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Warranty is 12 months from date of sale, however warranty is a fault in materials or manufacture, I would say the melting was due to a bad connection between the cigarette lighter and the adapter causing an arc and heat build up.

Just one additional point, the early 550/560 had the black oil pump, the gear was driven by some spikes in the back of the sprocket, the later white pump had a gear driven by the splines of the sprocket, so have we got/ had a mix and match of sprockets, pumps and gears? 

We are showing our age now with points and condensers, I believe there was something called a mighty atom which you took the wire from the points and connected it to this small tablet and away they went like magic.

I didn't think so, maybe its not the coil at fault, just a clean of the points and she could fire up.

I just cannot believe that coil is going to fit and work, the Husky 32 was indeed a Solo machine, we sold that back in the late 70s, I can’t even remember if it had points ignition ( could be wrong ) good luck anyway

2 hours ago, Stubby said:

If you get it running again I would use an Alkylate fuel and then you won't need to run it dry .

Alkylate fuel yes, but we always ran these things at 25-1, and still use 25-1 on the K1260 and K1270.

On the positive side you can now grease the sprocket bearing without removing the side cover.

I assume it’s a mark 1, I see these things go on the bay anywhere between £100 and £200, possibly a cylinder clean up and new piston and it could be back on the road.

Oh dear, it almost looks like it’s been machined out, can’t remember if you can actually buy just the cover so may be a complete brake, and clutch.

Unfortunately it will require a replacement carb, choke pull and grommet, easy to do but the cost may now make it to expensive.

If he cleans it it probably fall to bits it was only an oiled foam filter on a plastic frame.

Not seen one of these for a while, this is the original 3120 before they de tuned it, the primer is pretty basic, assuming there is fuel in the carb it pulls from there into the bulb, then when you press the build it soaks the wick in the back of the filter housing, it then runs through the carb to create a rich mixture, unlike a normal saw once it fired you pressed the primer again until she sparked up, so has the wick gone solid and no longer porous, has the bulb cracked or split, are the hoses in good order, is the fuel filter in the tank blocked, pull the off the pressure side of the bulb an press the bulb, does fuel flow.

We converted most of them to a manual choke, worked far better.

Raise the metering lever a touch, not too high as this will cause it flood, it can sort out these issues.

All as Spud said so little more to add, and as Stubby said just not worth the expense to do it.

5 hours ago, ruperthebare said:

Won't clamp tight enough

The bar adjuster is designed to tension the guide bar and chain, not to stop the bar moving, that is the job of the clamping nut, this is always the problem with tooless side covers, they never clamp tight enough, and probably halve the reason that plate has worn away.

Available in three sizes.

The Intenz bar has its own built in adjuster, it was sold as the bar that can fit any saw, just Google it, it was never very popular but did have its uses.

You could always fit an Oregon Intenz bar.

1 hour ago, openspaceman said:

I wonder if the orientation of the tang makes a difference, my thought is if it is vertical it suffers a bit less bending stress than horizontal so could fatigue would be less.

I was always taught tails to the bottom was good working practice.

2 hours ago, peatff said:

I had this with my 135 and it was the oil pump drive sticking to the crank spinning the clutch. I made a clutch tool from an old socket I cut with the angle grinder which did the job nicely and I cleaned the pump drive centre with some wet and dry and greased it. I had tried a new spring and slowing tick over and it does seem to take a while to stop but the brake stops it.

Good point, i also saw some like that.

On a positive much safer and less chance of them coming out, on a negative more difficult to refit.

There was a change of ignition coil between the later 136 before it changed to the 137, so I think this could be an ignition coil issue.

As much as it pains me to say this, but I use the Stihl service tools to refit the tailless circlips on 550/560 etc, vert easy and works every time.

Single spring clutch, same as the one used on many of the entry level saws.

spring 530094188

Clutch removal tool 530031112

Do not try to tap the clutch legs to remove the clutch, they are a sintered material and will snap off, you need to use the tool with a 19mm spanner to jar the clutch off clockwise.

3 hours ago, Muddy42 said:

As above, if its just after use, check the idle screw if the chain is running the whole time.  Chain tension is a separate issue, which I think of as a delicate and constant battle between tight and hot or too loose and the risk of throwing a chain.

 

Don't spend too much money fixing an old Husky 135, I've been there and its not worth it.

For the sake of a clutch spring, or clutch bearing its well worth spending a bit on.