keptenjim

I recently had a dead Horse Chestnut taken down and prepared to split it for firewood. Unfortunately I discovered that most of the main trunk is completely waterlogged. Became waterlogged while still standing - not after being cut down. It separates easily in ring segments.

Question is - what quality firewood will result when this wood is given time to dry? If it's not going to burn well when dry, I'd rather throw it away and keep the drying space for high quality wood.

Apologies if been asked before,jonsie is still listing both saws,my 66 has been through the mill and will be replaced shortly.anyone used both? will run 30" mostly.thanks in advance guys

I'm not a pro arborist and I haven't tried the 660, but my 661 which I've been using for a couple of months now is a thing of beauty! Running a 25" bar and occasionally a 36" bar I'm amazed at smoothly it slices through anything up to the 4' logs that I've used it for. It starts first time every time and it runs on Aspen or petrol/oil mix without missing a beat. It's also lightweight and totally controllable.

Enjoy your 661!!!

So if any of you have any suggestions, advice I am all ears.

Cheers

Isuzu D-Max double cab? Just a thought!

The Hilux is no longer as indestructible but still probably the best by some margin.

 

I have seen new hilux single for 14k and double for 16k

Recently? The Toyota website advertises the most basic double cab at 21.7k on the road

So if you were going to buy a new 4x4 double cab pick up, which would you choose between the Isuzu D-Max and the Toyota Hilux?

Isuzu has the pulling power - 3500kg vs the Hilux 2800kg. But the Toyota brand is indestructible

Those two bolts where the pipes go in are almost certainly blanking bolts that you remove and fit pipes to for another service. Easy peasy.

 

Looks a nice clean tractor by the way

Thanks Doobin - I figured that was probably the business end of the hydraulics system - just wanted to make sure

A few pics of my Kubota shows the hydraulic configuration of the 3-pt linkage levelling system. 2 hydraulic pipes feed into a 2 way actuator to adjust the level of the right link.

My question is - couldn't these pipes be connected instead to a double spool valve since I don't require the levelling function of the 3 point linkage system. The levelling actuator of the right link is operated by electronic controls on a panel on the right mudguard - in conjunction with a sensor OR, it can simply be operated by a rocker switch under the seat

I appreciate any feedback from the hydraulics experts - Jim

Thanks for the help guys - I might get back to you with a couple of questions when I see how my tractor is configured, if that's OK

Took a photo of an older B6100 kubota, the others looked a similar setup. I have outlined the simple banjo union for the spool pipe. This is only a single acting.

I believe you turn the vale to the right of it. Then hold the 3 pt linkage lever up to pump fluid through it.

 

View is looking under the seat from gear level which is partly visible in bottom right corner, towards the rear.

Sorry about picture quality.

Hi Goaty - thanks for the pic. I'll check out my tractor when I get back home. If I wanted to fit a double spool valve, where would the 2 spool pipes be connected to in that case. assuming my tractor had more or less the same configuration as the one in your pic?

Thanks for all the info.. I'll have to check out all these things when I get back home. Unfortunately, being a grey import, I don't have a manual for it. What my tractor does have is a 'Monroematic' levelling system. There are two hydraulic pipes that are connected to a hydraulic ram that adjusts the level of the right lever of the 3-pin linkage. I don't know if I can incorporate that system into a system for a tipper.

Just to clarify if you can uprate the tipping ram to a double acting one. Some just need a hydraulic pipe and fittings.

A single acting only has a pipe at one end wheras a double has one at each end.

 

The oil supply will not be a problem as the ram will always be full of oil and not deprive the tractors supply. As long as you commission the ram full off oil or top up the tractor after doing a few cycles.

Double acting work in both directions by forcing in oil at one end which ejects equal quantity out the other of the cylinder and vice versa.

 

I would get the spool setup. Not a pto pump.

 

I will post a photo of a spool on a kubota tomorrow if I remember to take them.

Would a double-acting ram on the trailer require a twin spool valve unit to operate it? Also, my tractor might have a suitable oil supply to operate the single action ram? What quantity hydraulic oil supply do these small compact tractors normally have?

