flatyre

sheds starting to fill up, need to start splitting it soon

took down a eucalyptus yesterday evening and returned today to remove the rings, totally covered in wasps, hundreds of them, mainly around the phloem, is this common?

Sorry to drag up an old issue but my newly acquired tipper has a steel box section frame with 8x4 ply sheets fitted to the original steel dropsides. The dropsides have seen better days to be honest and the greedy boards looks rather home made. It works but i'd like something a bit more professional looking so will be changing it. Rather than start messing with the ram mounts and hinges, i'd like to keep the original floor base as it will save time and being original, I know it is strong enough. But add fresher looking aluminium dropsides and removable greedy boards which one man can do easily. I'll be looking out for an existing body for the sides, and a local firm sell 8x4x3mm aluminium sheets for £80+vat as well as extruded aluminium box section for the frames. Would anyone who has a professionally made alloy tipper body be able to tell me what grades of materials were used, or even anyone who built their own which is still going strong? Really need a closer look at one but there aren't any around here.

6 hours ago, dig-dug-dan said:

The relay woukd be specific to the tipping gear manufacturer. What make is the vehicle?

Thanks for the replies folks, its a 2003 Citroen Relay2.5  crewcab tipper.

Hey folks first of many jobs to do on the new wagon, two way tipper ram goes up fine but won't come back down unless you put a battery directly to the terminals on the pump, been told its the relay but can't find one specific to the van, is there such a thing as a universal relay that would do the trick?

Thanks Joes but i'm in northern Ireland, though for some random reason my brother is getting married in Devon in September so if the Transit is still there I might be interested in driving it home!, In the meanwhile I just picked up a 2003 2.5 Citroen Relay crewcab tipper with removable greedy boards, needs a few small jobs done and a bit of welding, but has good potential, anyone have any experience of these motors as an arb truck?

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Has my LDV forever, I bought one with very low miles and it has served me well. It's a tricky one because it never breaks but image is so important these days I'm starting to feel like a ***** surrounded by guys with truck on hp haha

to be honest i'd say stuff what other people in the business think, its what the customer thinks that's important, and in my experience Joe Public neither know nor cares about vehicle makes, models, or age. As long as its clean, reliable, and respectable looking, that's all that matters, everything else is just vanity.

probably too big but still, what were you thinking?

Where are you in the country? I've got an Iveco daily double cab and Toyota dyna tipper both looking for new homes but haven't got around to advertising. They are a bit rough cosmetically and might need a bit of spannering but both have decent chip boxes and are ready to earn money. I'm in Cheshire, not far from Crewe if of interest.

Northern Ireland, but just out of curiosity how much was on the Iveco?

Hey folks need a tipper asap unfortunately I've had a number of big money outputs recently so am looking at an old LDV or smiley transit, basically the sort of thing you folks were running twenty years ago. Anyone have experience of running either machine in the business and could one still be a viable workhorse until funds are available for something fresher?

thanks folks not as easy as I thought, looks like i'll probably just replace the whole pipe:thumbdown:

spalted beech.....or fossilised dinosaur poo?

hey folks the brake pipes on my old van are badly corroded where they meet the flexi hoses, rather than replace the whole lot as it involves removing the diesel tank and loads of under body guards, I was hoping to cut the bad section out and fit some new flared pipe, can these be used to tie the old and new sections of brake pipe safely?

Metric Brake Pipe Line Joiner Connector Male Straight Union 10 x 1 mm 3/16"

agree about the fiskars for splitting but as said any cheap axe will do for kindling, and the biggest gnarled log you have for chopping on, the tyre is a good trick too. As for a saw horse I have a cheap Mitox which I modified and it works well for smaller stuff.

Reggie Moore, Moore Horticulture Moore Horticulture Equipment home Just Outside Carryduff.

If possible deal with Reggie Junior as Reggie senior is an awkward old s**t

much appreciated folks. thanks

cylinder hasn't been removed yet so will have the whole saw spotless with the airline before removing it, I'll keep an eye out for either an oem piston and barrel or a meteor one. much appreciated.

