Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

Hank

Member
  • Posts

    59
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Hank

  1. gary112 and lurkalot, you are right and it's infuriating to think that people can/will get away with shoddy workmanship like this. So I may yet go in there and talk to someone. They weren't very open to my complaints last time, ha ha. In fact the guy I spoke to did not give a f*** about it. BUT, there was definitely some foolishness on my part for getting them to do a partial rebuild because it opens up the door to so many potential problems, this thread being proof of that. It also gives them the option to say "you gave it to us in bits so we can't take responsibility" (e.g. a missing torx screw). 

     

    However, the missing dowels are definitely their fault so at the very least I should go in there and tell them.

     

    @Mesterh, as far as I'm aware I put the flywheel on correctly: aligned it with the key; torqued it up; set the coil gap. Like I said before, it's now running...

  2. 30 minutes ago, peatff said:

    The dowels were probably in the replacement casing, was it a new half casing ? Probably needed a whack to free the bearing up if it was a bit out of line.

    It was used (but in better condition than the previous one) and the dowels weren't included. You can see where the front one is supposed to be but isn't on the rebuilt saw.

  3. 41 minutes ago, spudulike said:

    It is a crank case alignment dowel, there are generally two, one at the front and one to the rear of the con rod case opening. They hold both sides of the cases in perfect alignment rather than the cases moving around on the clearances around the screw holes.

    Where did you take the engine - Bodgitandscarper Ltd or their main competition Cowboys Incorporated Co?

    It seems they both have some stiff competition now in Andover Garden Machinery...

  4. Yeah it was a partial rebuild. It was stupid of me really - but I didn't think it'd turn into this whole thing. 

     

    Incidentally I just went back to the shed to have another look after getting annoyed and leaving it for a bit and lo and behold it's back to normal. This leads me to think that something has indeed been left in the case and possibly dislodged after it was left on its side, so that's troubling. But at the moment it fires up as normal.

     

    Spud, the coil gap is set to 0.5mm or thereabouts.

     

    Another thing I'm annoyed about is that it was returned with a torx screw missing. Ffs.

  5. 5 minutes ago, lurkalot said:

    OK, that makes things a little clearer.   Though in your first post you stated it needed a new piston and rings and you gave them the go ahead to do it.  ;)

     

    So you've made sure the flywheel isn't hitting the ignition coil, and the air gap is set?   If this isn't the problem I'd sling it straight back to the guys who rebuilt it for you.

    No sir read it again, it says "they told me it needed new piston rings".

     

    And Mick you're probably right, no offence taken but I'd like to figure it out all the same. Gotta learn somehow.

    • Like 1
  6. 2 minutes ago, lurkalot said:

    Can you explain that scenario a bit more please.  Doesn't really make sense.  Are you saying you can pull the start cord but the engine doesn't turn?   And why did it need a new flywheel?  I take they're not a Stihl main dealer, fitting a fifteen quid piston and rings?

     

    No I'm saying I can't pull the start cord. It's like the piston is locked. By hand you can turn it clockwise and anti-clockwise before it clunks to a stop. 

     

    And it wasn't a whole new piston! They fitted piston rings. It needed a new flywheel because the old one got damaged in a move while all this was happening.

  7. Hi everyone. This is probably going to be an essay of a post so I hope someone reads and can help!! 

     

    The left bolt that holds the chain brake handle to the body of my MS260 sheared off. Being a smart arse I thought I could drill it out or use a helicoil and stick a new bolt in, neither of which worked so I thought f*** it and bought a used casing for £20 from eBay. In the end I actually couldn't split the cases to swap them over so I took it to a local repair shop and explained what I needed them to do. 

     

    In the process they told me it needed new piston rings and bearing to which I said ok as it was only fifteen quid or so.

     

    Well I got it back today (after three weeks rather than the five days they told me it would be!!!), got it all back together with a nice new flywheel and... the flywheel doesn't turn. The brake is off and the cord is rewinding ok so the question is, am I being a dunce or has the repair place f***ed up? 

     

    I would prefer not to go back there as I already had a heated conversation about how long it took and the fact they added £70 more to the invoice than they quoted without informing me beforehand. Rubbish service.

     

    Any help/thoughts appreciated.

    • Sad 1
  8. I got a reading a couple of days ago of 100psi on my 560. Emailed Spud about sending it to him for general check up etc and he said it wouldn't run on 100psi so that's reassuring at least. I'll have to get a better tester... is the Gunson a reliable unit?

  9. 4 hours ago, Alycidon said:

    Has anyone else had this issue,   do not feel like buying another Husky given that the engine also seized soon after buying as the dealer had sold be Sthil 2 stroke mix to go with it,  should be synthetic mix.

    Didn't realise mixing oils could cause such a problem :| 

     

    Anyone else experienced this?

     

  10. Well that's good to know. It seems weird to me though. The guy I bought it off said he got it off Gumtree but barely used it and the bloke he bought it off said it was a 2012 and that's all he could tell me. Seems an odd mistake to make considering you could probably make an extra couple of hundred quid off it. It's clearly been used but the only thing that would suggest it was a 6 year old saw is that the decompression valve has a partially perished grommet/washer (pictured). Otherwise it looks in great shape. And from my investigative Googling the 2012 model doesn't look like it has the petrol and oil flip covers which this one does.

     

    wA4dEWr.jpg

  11. ... for £300. Worth getting? I haven't seen it in person yet but looks in good nick. Is there anything I should look out for? It doesn't look like it has any stickers with serial numbers/date of manufacture on it. Is there anywhere else on the saw I could find them?

     

    Edit. I know there's umpteen topics on the 560 but I couldn't find any that quite answer my question...

  12. 9 minutes ago, billpierce said:

    Boggles the mind doesn't it.....had to buy a new coil for £90 quid or something.

     

    In fairness if I sold someone a saw, they said it didn't work I'd be hesitant about having it returned after they'd pulled it to bits diy style. What was harsh was there was a trail of eBay messages with his instructions of what he wanted me to check etc.......water under the bridge though.

     

     

    Hope you get sorted with the 026 either way pal!

     

    I bet you wouldn't tell them to pull it apart and then use that against them tho!!!

     

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.