cjdg

See photo 1 of the "bend" in shaft of JW (Went over a traffic bump that was in my own drive way that is a bit to abrupt and it dropped out and bent on the next bump!) I know idiot thing to do. See photo 2 of split pin having HAD to be drilled out as it would not knock out It is now 7 mm in diameter and I am not sure if that is more than the original but suspect it is I am unsure as to how to take the wheel handle off the top of the shaft as it is not rotating "clear of the wheel" (ie still linked) even after the removal of the split pin I conclude that, therefore, there is a flat to the threaded rod as well as a split pin as in screen grab (No 4 below) from an on-line Aussie video Photo 3 non circular receptor handle of another make of jockey wheel Photo 4 non circular threaded rod of another make of jockey wheel QUESTIONS 1) Given that the wheel cannot come off at the bottom due to there being no means of disassembly, am I right in thinking that the only way to get this off is to draw the threaded rod upwards out of the base of the wheel? 2) Is there a similar flat in the threaded rod on the Ifor Williams JW as shown in Ptoto 4 above? 3) If not, is it a matter of forcing the handle upwards now that the split pin has been removed? I suspect not as I have been fairly hard with a club hammer trying to knock it off from both sides. 4) Even if I do. manage to get it off it still will not be removable from the trailer unless I cut off and re weld the lower receptor for the anti spin spring connector which "seems" a rather drastic and, I hope, unnecessary procedure 5) Am I right in thinking that IF IT WAS NOT BENT one could simply unwind the whole top section out with handle on the top? 6) If so, what is the purpose of the split pin ? 7) If so, and the ONLY way to disassemble this is by unscrewing the bent threaded rod by force would it not be best to try to bend at least some of the bend out of both threaded rod inside and the outer casing ? 8) It would need considerable force carefully applied with a jig and suitable strong cramps What do any of you experts advise?

Latest on this project. Flywheel off by removing the collet which cunningly had only two grub allen screws with the third non threaded hole being used to push out the collet. I remember now why I put two white lines on the used ones - Doh! Opened up casing to find it well out of shape and cracked. The option to take out the engine to get at the frame was considered for all of a micro second before being discarded. Will cut out bent parts and weld replacement in situ with a complete new "inner" liner of say 5mm steel also welded in on the bottom 30 degree segment and along up to the top of the chute. A replacement roller box is well north of £1000 so it looks like some clever reaming and oversize threaded rod to get welded back in but there is not much room in the inside with the roller so cannot use a bolt as originally planned. That means a special two diameter threaded rod one to weld in and one to hold the pump. Any other ideas welcome Chris

I put a new fan on a complete rebuild of this machine about four years ago. It has again disintegrated! Question(s) 1. Is the cause of this likely to be user-related by putting stones or metal instead of timber? Seems unlikely as it is not on the cutting path. If not, what has caused this after such a short time? I would not expect this to be a service replaceable part but to last the lifetime of the machine. Any comments ? Question 2. At the same time, I noticed that the threaded studs on the bottom hydraulic motor have pulled out of the cuboidal housing of steel despite being welded in last time. Is it time to buy a new plate steel housing or (and I am inclined to favour the latter) should I drill out the steel hole, weld in a new bolt rather than threaded rod with the bolt head set inside the steel and if necessary ground down slightly should it be needed for clearance (yet to be determined) Question 3. How do I pull out the bearing on the main frame steel plate shown in the photo with the bearing puller which only fits on two of the three sides? What am I missing here? Question 4. If it is the case that this is normally a life time part for the machine and it is not possible to damage it by abuse, what are my chances of the supplier replacing it FOC or at cost price? Chris

A relative newbie asking so be polite and patient Sequoia IMG_8248 | Safe Tideway Rowing ROWING.ATICS.CO.UK See this Sequoia The bottom section has been cut in one length about 4.5 m long and it is big and heavy. There are two sections about 2 m long and the rest are chunks about 600 to 900 taken down in slices. I reckon they are only good for firewood unless sequoia is good for turning as some of the heartwood has a fantastic hue. So the question is "Would it be worth bringing in a proper mobile mill and doing some cutting into thin sections or bringing in an Alaskan and DIY ? What is hewn / planked Sequoia worth? Is it ok for furniture? Anyone know its structural properties of it? From what I read on the internet it is much valued for both furniture and structures and is pretty difficult to get hold of. Thoughts? Chris G

It appears that around my patch Wootton (the one near Oxford) / Cumnor etc an Avant and lots of other local guys have had stuff nicked - chain saws and the like. I have lost a nice Husqui pole saw and top notch Back pack leaf blower nicked in my totally isolated area at Youlbury - never had a problem before as it is right at the end of a long private road at a dead end. Just wondering if any other areas have had a blight of such thefts? Have any of you been offered cheap tools? If so please take a photo of the licence plates of those offering unless you know they are kosher. I am now going to have to spend over 10 grand on top of the range face recognition camera set up with vehicle registration recognition software from VL office to get to grips with this low life. I normally keep my shotgun stock away from the barrel hidden elsewhere in the house on firearms officer advice - perhaps it is time to reunite them!?