Hey folks was at the local garden mechanics on Friday afternoon ordering up some lawnmower cables, having a nosey through the scrap pile and found a 365 special with a knackered piston and barrel, Also missing the exhaust, petrol cap, and a couple of av mounts. However the saw looked like it had seen very little use, not a scratch on the plastics, good clutch, sprocket, chainbrake and starter. Gave the guy £20 for it as thought it would make a good repair project and I need a backup mid range saw for the 560. Was thinking of just sourcing an original 365 piston and barrel but now I've discovered this thread its got me thinking of going for a 372 top end and modded muffler. Is it a straight swop or more to it?

Those chancers at photobucket now want $299 to host photos linked to third party sites which means any photos I have on here can't be viewed. What do you folk use to store and link photos to arbtalk?

Loved books about explorers since I was a kid, not the hyped up drama queens of today, don't have much time to read during the summer so have "The Life and Explorations of Fridtjof Nansen" printed over a hundred years ago, on the shelf waiting for winter and warm toes in front of the wood stove:thumbup1:

nothing like the smell of a hundred year old book!

phone every company you can find, let them know your phoning around. get the best price you can, each five minute phone call could save you £50. If the owner agrees to go with your best offer throw in a little extra like a couple of free cuts, something which won't cost you much but save the customer a lot, if they're happy then you retain their custom, if not, you don't want their custom. Win win situation:thumbup:

Good input Spruce Pirate, I'm still coming to terms with the fact that I could be found guilty for felling trees on my own land. If i'm reading this thread correctly then I may be found guilty of something because by removing trees from my property I risk the trees on a neighbouring property? Say I had a big Conifer on the edge of my property which was robbing my neighbours garden of sunlight, so they ordered me to have it removed. But they had a prize Acer growing in the shadow of it. Once removed the acer will be exposed to damp ground conditions and high winds, and we know what happens to delicate acer leaves in high winds. How are you supposed to win?

proper fake grass is about three inches thick, its bonded to a solid surface like concrete or tarmac, then lorry loads of sand are brought in and brushed over it to fill up between the fibres so only about half an inch of "grass" is left. It was never designed for gardens. I sometimes get asked to quote for artificial grass, I just say no.

By law I think the offender (that's you) are allowed to get your own quotes for the repair. Modern artificial grass is nothing more than green plastic carpet. I know this because I used to install the real stuff. Not quite the same scenario but recently my dad damaged a garden wall because he forgot to put the handbrake on, car rolled down the hill and hit the wall, owner got it fixed by a "mate" who was a painter and decorator (not a bricklayer), who the charged £1,400 for a repair which my dad was quoted £300 for. By law the offender must agree to the repair price before commencement of the said repair otherwise they are exonerated of the costs. Its designed to stop people exploiting such situations for financial gain.

I think this has been discussed before and someone more knowledgeable than me said there was nothing to prevent this situation.

 

Would you be responsible if you removed a tree that sheltered your neighbours house, which then lost its roof in a gale?

 

Maybe my view is too simplistic, but how far do you have to put yourself out to assist your neighbour and does the law expect you too? Is it reasonable that the neighbour, being aware of the change in circumstances, takes action to protect himself?

I have no input that could possible answer the questions as quite frankly I have no idea what any of the abbreviations mean, so from that point of view I am in agreement with Mr Prentice here, due to government cutbacks (no pun intended) would this not fall so far down the councils/relevant authority's list of priorities that any wind damage to the neighbours trees be written off as an act of God. Surely there are more pressing issues in this country than some guy removing trees from his own property? I'd like to think that's how the relevant authorities would see it, as Mr P said every tree we remove/reduce produces more risk to neighbouring trees, if so we're guilty of aiding criminal damage every other day. How is this sort of thing measured and weighed? Say you had a big old tree bordering your neighbours property, its getting on and will come down some day damaging their property, you may be guilty of negligence if you don't address the situation, so you get it cut down. Now you leave the neighbours property at risk because you just removed a tree that was shielding their property! Surely anything on their property should be able to withstand nature without relying on a neighbour to defend them, especially something like trees which have a limited lifespan? As stated I know nothing about these matters but this has my attention as if this is the case then every tree I'm responsible for removing could land me in court:confused1: