neiln

I happen to live in a bit of South London with copious oak trees and generally get loads.  My stacks are probably 70-80% oak currently. I'd prefer a bit more softwood but you take what comes.  It is however IME, the most reliably very easy splitting wood and easiest green.  It does burn hot if well seasoned though, it needs several logs on at once. 3 smaller pieces will burn easier than 2 bigger pieces.

XP is fully synthetic too.  I've heard it's a very very good oil.

2 hours ago, Dan Maynard said:

Surely he doesn't need the stabiliser with Aspen? I thought motomix has ultra oil in, interesting if it's not.

I think it's probably got the ultra, as I think that's the fully synthetic.

6 hours ago, pleasant said:

If you decide to buy the 'neat' 4-stroke Stihl motoplus4 or Aspen 4, then at least you have options to dispense it for use in both 2 or 4 stroke machinery- however use a decent 2-stroke synthetic oil with your mix, such as the Green Stihl HP (not the ultra) oil, as this is the oil Stihl automatically add to their pre-mix 2-stroke fuel, as it has a stabiliser added, whereas the cheap Red version or the more expensive Ultra version doesn't

Isn't the Stihl green semisynthetic? 

If using an alkylate fuel, would a fuel stabiliser not be pointless? There are no aromatics to gum up, or ethanol to separate.

7 hours ago, doobin said:

Would plastic piling be acceptable? Could just knock it in along his boundary with fairly small kit. 

When my insurance were looking at it, it was concrete piles and a copper mesh.  Don't know the details, just they it was going to involve digging much of the garden up and cost a lot.

4 hours ago, doobin said:

So there we are, it's not that simple. Put in a root barrier and tell them to whistle Dixie.

OP would need deep pockets for the root barrier, a continuous physical barrier down to the depth, or probably below, the depth roots were found at.

OP also said the building was on 1.3m deep foundations.  That's deep for what I assume it's a single or two storey  building, very deep.  I wouldn't leap to shoddy building.  Pseudo acacia are a known problem tree, like oak, for causing desiccation, it's not a huge tree but it is close to the building and roots found.  The evidence would seem very strong to me.

1 hour ago, doobin said:

Is it really that simple? The tree roots could all be on his side, but the water they absorb causing subsidence- due to shoddy building work- after the tree was there first!

OP said test pits and bore holes had been done to take soil samples and roots found.  While I too would have thought desiccation could extend beyond the roots, when I was in a similar situation and discussing with engineer and arborist, I was told desiccation beyond the roots was minimal.  Legally though, if op kept the tree roots to their own property any remaining desiccation and damage would not be their responsibility.

We are talking about a pseudo acacia here.  Not the prettiest of trees, not a native tree and not a long lived tree.  It's not a tree I'd go into bat for.

35 minutes ago, FBNK said:

Hi Neil, Thank you for your response. 

Next door neighbours insurance have consulted an arboriculture company who have said that "given the movement recorded to date, if new growth is allowed to develop in 2023 there is a high and foreseeable risk of further movement/damage occurring and our position remains that the tree should be removed as soon as possible."

We are attached to the tree and it gives privacy to many of the flats in the surrounding area. Do you know who would be responsible for putting in a root barrier, would it be our neighbour with the subsidence issues or ourselves? Have you ever been in a situation where insurance companies have covered this?

Thanks again for your help

 

 

You are responsible.  Your tree's roots are trespassing when they leave your property and consequently you are liable for any damage they cause.  The insurance companies really really don't like to do it, but can take you to court for the costs of all repairs.  They are offering to pay to remove the tree as it's the best solution for their insured property, quickest and cheap for everyone.  They don't have to offer to pay though, it's your tree and your responsibility.

I strongly urge you to think of the neighbours, who have a house being damaged, significantly affecting it's value.  It will be incredibly stressful for them.  If you pursue keeping the tree, you'll need very very very deep pockets.

Get it split and stacked, drying for next winter. It'll be a wholly unsatisfying experience if you try and burn it this winter.

Maybe, depending on location and so on, if you stack the soft separate and in a good spot, it may be good enough by about February,v worth a try but don't bank on it 

Crown reduction will have an immediate affect upon the water the tree tales up so if subsidence movement was seen this year, a year later, it's not enough.  You could potentially, depending on layout, find other solutions, like root barrier. They will be very much more costly though. I'd strongly suggest you take the tree down.

5 hours ago, Paul in the woods said:

The instructions say 20cm I think. I would also wonder about a hearth, even if it doesn't need one the first time a burning ember falls onto the floor you'll wish you had something.

Yes I'm assuming glass hearth, the stove looks like it wouldn't need more than that

Is that window sill material?  And the skirting? Both are possibly too close but especially the sill.

