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Just had the chains referred to in a previous post repaired by a garden machinery specialist. the obvious to bent links have been fixed but the chap could not find the other defective ones despite my fixing tape on the links that were sticking in the bar round the sprocket Paid for them to be professionally sharpened Went back to put in the bar (now cleaned as advised on this forum) and Lo and Behold! still sticking. Aaaargh Took advice from a pro tree surgeon locally and he said when that happens to him he simply puts the chain in the saw and runs it hard to get it to fix itself ! There is a certain logic in this as the link has no VISIBLE bend or dink It may be that there is a machine that can measure this but for sure the operator will have to have good glasses! Any comments on what to do?

I must have been a muppet on dealing with a particularly large 5 stemmed sycamore and bent the bar which, unsurprisingly, now wanders on the cut. When I first measured the deformation it was about 2.5 mm and by judicious use of boot and a flat surface I have reduced this to "almost" straight BUT I am somewhat concerned as to how to get it fully straight and not overdo it and bend it the other way! To exceed Young's modulus by just the right amount I am thinking of using two plates of steel at each end about 2mm thick and pressing down on the centre with about 100 mm wide load eg a 4 x 2" timber and a lump hammer and see if that works. If not go up in 1 mm increments until it does Is there a professional way to do this in a better precision engineered way? Who would provide such a service? I am near Oxford See also the other post on sticky links 9C45F9A6-1BDB-409B-A945-8C894FFA4339.heic 5A596F21-F4AA-47D9-B968-16720F3DB433.heic 6948D16D-3A36-4D3D-94FB-2416454408BB.heic

Thanks all. I will stick with my eye and a flat file Chris

My mentor told me how to get the burrs off the sides of the chain bar with a flat file. He also showed how o level out the two sides at 90 degrees. I see on the many videos of maintaining a worn chainsaw bar that a tool is recommended. See the image below. Question 1 Is this what professionals use? I have never seen the three guys I know use one. Question 2 If so what is recommended model or make? Stihl, Husqi etc whack them out at over £30 but the one below is under £10 Seems a no brainer to go cheaper IF (and I suspect it is not) recommended by the professionals Chris

Apparently self seeded. What are they?

The saga continues.... Got the new switch and fitted it BUT although the key operates the ignition LIGHTS turning it to the right to get the starter motor to turn does not work The supposed diagram supplied by the supplier of the switch has different colours to the colours on the actual switch The earth and the power are black and orange that is pretty clear The other three colours on the machine itsefl are respectively Red / Grey (sort of grey) Purple which the diagram says goes to the ignition cut out switch and a component I cannot fathom on the diagram Orange/green/blue The diagram has Blue / red and Red The actual wiring is on the photo and I have downloaded the diagram as a pdf. not sure if it will work! 1 - K C A (91-02).pdf1 - K C A 1 - K C A (91-02).pdf(91-02).pdfam So my question(s) Assuming the orange and black are right What are the other colours? What colour is equivalent to the missing colours or was the replacement switch the wrong one? It was sent on the recommendation of a Countax expert Chris

The chain came off within the saw because I had not put it on properly and as it fell apart it hit the saw. It pains me to admit this but as George Washinton said.....

I have managed to mildly mis align three of these and take out a complete half axle on four Oregons that still have lots of life Anyone able to recommend a local chainsaw doctor (or indeed forester) in the Oxford area I am told that local Garden centres provide this service but I am somewhat wary of such chaps having twice been mislead by the so called engineers I find at such places I am in OX1 Yours Chris George

Dear Member L I am intrigued by you making up chains... I am a late coming amateur old git Took up chainsawing when I bought some woodland well north of age of 65 but a reasonably competent motorbike engineer. I have managed to mangle four chains. Three of them have no easily visible defect but when you put them on the bar they stick round the sprocket and it appears that one of the links is slightly bent The fourth one has an obvious half in half out central axle where one end has popped half out of the link. On a push bike (I do a lot of that) you get a chain link tool that pushes out the axle on the link and shorten the chain or put in a link. Question. Is there a service available for repairs of such defects in chains or a tool for DIY or is this simply too dangerous ? Chris George

Thanks for all this. I have ordered a new one from a different supplier Its £45 with the postage but it has taken me a day and a night of worry and lots of head scratching. Never for a moment suspected the ignition console but on looking at the back they are different.

