R Mac

could have cut that tree down quicker with a silky! now if your going to be a dumb ass redneck pecker do it right, use tannerite:thumbup:

 

like this?

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Of course it is ...

As a decent , kind , hard working , law abiding citizen from whom do I seek justification ?

So long as I'm getting above 5 I'm happy enough!!

 

Yes, back leaning and back weighted. Felled straight in to aid snedding. Round about two feet diameter on the hinge (just over), don't think the back cut is that high?

 

Not sure why some pictures are the wrong way round.

There's nothing wrong with it from a felling point of view, but without knowing the situation and looking at it from a textbook standard (which is about all anyone can do based on a pic) I thought the back cut looked a fair bit higher than the base of the face cut. A fault of mine TBH, was told never under but not much more than 1-2" above.

It it was my hinge I'd be happy with it

6/10 . But + 2 for using a Husky and - 3 for a Stihl. - 1 for dog rough wedges but + 3 for putting that up on a Sunday night.

 

Bob

+1 for wedges that get used

7/10? Face cut looks a bit deep. Did you make a high back-cut to get the jack in place?

I wear Oregon Yukon when on the ground which is probably 75% of the time, mainly forestry they're surprisingly hard wearing, light and quite loose fitting so great mobility (although the smallest size they do is bigger than what I'd normally wear)

Surprisingly I have more damage on my Stein Kreiger climbing trousers, the only damage on the Oregons is a small hole worn in one pocket where I was carrying a penknife.

£65 Here, Yates Garden Machinery, ebay

Reckon a 660 engines and big expansion pipe is the way to go:thumbup:

Sod that, Pulse Jet is the way to go

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Tough terrain then. I broke them in helping manage veteran oaks in woodland whose understorey is 4'+ brambles and fallen trees/branches. I was dragging brush out for later chipping or stacking bigger stuff for habitat all in the brambles.

They might be fine then, I've mainly been in spruce plantation dealing with windblown, brambles as you'd guess, exposed roots, holes full of peaty water etc, not a walk in the park either

Darned comfy. I also have a pair of Stein Somethings which I can only wear with ease for half a day.

The Waldlaufers are good all day. I'm a groundie 95% of the time but have worn the Meindls with spikes and didn't have a problem.

I wouldn't doubt that for a second, the Waldlaufer/Woodwalker look just like Meindl's hiking boots, I'd have a pair but I don't think they're quite stiff enough for the terrain I spent most time in. look like a very good all rounder though

I agree they are a personal thing, like a harness, so it's useful to know if they're falling apart prematurely or horribly flawed in the design, regarding comfort.

Interesting what you say about Airstream boots. I don't fit Hiax well but love Meindel. I have colleagues who are opposite. It seems if you fit Meindel you won't fit Hiax.

Strange, although they aren't chainsaw boots, I have a pair of Meindl Borneo hiking boots and 2 pairs of Haix German army issue, hiking type and combat type and don't find any difference comfort or fit wise.

My chainsaw boots are Stihl Advance, not a climbing boot really as they have a very bulky toe box although they're great on spikes, most of my time is on the ground or spikes so not a problem. They're really tough, waterproof and breathable thanks to Gore-Tex but definitely one to try before you buy as they run about half a size on the large side IMO. If I had to guess I'd say they were actually made by Meindl.

Personally I like my boots to be all leather with as few pieces as possible to make the upper, may try the Pfanners when the Stihls need replaced.

You know what people are like scbk.

Burning is totally legal, but it can't be 'nuisance causing' and green conny produces a lot of smoke.

I'm with Ben, extra bodies and a second truck to keep the flow going.

Start at the top and keep the brash drag in the duff so you needn't hammer the lawn further down.

14' is pretty wide, there will be some volume.

Add the required bodies to keep the chipper fed and you'll smash it in a day.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk

Agree with you there, I feel that getting the stuff up to the chipper is the easy part, it'll take some time to cut it down for a chipper unless there's a good sized chipper on site, either way chipping it all will be slow and unless there's a fairly large chip truck it'll be quite a few runs to dump chip. There might not be much room for 2 trucks/trailers so if there's only one I'd drag a load up 1st, reduce, chip and take the 1st load away, while the 1st load is being dumped drag up and start to reduce down a 2nd load ready for when the transport returns. Hired in cranes/tractors/quads are only going to be sat around waiting between loads and the meter will still be running so to speak.

Without having had a look in person I'd say minimum is 2 trailers, one vehicle towing, a good sized chipper, say 8" and a winch either portable or truck mounted to get the stuff up to the chipper in as large a piece as possible. I reckon 2 days minimum if there isn't room for a large squad to actually work without getting under each others feet or being stood around too much. IMO it'll come down to how quickly you can chip a load, dump it and get back on site.

I'd go for smallish scale and slow and put the cost in time rather than large scale equipment that has to be hired in, time doesn't appear to be an issue if the house is going to be empty for 8 months or so.

Aye sure, give me a minute or two

Ok here you go. The big one is 120l and measures 19" across, the small one is 60l and measures 15" across, works better with the hole for the choker off-set like the small one.

Petrol engined portable winch, e.g. PCW5000 or similar.

How many trees in total? Do you intend chipping and if so where? garden or driveway. You say they're 14' wide and the gates are under 3' wide, do you intend snedding the branches off in the garden then dragging the stems and brash up separately?

