. I think you could go longer with the spacing, but you would want some pretty hefty purlains. That one has a coated steel roof, the older cattle building is fibre cement.

The hay shed was erected by Fowler and Gilbert. They will be back soon to extend it. Excellent company to deal with. They send a bloke out with a digger to put the holes in for the legs, he has concrete turn up, sets the anchors and surveys it and sends the data back to the office, then a few weeks later the building arrives on a lorry, a couple of days before the erectors arrive.

Here are some pictures of our cattle and hay barn with Yorkshire boarding and the two sorts of galebreaker. The hay shed only got the galebreaker recently so the hay got a bit of rain on it and looks a bit rough on the outside.

5 hours ago, openspaceman said:

I see it has a registration number, what are the rules for driving on road? With trailer less than 750kg?

If it is like ours, it's registered as an agricultural vehicle. You don't want a massive trailer on them - the belt drive does a bit of a sad. 

Rob Astley trailers do some nice units for Mules and Quads.

4 hours ago, Khriss said:

@Toad am thinking  pot ends and the like, or non traced pipes, obvs you would also grab yr scanner before a dig. K

I wouldn't want to put too much faith in it for that. Too easy to misinterpret the output without digging a slot trench to confirm, but that would probably defeat the object.

19 hours ago, Khriss said:

And would buried services show up with this also  🤔  K

You can see voids, or changes in density with the gpr which you would then need to relate back to c2s or tracing services with a CAT. You can't tell what you are looking at necessarily.

I've used them for utility surveys at work, They have their place and are useful, but by no means are they a standalone foolproof utility survey tool. 

From what I've experienced, the resolution of the gpr is about 10% of the depth scanned, so a 100mm duct is only visible to 1m or so. The different frequency used here may improve this though.

29 minutes ago, the village idiot said:

Is the galebreaker crap or the roller shutter arrangement?

The roller shutter, I'll grab some photos later of both the normal and the roller shutter stuff. I think the rollers aren't helped by being quite short in our example. I wonder if you could get away with having a few metres directly under the roof and then have a lot of the rest of the sides open to get the airflow.

We have a mix of Yorkshire boarding and a material called galebreaker on our buildings. The galebreaker can be removed/reerrected and we have some on roller shutter arrangements, but I think they are a bit crap.