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You should have something looking like this near the top link and a pipe running under seat ,but if its a more modern tractor then it will have quick release couplings fitted .

 

Ste

No I'm certain I don't have one of those on my tractor - even with the quick release fitting

What tractor is it?

 

If you've got a 3-point linkage then you've got a hydraulic pump. Fitting a spool valve should be under £200 for parts and a lot less faff than a PTO pump combined with another oil tank that you have to hitch and unhitch every time you change from a trailer to an implement.

 

The only snag is that if it's a really baby compact tractor, the oil reservoir might not have enough to fill the trailer ram, but that's unlikely if the trailer matches the tractor size wise anyway.

It's a Kubota A17 (22HP grey import) It has a 3 pin linkage system. What sort of plumbing would be required to connect the 3-pin linkage hydraulic pump to the spool valve? Would it be a relatively easy job? Interesting what you say about the costs - I was quoted some stupid figure years ago. I'm going to relook at having one installed because as you say, the PTO scenario combined with a separate oil tank would be a lot of trouble. Unfortunately I can't have a look at the back end of the tractor right now as I'm away from home for a short while

IVECOKID - what's a tipping pipe?

Thanks

Can't work out which is the best forum for this question but any help would be appreciated.

I have a compact tractor with tipping trailer. Problem is that the tipping trailer doesn't tip as the tractor does not have a spool valve installed. I gather that fitting a spool valve to the tractor is an expensive option. So I've been thinking of a PTO driven hydraulic pump to power the tipper but then where would the hydraulic supply come from? Also, what controls would be required to operate the tipper and would these controls be located somewhere on the trailer?

Thanks - Jim

Very interesting feedback - many thanks all

What's the general feeling about new saw break in period? The manual says "do not use full throttle off load for 3 tank fillings" So full throttle is OK as long as you're cutting wood? Doesn't sound very precise - maybe I'm a bit over cautious in view of the cost of new saws

Which part of Hampshire are you in, as I am near north Hampshire border with Surrey if you want someone to have a look and give a definite price?

You have a PM - Cheers

I have a dead tree at my place that has to be taken down. Problem is that there is a lot of growth around it that I don't want damaged. The job is out of my league, but how difficult would it be for a trained arborist? Also, what should the job cost? The tree I'm referring to is the rear one in the pics. The trunk is about three and a half feet wide - thanks

Eddie@aspen - Hi mate can you advise? I just recently heard about Aspen and bought 5 litres. I half filled my garden machines' tanks with aspen and ran them for a while before putting them away for winter. Two of my machines - the strimmer and hedgecutter are older machines that I think require a 25:1 petrol/oil mix. Is aspen OK for them? And also, when I want to use the machines again is it OK to top up the tanks with petrol/2-stroke oil mix - Cheers

HI JIM thanks for that sound and looks a good saw hope you get on with it ok thanks jon

Cheers mate......

HI JIM looks a nice saw what size bars did you get with yours thanks jon

Hi Jon - a 25 inch and 36 inch. Cheers - Jim

Picked up my new MS661 today and took it for a test run. Awesome machine! I'm hoping that Stihl has paid particular attention to the re-release. They surely wouldn't cock it up twice?

Hi Keptenjim,

If you've not got a lot of experience felling be very careful. Take your time to make sure you get the direction cut and felling cut right and before you even start that, have a good look at any lean of the tree, how the tree is weighted (quite often Leylandii's have more brush on one side), and the wind direction - even a light wind will have an effect on the big sail of a Leylandii.

 

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Arbtalk

Wolfie - Thanks for the advice - Cheers, Jim

Very good question. From an amateur point of view I believe interlocking boughs cause the biggest problem. Cut the wrong limb or too big a piece and it does not move.

OK thanks. The reason I'm asking is because I have about 15 to 20 large trees (Leylandii) at my place to take down. But I can fell them straight to the ground so technically shouldn't be too difficult. However, they are growing very close together. I really just wanted to know if there was anything specific to Leylandii to watch for. Cheers

As above, or consider a Husqvarna 365 with 20" bar for similar price.

 

Take care cutting stuff that size from telehandler, especially if you're not used to it

What are the main pitfalls to cutting large Leylandii?