Stevie777

Cheers. I can't believe I let chainsaw kickback effect me like that. Learned something about myself today.

I'm an Idiot. If you have been following my post about my hard to pull and furious backfire when starting chainsaw then I'm sorry...I'm really really sorry for asking as many questions. And here's why. I tore the saw apart, bought a flywheel puller, only to find the woodruff key was fine. Poked things I probably shouldn't have been poking. added a new kill switch, well, just in case. Clean everything that needed cleaning and stuck it all back together. Only to discover it was still hard to pull. #*"@##!!! 2 weeks of watching videos and reading up on saw maintenance, endless hours spent searching for service manuals and parts to no avail. Stuck the machine back together, fired some DW 40 into the cylinder and left it an hour. Tried again to pull it over. Still hard to pull. Pulled the spark plug boot, still hard to pull... Finally, before I gave up altogether and tossed it I decided to just go for it one last time and really put my back into it with the boot off...Hell, If I snap something I snap it, Doesn't matter, The saws got problems and parts are obsolete. lesson learned and move on. Well, low and behold it felt easy to pull. So spark plug boot back on and give it some welly on the pull cord. Boom!!!, No hard pull and no backfire, Running like a champ. I've stopped and started this machine all day. I can actually pull on it now without having to put my foot on the handle to hold it down...Here's the kicker. Turns out the problem was Me. I have been pulling it like a big girls arse. Probably because I got a bit scared the first time it backfired and psychologically wasn't pulling hard enough just in case I might hurt my fingy wingys again. So once again, So sorry to bust your balls with questions and multi pics. I let that backfire get into my head. maybe a lesson for all those,(and I'm not the only one) with questions on hard to pull saws. ? btw, is the engine running a bit rich? ? New Plug.

You ain't gonna believe this. Watch out for my next thread on the saw... I'll title it either 'I'm a big girls Bottom,' or 'Simply Embarrassing'.

Having watched videos of both kickback and guys using a top saw, one-handed, It scares the beejeebus out of me. We all switch off now and again in the workplace and in everyday life. 99% of the time we get away with it. So sad and should have been avoided. In reply to the guy on the first page talking about employers putting on the thumbscrews. That's fine for less hazardous rolls when the only thing that's going to get hurt is your feelings, but not for potential deadly jobs such as tree felling. For what it's worth I would have rammed the saw up where the sun doesn't shine, fat end first. If you're not confident doing something, don't do it...And don't cut corners to meet anyone's target. EVER!!!

Heartbreaking story and a frightening one. Maybe not practical but here goes. I've never used a top handle but i know that it's primarily used for Limbing the small stuff. Couldn't someone design some sort of guard that runs the length of the top of the bar and around the tip. It's obvious that when kickback happens it's the top or tip of the blade/chain that strikes you unless you lose full control and the saw becomes airborne. Just a suggestion.

OK, I pulled the flywheel. The key was fine. So here's where I am so far. Pull rope replaced. exhaust port and exhaust clear of carbon build up. cylinder and piston smooth and clean. pulls over easy with plug removed. start stop switch replaced. Coil working fine, Plenty of white spark. New plug. Still hard as hell to pull over once it hits top dead centre even with the HT lead off the plug. way too much compression. Any new ideas guys.? As you can see from the pics of the flywheel and crankcase, This saw was clean, Very little use whatsoever.

yeah, easy enough fix if that's the problem. Waiting on a puller arriving and we'll take it from there.

The engine won't run if the flywheel has slipped.? I'll try increasing the distance on the coil. one looks closer than the other anyway.

I don't have a flywheel puller, and as I cant easily source parts for this machine I'm reluctant to start using a hammer on it. I'll wait until I can source a flywheel puller as I don't want to be putting her to work with a sheared key that cost around a quid to replace..

Yeah, but it's sheared, Right?

in fact, now that i can see it in a bigger pic it does look sheared.

Does this look sheared to anyone. I cant see any shaft groove because of the way the shaft is hidden by that lip on top of the flywheel. Not sure if it's a shear line or just some oil creating the impression of the key being sheared

Are you referring to the ting ting ting sound coming off it.? It goes away at full rev or when I engage the chain brake.

I never said 'I can hear a misfire', Sorry if it came across that way. What's happening is, When i pull the cord the saw misfires and wants to pull the cord from my hand. As you can see i can still fire her up after a couple of pulls...... Yes, That video is one i made last night, Poor sound quality as i had the camera too close to the Saw. I can make another video if you wish.

Komatsu Zenoah G560avs.

Hi, Can anyone recommend a good Saw doctor in the Lanarkshire area.. I appear to have a misfire and need someone to look it over and give me a quote. I have a feeling it could be a sheared flywheel woodruff key though i have no idea how or why it sheared. The saw fires up and runs ok just getting misfire when i pull the cord.

didn't rev. more concerned with the possible timing issue.

Hi, Is it possible to shear the flywheel woodruff key when starting a chainsaw without the bar and chain attached? The reason I ask is... I got my hands on a 1990 Komatsu chainsaw yesterday. I removed it from the packaging and fired it up no problem. Twice. Really easy to turn over and start. Tick's over fine and has instant revs, Plenty compression. The chainsaw was posted without fuel and oil, so basically it fired up with whatever fuel was still in the line. Roll on today I decided to give it a clean. I removed bar and chain, cleaned up the built up crap around the bar stud area filled it with fresh fuel and oil then tried to start it to check if the oiler was working ok. The machine kicked back pulling the pull cord handle from my fingers as if it's not firing correctly. It's now difficult to turn over without kicking back, well with the bar off. Not had a chance to put the bar back on and try it again. Everything seems tight on the saw and it doesn't appear to be abused or used for any great length of time. any ideas.? Cheers.

It would appear photobucket now want $399 a year to share my photo's...Dont think so.

As far working at home. I dont have a garden and when i fire up the 2 stroke indoors this happens..

This is what i plan on making,, well these and other things from deadwood.

I have a bow saw, but need to cut some 8-10 limbs. Just 1" thick slabs for bases and i would like to at least gather around 15 or so to save me from another journey.

No climbing gear, but will have rucksack with chaps and visor and added wood pile on way out. I'll only need the fuel in the tank, possibly even a half tank. just a few quick cuts and i'm outta there. About 4 miles in total. Might take a bite of parachord just to bundle up limbs.

Yeah, just noticed the cs 2511 tes...looks ideal.

Most notable results so far is father **** himself coming back from LIDL. Chaga appears to be somewhat of a laxative.