ANSWER found The key replacement console - although looking identical - actually was a different wiring set up and so was dead as a do do It was found by (again) double checking with the old key console after charging up the battery. Now to find out which wire goes to which part of the new switch. Any countax experts out there with a clue as to how I find the right colours for the new switch? Thanks to those who put in answers

I will try the battery terminals Never thought of that Its obvious but they "look" good and are a robust clip on mechanism. However I will do that right now!

Yes to the sensor seat. I tested that by shorting out the connections See photo with blue wire

Tried to change the key starter lock mechanism today and shorted very briefly (small spark) as I fed the new lock into its hole. Went to start it and - nothing! dead as a Dodo. Assumed it was a fuse but on checking, it was not. Double checked the three fuses with a mulitmeter. All sound. Triple checked by putting in new ones. All dead. Checked the earth from the battery. OK. Checked the seat cut out switch (which should not affect the ignition lights - only the running of the engine. No ignition lights. Just to be sure put a wire across the two connectors. Still dead. Went to lunch to think. Still dead. It was working with the old switch (with a screw driver as lock was effed) and put that back in Still dead. Battery has 12.65 volts and is fine and fully charged. Checked with the manual and diagram for wiring to see if there is a hidden fuse somewhere else in the system. Cannot see that. Took the top off the fuse console to get direct access to the female fuse connectors and cleaned them up a bit and put in new fuses - still dead. Thoughts.... is there a hidden fuse? Unlikely... There must be something very simple that I am missing... Now pretty desperate as my tiny brain is hurting and its sunny and the lawn is telling me I want to be cut! Chris George CA966F2A-78AF-425A-85B9-9D03E6A10428.heic 7175BC2D-E57E-4063-AD9C-459B761F71E2.heic

Dear Anyone I have spent quite a lot of time on refurbishing this machine over the last 8 years and inter alia have replaced the fans (big cast ali ones), tapped and die some of the fixings the block. I "think" it might benefit from a new block but that is just a guess. I am looking for someone within fighting range of Oxford who has a small business with low overheads (and hence not too expensive) who can go through this machine and do the following which is a bit of a guess I suspect it may need a) a replacement block and rollers (I have drilled and re tapped the studs a couple of times) but you MIGHT be able to drill and re-tap with a slightly larger diameter stud b) total service of engine and all other parts c) check and, maybe, a new wiring harness or repair where needed with good insulation and connections d) repair and re-weld the safety bar (it does not comply with current legal requirements but "sod that" - it works) e) sharpen the cutting blades f) tidy up the shoot lever angle adjustment mechanism g) check wheel bearing etc etc and replace if needed f) clean out fuel tank and fuel lines and refill with clean diesel g) new diesel glow plugs if needed What I have done in the past Purchased a service pack of spare parts and carried out a service including the following: 1) Jet washed all oiled chippings, grease and other contaminants from engine and chassis 2) warm up and remove existing engine oil, safely contained and disposed at local refuse centre 3) drained down fuel, loosen and clean out water contaminant from fuel tank by loosening off chassis and jacking up tank fully to drain 4) new oil 5) change filters for fuel and oil 6) remove and replace electrical wiring clips to ignition switch 7) attempted to drill out one of two defective bolts broken off in place holding on wiring front plate. This failed and still needs to be done for both 😎 removed and cleaned out using tap and die the thread of the arm cramp securing the dolly wheel 9) repaired the clamp for the rear stand using 8mm bolt supplied by others 10) Install two new chipper blades 11) Test run engine 12) Adjust three drive belts’ tension 13) Lubricate grease nipples of chassis tow bar 14) Supply new fuel cap and lock Work carried out on 3rd and 4th October 2016 with part time assistance. PARTS Chipper Service and Fuel Cap - £61.80 Chipper Blades - £89.40 1) Investigation of fault with infeed rollers intermittently stopping - Found loose relay causing the fault - Secured relay in place with zip tie Work carried out on 10th October 2018 I have done the following similar work to this was all done in March 2019 Complete new fan and assembly and bearings https://arbtalk.co.uk/forums/topic/9965-timberwolf-fins-and-flywheel-bearings/ Did a replacement of those silly cast Ali fans ======= 23rd and 24th March 2021 – 7 Hours Remove Feed Roller and remove blades and sharpen, replace onto new roller and fit assembly. Remove and fit new starter motor. Remove battery and charge. Collect new solenoid valve. Remove Feed in/out solenoid and valve and replace with new one. Tested all good. PARTS £150 I may be that someone out there is interested and if so let me know otherwise I will go to Mr Scot (with whom I spoke today and was most helpful in suggesting a possible part exchange) Over to you guys! Chris George