Looking for a quick response to hire man and machine to take about 100 trees cut to varying lengths of max 6 m but mostly between 2 and 4.2 m Max diameter about 1.25 for the largest (very few of those) but average round about 900 mm from location to local store less than a mile away and all on private land. Day rate not a quote but have got free supply of red diesel and will provide food tea etc. Can accommodate overnight if needed. 07478 601456 or [email protected]

Pryor & Rickett Silviculture

Sorry to hijack a forum post but I am in need of finding Adam Todd. Anyone know if is is well and functioning as he is not answering his phone.

Sorry to latch onto the back of this thread but I have the exact opposite problem. The lower roller bolts keep coming loose about every 5 to 10 hours of use. They work out a bit and slow then stop the roller from working. I have tried all sorts of Locktight / tite and in particular No 243. I am considering in my desperation using Araldite! Any ideas from this forum as to what to use? Chris George

Anyone out there within fighting range of OXFORD who knows of any competent person or firm that could set me up with, ideally, a second hand winch with all the hydraulics installed as it is clear to me that I (to put it politely) need guidance and at my time of life I would rather pay to get it done right. Chris

Thanks for the replies. I should have explained that I need the Avant with the "useful" attachments attached and to have the capacity of using the winch to get me out of trouble when I get stuck hence my comments of putting it on the back as recommended by Paul Helps. The sort of logs I will be hauling out and which may well get stuck in mud might well have the Avant moving instead of the log! If it is on the back, I can at least use the log forwarder grips to hang onto a tree when I pull the log out. I might need something that I can cart about the wood using my forwarder, grab or pallet forks and have it independently mounted to a fixed tree or stump. Never done this before hence the seeking of advice...

Advice needed on winches to remove very large logs (up to 1 metre diam 4.5 m long "just" able to be picked up with the large Avant Grab without - too often! - tipping up) ideally using the Avant. The thinking is to put the winch on the back where the weights usually are perhaps by extending the mountings so as to get some weights and the winch on at the same time and using skids or similar to haul the logs over boggy and other ground where the Avant cannot reach. It may be that the consensus of opinion is to have the which on a separate wheeled frame to attach to stumps. What is the best machine and what power source? Battery does not sound feasible for all day work but might be ok for the odd job here and there. Having it on the Avant is a bonus as I have spent hours getting it out of bogs and soft ground with ropes bit at a time using the extending arm - very boring Chris

20 to 30 mm but not very wooden and strong so the Oregon tip sounds like it might be the ticket. Thanks.

Dear All, Heavy Duty Brushcutter SALTYCORN.COM Shape Up Your Yard! Is your lawn looking a little out of shape? Is your garden overgrown? Do your hedges need a haircut? The Heavy Duty Brushcutter is like having a lawn crew to... Came across this USA tool on a FB video that looks to be too good to be true, rather dangerously cutting down small trees and making mincemeat out of small brushwood. I need something for thick bamboo. The Stihl circular saw blade is useless. Anyone come across anything similar in the UK? Any recommendations as to what would be best on my HD Stihl? Am contemplating welding on a (sharp but damaged) chain (the undamaged part!) to an existing plate as a DIY. Thoughts?

Sorry about the photos' quality Now for the questions. Gareth has suggested HP Lithium grease for the sliding sides of the feeder roller assembly but what should I use for the bearing? It is a plain simple metal shell with a PTFE end stop. I have copper grease and will be buying HP lithium. It seems to me that it is a slowly rotating floppy (loose) bearing so a gap filling thick grease that does not melt away would be favourite. One of the splines is well worn and I am pretty sure it is the lowest one. Can one swap top to bottom on the basis that the bottom gets more wear (indeed is that true?) or Do you just wait till it goes and THEN replace it? or Replace it now? Just remembered - ran the machine for 15 mins as recommended by Dean and BOY was it smooth - not a hint of all the vibration pre repair so concluded that the flywheel was out of balance when I bought it which does not surprise me but I have done about 200 hours of productive work on it so no complaints cheers all Chris