Had evening fires about 6 or 8 times so far. Still very mild and most of those have been 'shall we?' moments.  The wood is free though so no issue to use it.

thanks Steve.  So yes it works but it may take time.  if you make your site as attractive as possible, easy access, take softwood, take chip even and make it easy to find, it should help.  Which reminds me i should change th photo on mine....current one of a few rounds may give a false impression i can't deal with big loads,  i should change it fo some from back in spring when i had 6 transit tipper loads in a week....that worked out at 12 m3 and all the wood i wanted this year.  my lawn looked like a scene from Big Timber!

I just looked at my listing, I was trying to find the data on views/when I created it but couldn't find it.  I think I had the listing a couple of years, maybe 3+ before I got a call and got used.  It's a lot of luck.  I've done better by talking with guys I've seen working nearby.

Once you've made the first contact and got on somebody's radar you'll get more.

Yes but I suspect it's empty inside, no baffles.  I thought the hutzl/Farmertec muffler was already just an empty box.  If it is, you can just drill a 8-10mm hole in it for extra noise and desrestricted exhaust

sorry for all the questions.  in that youtube he says pacman type but is that standard or small?  although i didn't notice a slot/spline....hmm, one of these? 

3X Carburetor Adjusting Tool Screwdriver 2 Cycle For Poulan Husqvarna

WWW.EBAY.CO.UK

---

LED String. 1 Double D Screwdriver. 1 Pac Man Screwdriver. 1 Splined 21T Screwdriver. Application: Carburetor repair tools. Steam brush. Makeup brush. Motor Drive Module.

yep I need a tool, and although my saw was just stalling, going by what he says its fairly common that they need a tweak.  

yeah...checking the manual it says only the low, labelled S, is adjustable.  that needs remedying.  Is there a way or does it mean new carb?.....or is it a case of a special tool....ahhh i bet it is...a screwdriver like thing with a socket fitting not a blade?

thanks shavey.  my 2 year old settled quickly so I dashed out and dismantled the plastics carefully....took more off than needed just to be sure so ended up with the recoil off and the metal plate on the clutch side....but got it apart without breaking anything or losing anything.  with the plastics off, including gently pulling off the intake box/boot, it was easy to get to the elbow and reinstall the impluse line, yay!  thanks all.

Git it all back together....only missed the spring for the run switch and had to remove the plastics again partly...but then all back together, nothing left over.  good.  Had a quick peek at the carb and i was imagining it, the gauze is there. it looks clean so I've reinstalled, and when i get a chance at a sensible hour I'll see if it runs, if it doesn't I'll go at the carb again.

high screw.  its not a screw....its got some limiter screw thing.....with the carb out i could see no way to move the screw at all... err...?  if i get round to de catting it I'll need to richen it up so wtf do I need to do to that screw?

just realised why you think its short...from my photo.  i'd pushed it out the way/through the plstic bulkhead before refitting the carb.  it'll pull back fine.....once i've reattached the other end

first time apart...  i suppose its possible i've missed it falling out/waived the carb about and dropped it while i was focusing on the diaphragm in my other hand....didn't think so though....and when i looked in the well to check it was clean it was still full of petrol so i can't have waived it about....odd.  looks like I'll have to get one of them then.

right....so lots of plastics to strip off to get to the side of the cylinder somewhere fiddly....okay....a PITA task but should be ok if i take it steady and ensure i don't get frustrated!

thanks spud

thank you hilly....so pretty much where my fing is pointing in the last photo....cripes.   top plastics...the one around the spark plug and over th top of the cylinder...plus the bulk head the line goes through? Oh hang on...pimer bulb, ...so the whole black plastic top....so chainbrake handle off and main handle too I think to get that off...... heck its going to be a fiddle to get at i can see....oh dear.  oh well.  

I guess i jst need to take it slow and steady....glad i chose to leave it tonight...not like me, i hate walking away from a job

thanks spud, yes the saw is only about 16 months old.

ok so 1st problem, good, yes lack of fuel at WOT.  i will get some carb cleaner and repeat clean although it looked spotless.  if that doesn't work I'll try the H andLscrews as you suggest, ta.  

Just realised, there was no strainer under the pump diaphragm.  Is that possible?  should I get one?  is it in a service kit?

implus line,  ok, that problem i created in beling a bit heavy handed as I pulled on it to get it off the carb, I tugged it off the far end.  I can pull it right out through the plastic bulkhead now.  it isn'tlong, errm...4 inches maybe?  cold it be in to pieces?  Anyway....where have i pulled it off from?  the case somewhere..but how the **** do i get to it?  please tell me I don't need to strip the saw to bits and take the jug off!  I'm feeling I may have to.

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