cjdg
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Posts posted by cjdg
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Latest on this project. Flywheel off by removing the collet which cunningly had only two grub allen screws with the third non threaded hole being used to push out the collet. I remember now why I put two white lines on the used ones - Doh! Opened up casing to find it well out of shape and cracked. The option to take out the engine to get at the frame was considered for all of a micro second before being discarded. Will cut out bent parts and weld replacement in situ with a complete new "inner" liner of say 5mm steel also welded in on the bottom 30 degree segment and along up to the top of the chute.
A replacement roller box is well north of £1000 so it looks like some clever reaming and oversize threaded rod to get welded back in but there is not much room in the inside with the roller so cannot use a bolt as originally planned. That means a special two diameter threaded rod one to weld in and one to hold the pump.
Any other ideas welcome
Chris
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I put a new fan on a complete rebuild of this machine about four years ago. It has again disintegrated!
Question(s) 1. Is the cause of this likely to be user-related by putting stones or metal instead of timber? Seems unlikely as it is not on the cutting path. If not, what has caused this after such a short time? I would not expect this to be a service replaceable part but to last the lifetime of the machine. Any comments ?
Question 2. At the same time, I noticed that the threaded studs on the bottom hydraulic motor have pulled out of the cuboidal housing of steel despite being welded in last time. Is it time to buy a new plate steel housing or (and I am inclined to favour the latter) should I drill out the steel hole, weld in a new bolt rather than threaded rod with the bolt head set inside the steel and if necessary ground down slightly should it be needed for clearance (yet to be determined)
Question 3. How do I pull out the bearing on the main frame steel plate shown in the photo with the bearing puller which only fits on two of the three sides? What am I missing here?
Question 4. If it is the case that this is normally a life time part for the machine and it is not possible to damage it by abuse, what are my chances of the supplier replacing it FOC or at cost price?
Chris
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A relative newbie asking so be polite and patient
Sequoia IMG_8248 | Safe Tideway Rowing
ROWING.ATICS.CO.UKSee this Sequoia
The bottom section has been cut in one length about 4.5 m long and it is big and heavy.
There are two sections about 2 m long and the rest are chunks about 600 to 900 taken down in slices. I reckon they are only good for firewood unless sequoia is good for turning as some of the heartwood has a fantastic hue.
So the question is "Would it be worth bringing in a proper mobile mill and doing some cutting into thin sections or bringing in an Alaskan and DIY ? What is hewn / planked Sequoia worth?
Is it ok for furniture?
Anyone know its structural properties of it? From what I read on the internet it is much valued for both furniture and structures and is pretty difficult to get hold of.
Thoughts?
Chris G
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It appears that around my patch Wootton (the one near Oxford) / Cumnor etc an Avant and lots of other local guys have had stuff nicked - chain saws and the like. I have lost a nice Husqui pole saw and top notch Back pack leaf blower nicked in my totally isolated area at Youlbury - never had a problem before as it is right at the end of a long private road at a dead end. Just wondering if any other areas have had a blight of such thefts? Have any of you been offered cheap tools? If so please take a photo of the licence plates of those offering unless you know they are kosher. I am now going to have to spend over 10 grand on top of the range face recognition camera set up with vehicle registration recognition software from VL office to get to grips with this low life. I normally keep my shotgun stock away from the barrel hidden elsewhere in the house on firearms officer advice - perhaps it is time to reunite them!?
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Looking for a quick response to hire man and machine to take about 100 trees cut to varying lengths of max 6 m but mostly between 2 and 4.2 m Max diameter about 1.25 for the largest (very few of those) but average round about 900 mm from location to local store less than a mile away and all on private land. Day rate not a quote but have got free supply of red diesel and will provide food tea etc. Can accommodate overnight if needed. 07478 601456 or [email protected]
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Pryor & Rickett Silviculture
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Sorry to hijack a forum post but I am in need of finding Adam Todd. Anyone know if is is well and functioning as he is not answering his phone.
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Sorry to latch onto the back of this thread but I have the exact opposite problem. The lower roller bolts keep coming loose about every 5 to 10 hours of use. They work out a bit and slow then stop the roller from working. I have tried all sorts of Locktight / tite and in particular No 243. I am considering in my desperation using Araldite! Any ideas from this forum as to what to use?
Chris George
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Anyone out there within fighting range of OXFORD who knows of any competent person or firm that could set me up with, ideally, a second hand winch with all the hydraulics installed as it is clear to me that I (to put it politely) need guidance and at my time of life I would rather pay to get it done right.
Chris
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Thanks for the replies. I should have explained that I need the Avant with the "useful" attachments attached and to have the capacity of using the winch to get me out of trouble when I get stuck hence my comments of putting it on the back as recommended by Paul Helps. The sort of logs I will be hauling out and which may well get stuck in mud might well have the Avant moving instead of the log! If it is on the back, I can at least use the log forwarder grips to hang onto a tree when I pull the log out. I might need something that I can cart about the wood using my forwarder, grab or pallet forks and have it independently mounted to a fixed tree or stump. Never done this before hence the seeking of advice...
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Advice needed on winches to remove very large logs (up to 1 metre diam 4.5 m long "just" able to be picked up with the large Avant Grab without - too often! - tipping up) ideally using the Avant. The thinking is to put the winch on the back where the weights usually are perhaps by extending the mountings so as to get some weights and the winch on at the same time and using skids or similar to haul the logs over boggy and other ground where the Avant cannot reach.
It may be that the consensus of opinion is to have the which on a separate wheeled frame to attach to stumps.
What is the best machine and what power source? Battery does not sound feasible for all day work but might be ok for the odd job here and there. Having it on the Avant is a bonus as I have spent hours getting it out of bogs and soft ground with ropes bit at a time using the extending arm - very boring
Chris
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20 to 30 mm but not very wooden and strong so the Oregon tip sounds like it might be the ticket. Thanks.
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Dear All,
Heavy Duty Brushcutter
SALTYCORN.COM
Shape Up Your Yard! Is your lawn looking a little out of shape? Is your garden overgrown? Do your hedges need a haircut? The Heavy Duty Brushcutter is like having a lawn crew to...Came across this USA tool on a FB video that looks to be too good to be true, rather dangerously cutting down small trees and making mincemeat out of small brushwood. I need something for thick bamboo. The Stihl circular saw blade is useless. Anyone come across anything similar in the UK?
Any recommendations as to what would be best on my HD Stihl?
Am contemplating welding on a (sharp but damaged) chain (the undamaged part!) to an existing plate as a DIY.
Thoughts?
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Sorry about the photos' quality
Now for the questions. Gareth has suggested HP Lithium grease for the sliding sides of the feeder roller assembly
but what should I use for the bearing? It is a plain simple metal shell with a PTFE end stop.
I have copper grease and will be buying HP lithium. It seems to me that it is a slowly rotating floppy (loose) bearing so a gap filling thick grease that does not melt away would be favourite.
One of the splines is well worn and I am pretty sure it is the lowest one.
Can one swap top to bottom on the basis that the bottom gets more wear (indeed is that true?) or
Do you just wait till it goes and THEN replace it? or
Replace it now?
Just remembered - ran the machine for 15 mins as recommended by Dean and BOY was it smooth - not a hint of all the vibration pre repair so concluded that the flywheel was out of balance when I bought it which does not surprise me but I have done about 200 hours of productive work on it so no complaints
cheers all
Chris
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An update and further questions. Firstly, a BIG thank you to all helpers especially Gareth whose Green Plant service is exceptional.
Here are some photos of work to date which may be of interest.
Got the anvil blade distance pretty well spot on at 2.5 mm and 3 mm respectively. Used two shims which was the same as before.
First problem was to invert the anvil which was welded on.
Ground that off carefully but one of the screws (countersunk Allen key) ended up with a round socket so had to use a blow torch and club hammer.
The first was to loosen up the contact area and the second was to rotate the anvil off the tail end of weld which was not fully ground down to avoid grinding the metal. Judicious use of a centre punch at an angle got the Allen bolt moving sufficient to get a grip. Once out it was easy to clean it up and swap over and decided as it was all messed up with weld to tack it back on where the plate had been worn down.
Then fun and games with a large club hammer and a mate with a blow torch to move the outer casing back into shape.
Followed Dean's instructions with a slight modification in that I put on both blades and rotated the free floating flywheel to about 10 different positions to see if it "fell" to a natural low point but try as I might it stopped at any point in the 360 so considered it was OK.
Will post photos with this record and pose question in a new post
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Thanks for that advice. Rotor shaft is OK was a tight fit.
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Latest question please. The anvil on the main plate is a) welded on by the same sort of animal to which Dean referred. b) is well worn. I appear to have to choices:
1) build it up with a weld in situ then file or grind it to a roughly square section shape
2) grind off the weld, undo the nuts and buy a new anvil and put it on
I favour No 2) and if that is the consensus would it be sensible to animalistically tack it on with a weld as well? I can only presume that this was done (as it was for the anvils on the flywheel) due to experience of them coming off in the past
So Questions
Do I go for 1) or 2)
If I go for 2) do I weld it
What experience do others have of any such NEED for welding with the anvils coming off or bolts coming undone?
- Photos of works to date (for those interested) not in any particular order. 7943 7944 7942 are of the anvil
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I knew it had to be something mindlessly simple
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Brilliant! Thanks
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Latest development is that I have managed to clean off the machine and get it inside. Thanks are owed to Gareth who has supplied the parts for tomorrow (couriers permitting!). Dean said "After taking off the drive pulley,
I undid the four bolts securing the front bearing housing and withdrew the flywheel."
Well, I have just spent an hour and a half with a mate trying to do those six words "After taking off the drive pulley" !!!!!
There are supposed to be three grub screws holding in a conical taper lock bush and, as one was cross threaded, it was empty so that left two to undo opposite each other luckily. Once undone, logic dictates that you tap the pulley wheel off the taper onto the shaft in the direction of the flywheel away from the engine THEN pull the bush and key out towards the engine. The bush is well and truly "stuck" in.
I have tried a blow lamp both sides of the bush, heating the bush and wheel rather than the shaft. I have put on gallons of penetrating oil spray let it go in and then tried to shift it. I have tried shifting just the key with a long blunt screwdriver to loosen it off. I have tried levering it off with the bush as a last resort. Must be doing something that should be mindlessly simple wrongly! Any ideas chaps?
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Thanks Mick and other Chaps! Gareth, Thanks for the offer but before I read this, I rolled up my sleeves this afternoon and got as far as getting to the rotor wheel, so everything is off including the plate and roller assembly and am now going to take off the rotor wheel but not sure just how it is extracted. I assume that a little penetrating oil, an assistant to hold and put pressure outwards on both sides and then tap it to loosen it and pull it off? See photo below.
I see that the fans are sold in pairs and wondered if (as is said above it is a common fault) my original thought of only replacing one was misplaced and that it would be best to junk the sound one on there and put in two new ones? I am puzzled as to what the strain is on this fan as it is only driving air and not as if it is taking much load as for example the anvil and blades. Is it worth replacing all the bearings at the same time as they do not appear to be bad? Seems to me a small investment given the time taken to take it all to bits just to replace them. Thoughts?
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Big bang! so switched off PDQ. Sounded like a bearing (casing?) had gone with lots of heavy knocking but on looking at the Maintenance manual could not see this part shown in photo below. It has evidence of metal fatigue over 1/3 of the cracked casing (Image 78970. I suspect it is associated with a bearing housing. I need (I think) the following but subject to better advice:
1) a workshop manual if one such thing exits outside favoured manufaturers' listed agents
2) the spare part in question
3) advice as to what other parts I should sensibly replace since I have to take it to bits anyway (full set of bearings for the roller")
Question
The machine is in Oxford OX1. Does anyone know of any recommended service agent that can provide an estimate (it would not be easy to provide a quote till it is in bits) or guideline price and rates to take this off my hands. It is outside but at a push (literally) could just about be put inside.
Chris G
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On 25/12/2018 at 17:50, Stubby said:
Could be the fuel solenoid . The primer should feel resistance when full .
Does not appear to be VERY resistant but then it never did. It is certainly not "easy".
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On 25/12/2018 at 17:12, Toad said:
I think the pump should get to feel firm when you pump it.
Is it normal petrol pump fuel? Maybe chuck a bit in the cylinder and see if it will fire up just to rule out the spark, compression etc then concentrate on the feeling side?
That was my idea as well -works for a motorbike but was not sure of a small cylinder saw. In fact the fuel bubble is firm and appears to be pumping fuel
Ifor Williams Trailer Jockey Wheel bent Need advice on how to disassemble
in Maintenance help
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