It's obviously possible but not easy to suggest a method without a bit more info. Obviously if you could get the entire tree up to a driveway or yard in one go that would be the quickest, then decide where you go from there.

Thanks guys.

I've been using it a bit, but without the skidding cone. I was reluctant to spend the extra £180, might might just bite the bullet!

 

I've got those 70kn pulleys. They're great. I'm using 11mm line coz that's what I had a 200m reel of, sat around, but thinking of getting a length of thicker stuff, as I find the 11mm gets snagged up a bit on the capstan.

IMO £180 is way overpriced for the skidding cone, looking at some of the videos on Youtube half time it's getting dragged along beside the log due to the hole for the choker being central and the choker is running off center which pulls the cone out of position.

What's the maximum diameter of the logs you working with?

I have one, not much to say apart from get yourself some pulleys and slings to double line, re-direct and as lifters etc. I use the ISC 70kN ones and 3t strops from Handy Straps, also get some steel rigging carabiners or bow shackles to match.

I've used mine extracting windblown from a spruce plantation with no vehicle access, on a double line it'll pull an 18 meter length of what was probably 20 - 24 meter Spruce before I took the top off.

Anything you can do to reduce friction will help, if you don't have a skidding cone you can make them out of blue plastic barrels, one thing I found was that if you make a skidding cone cut the hole for the choker near the edge on the end rather than the center, if you cut it in the center as the line tightens the choker tends to pull the cone out of position.

Apart from that they're a fantastic bit of kit.

One offs are ok as you say. You can make a decent return on them.

Also try to price everything by the job not by the hour.

Definitely, and bring a load of kit as it always looks impressive even if it doesn't get used

Thing is with gardening you're doing what people haven't the time/can't be arsed to do.

 

You'll always be up against rock bottom money.

Apart from when it's a Leylandii hedge, previously topped then neglected so it need's 7+ foot off it to get it back where it was. Gardenguy can't do it as his Halfords trailer (if he even has one) or the owners wheelie bin is too small and the cord on his hedge clipper won't stretch from the owners power socket to the top of the hedge.

I hate doing them but usually easy money as the owner sees it as a one-off (having failed to learn from his mistake 1st time round)

Errr your right, I stuck a jocky wheel on mine to help shift the lump about.. I then found I could pull it up the trailer with a rope or winch..

I'll have to come up with something as physically I can pull the chipper onto the trailer (which surprised me) the only problem is holding it while I get up on the trailer. I had been pulling it on using 2 pulleys while my wife guided/supported it, not ideal as a. she's only 5' tall and b. sometimes she's too busy (or so she claims )

How ya doin mate-aye yer right...wouldnt be fun otherwise..

Healing up nicely after getting my head bit off last week (or was it the week before) by someone for some reason

I dont think there is a right or wrong answer here

Don't be absurd, this is an internet forum, it can only be right or wrong

The problem I see with a winch (or pulleys/ropes like I had been using) is that the chipper only has a single axle so it actually needs supported as it goes up the ramps. A full width ramp/tailgate is a different kettle of fish but I think to work properly you'd need a jockey wheel on the chipper (like some of the Jo Beau mini chippers)

Using that theory, if you run a 20:1 mix, you are likely to lean seize the engine:confused1:

Not if said engine is designed to run 20:1, I only mentioned I'd heard it.

The real theory is you are keeping the same amount of air and are replacing a small amount of fuel with oil. The oil will help lube the engine and we are talking small percentages and is unlikely to make much difference to the tune of the carb.

 

Leaning the engine usually refers to when the amount of Fuel/oil is reduced giving a larger percentage of air causing a significant rise in temperature due to the extra air making the fuel burn hotter and faster. In your example, you are keeping the same ratio of fuel/oil mix and air and it is just the ratio of fuel and oil that has changed!

Yeah I understand what running lean is and what the result will be.

Does this class as leaving the scene of an accident? Or does it only count when being driven? What will the charge be? Prosecution wise.

 

Good luck! :-)

Probably sweet FA, a similar thing happened to a mate a few years back, had his motorbike parked outside a shop, woman in a 4x4 reversed back and tipped the bike over cracking fairing etc, stopped, got out, looked at the damage and drove off. There were a couple of witnesses but for some reason my mate didn't get their details and although one worked in the shop next door she decided she didn't want to get involved. He phoned the police who got there eventually (the station was about 300 yards away) after driving past him twice while he's stood with a crash helmet waving at them.

Long story short, driver was uninsured, Police done her for no insurance and done damn all about the fact she'd caused damage to his bike and left the scene. After about 6 months constantly contacting and getting strung along by plod he gave up as it simply wasn't (to him anyway) worth the grief.

I personally have little faith in the forces of law and order, to protect and self serve about sums it up IMO.

For the sake of my blood pressure I think I'll leave it at that

Both wheels

Sound

Jo Beau do appear to try to offer something different (and useful) and it looks like there are a variety of upgrades/options you can add to the base machine.

Nice

[ATTACH]214877[/ATTACH]the brake on the M400 is beautiful

Clever idea but does it operate on both wheels? I'm thinking if it operates on one wheel only surely the chipper will simply rotate around the locked wheel and drop off the side of the ramps, no?