lewisyounger16

I'll be honest I can't believe I didn't pick that up earlier. It felt like it had the same amount of compression as my ms260 and that is a weapon. Had the running issue again, had to richen the h screw again until it cleared up, might buy an ultrasonic cleaner and try a carb clean like that.

I was thinking something like that don't worry haha!

Nothing makes me happier than just pulling it and pulling it all night long.

Turns out I was reading the inside of the gun son which is mpa, outside is psi and it has around 160-170 psi

I'll check my ms260 and my 026 at the weekend and compare. I gave it about 5 pulls, normal pills not especially yanking on it

It's running now, turns out the carb was pretty much blocked with something as the little strainer mesh was missing. Replaced it and then ran the saw up and richened the h screw until it sorted itself out. Need to get it running until its hot now. I'll check another saw, I'm using a gunsons gauge with the valve on the tip, pull it over until it stops moving the needle.

New filter. Always a new filter. Good to know about the swelling though.

I was put off by those when researching as you could allegedly damage a transfer or something if a stone snags them.

I did my best, used brick cleaner to remove the aluminium transfer then lightly sanded with fine wet and dry and finished with a bit of scotchbrite. Honed as best as I could, it didn't look awful.

It was at around 50 with the knackered piston and rings, I am assuming (maybe wrongly) that the new piston rings need to bed in before the compression rises accordingly. It does sound like an air leak, I think I will pressure test it again just to make sure. One thing I didn't do was whilst testing turn the crank I don't know it that's a correct method or not.

Good god I hope so. Worth noting that the crank side is okay, I fitted a new bearing and a new oiler. It ran for a good 25 minutes in the wood fine and dandy cut lovely, then acted as if it was running out of fuel and then this problem started.

Think it's built in to the carb manifold, I couldn't see any faults with the manifold, but when idling I sprayed some carb cleaner behind the carb as best I could and it would stall. Which makes me think that the manifold is compromised. However I would have though the pressure and vac test would have picked that up.

Came to me "no spark" Turns out it was a straight fuel. Saved the cylinder, new meteor piston and caber rings great. Pressure and vac tested @ 10psi for 10 minutes diagnosing a leaking deconp valve, new valve, fixed tests passed. Compression tested at 120 psi. New rubbers and diaphragms in carb, new fuel lines top and bottom. New plug. Ran it into wood and it was fine for about 15 minutes then started to not pick up on the revs from idle without bogging down and stalling, (that's when fuel lines were replaced after this) Saw will pop on choke and run on half choke until flicked off, then will idle and eventually die, but will not rev unless the trigger is pulsed. Not sure what else to try it's doing my head in, what I thought was a bargain saw is being a total pig.

A week or so ago I put a 10mm hole in a 2013 ms201t, removed the limiter and turned the H screw counter clockwise about half a turn. I'm just concerned that's the bit I might be wrong with, I searched the Web and found that a 201t stock h screw position is 2 turns out, is that right? And a muffmod one will need to be slightly rich, so does 2 and a half turns out seem right? Seems to sound okay at WOT with a bit of 4 stroking, I'm concerned it isn't tuned right, but it picks up from idle okay and revs well.

I smell an intake manifold being needed at some point.