JamesNYorkshire

Check the needle bearing isn’t worn or disintegrated... I kept having the same issue with mine and got through quite a few e clips and washers... If it’s the same problem I had it’s easily resolved by switching to a spur sprocket James

Seems to be running great so will leave it as is and check the plug, the H screw was obviously set very rich (multiple full turns...) by whoever last adjusted it so I think that was probably the issue. Thank you for your help and yes you definitely know what you’re doing ?? Carb adjustments are pretty new to me as I’m 21 and all the saws I’ve ever done proper maintenance on have been Stihl M-tronic. Thanks again, James

Good point, seem to have sorted it now but will definitely consider it if I have any more problems ? James

Right, have done as you said and turned L and H screws in as far as they would go (It seems the screws went in a lot further than I thought they did previously) then out 1 1/4 turns and it now idles great! So thank you very much! It seems to run normally, accelerates well and returns to idle quickly with no significant smoke so should I leave it as it is or try and fine tune it? The (almost new) spark plug was completely black so it was obviously running pretty rich anyway (hadn’t adjusted the H at all until this point) Is it worth changing the plug to see how it looks after running for a bit? Thanks, James

Right, sounds like a good plan of action, will have a look at all that tomorrow, thank you for your help. Unfortunately I’m a bit far from Hertfordshire! Thanks again, James

Yes, and confusingly I’ve somehow ended up discussing the same thing on two threads... Is that sort of thing fixable? I think I’d need to take it to a dealer anyway if it’s something like that... Will try adjusting the H screw (after checking spark plug...) and a couple other bits I can do, if none of them work I’ll take it in. Bit of a pain really as I only bought it as a cheap back up saw and it ran fine when I tried it out... (Only paid £80 for it so not too bad I suppose)

Bizarrely if you’d just removed the rear seats I don’t think it would have been part of the test (seatbelts aren’t where there’s no corresponding seat, not 100% sure on mounts) and therefore it would have passed if that was the only issue...

Have tried various positions on the L and idle screws but it hasn’t helped (plus it’s hard to adjust properly when the saw won’t idle normally...) hadn’t really thought of adjusting the H screw tbh, will try leaning that up a bit tomorrow and see if it helps. If tha doesn’t help I guess I’ll have to look for an air leak. There does seem to be quite a lot of buildup in the muffler (from what I can see through the exhaust port), do you think there’s any chance that could be causing it? Thanks, James

Yes they were and have now put a new clutch in anyway (as well as needle bearing etc.) so I know it’s not clutch related.

Have tried various different positions for both L and idle, will have another go tomorrow, problem is it’s a bit difficult to adjust properly when I can’t get it to idle normally (only “fast idle” when starting up). From what I can see looking through the exhaust there does seem to be some deposits in the muffler so I’m going to see if I can sort that too. James

Having finally removed the clutch and replaced it as well as the sprocket, needle bearing, air filter and fuel filter it still stalls after coming off the throttle whatever I do with the L and idle carb adjustments... Next I’m planning to clean the carb and either clean or replace the muffler... Is there anything else I should be checking that could be the cause of this? Thanks, James

Problem solved, clutch removal tool arrived today and after quite a bit of effort managed to get the clutch off to replace it... Still not solved the issue of the saw stalling after coming off the throttle though...

Wish mine would snap if that would make it easier haha, removal tool ordered anyway so hopefully I’ll be able to remove it with that...

Yes I know it’s a left hand thread and using paracord so basically the same as starter cord, will order the tool and I guess I may as well order a new bearing as I assume it’s probably disintegrated and that’s why the clutch is so stuck.... James

Anyone got any tips on removing an incredibly stubborn clutch on a husky 350? Have tried hammer and punch and it won’t budge at all... Have tried to lever it off with vise grips, adjustable spanner’s, pipe wrenches and combinations of all three and still won’t move a millimetre... is the Husky clutch removal tool worth getting? Thanks, James