johnw_123
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Everything posted by johnw_123
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nitromors is not what it used to be...i use starchem synstrip its about £25.00 for 5l. it's the only stuff that still works.
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thats probably my next port of call...or just get a new carb off ebay at least the replacement carb will have low and high speed adjusters
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there is no gauze(i take it you mean spark arrestor)
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no screws to adjust as there is only a idle screw
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hi. i have a fs 400 that has developed a problem. first started to bog down after about 5mins of use, checked for spark before starting and after and all is good. so cleaned the carb and now it will start fine and idle as it should but on wide open throttle it bogs down unless i turn the choke lever so it is just off the full choke postion and then it will run fine (idle and full revs)...also replaced the primer bulb and lines....any ideas thanks john.
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also only accept cash...and offer a discount if they buy out of ebay.
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had the same thing happen to me as well...now if i sell i list as "buy it now with a best offer" pick up only and put my phone number in the listing. takes a bit longer to sell sometimes but its the best way for me.
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just an update..bought s/h quantum engine and swapped the sump's over and all is good. even the crank bottom was the same...but thanks for making me aware of all the differences.. the worm gear for the side pto is on the camshaft for this engine. all the best john.
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theres never a easy fix is there... think i will wait for a complete engine to fit. again thanks..john.
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thanks for the info... what i have is a good old hayter 56 with a quantum engine with side pto but the cylinder and piston are badly scored beyond repair/rebore. looked on ebay for parts but with no part numbers from the sellers i can not cross Reference. been offered a Briggs and Stratton Quantum XTE 50 and im now wondering if i can fit my old quantum sump with the pto to the xte. thanks again for any info. john
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HI. can any one tell me do all quantum engines share the same parts ie: crankcases and pistons. thanks john.
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thanks for the heads up..managed to grab the last one! ps seller also has a stihl edt7 for sale.
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i had the same thing happen awhile ago it turned out to be be gummed up piston rings...just a thought.
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did not want to put any names......but yes he is one of the good ones on ebay.
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thanks for all your input guys... i normally use L&S Engineers for all my parts but i bypassed them ths time and bought them off ebay from a good uk seller... just looked on l&s and there only about £15.00 more for both bearings...ebay seller has offered a refund so ordered new ones from l&s. thanks again john.
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Other than that - use a reputable manufacture of bearings or OEM! would you know where to go for bearings for a ms260... the flywheel side is not a problem but the clutch side is not so easy to find...it was either original or cheap chinese. thanks john.
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thanks spudulike. i would like to put it down to duff bearings rather than my mechanics:blushing: i have the damaged bearing in front of me with the original stihl one, the picture shows the stihl one has has a much better inner cage. thanks again john.
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agree inner cage has broke up.... no i did not tap crank at both ends.... i had the crank in the freezer over night. once i put the bearings in the cases then warmed them up wth a heat gun the crank slid in very well and also lubed the bearings(fitted the right way round), once i rebuilt the engine the crank was turning freely. john
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hi. can anyone advise me on why new non-stihl crank bearing would fail the way it has, i rebuilt the saw today and was running through a few heat cycles when it locked up. here is a picture of the bearing thank you john.
