spandit
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Posts posted by spandit
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10 minutes ago, nepia said:
If they fail or you want more just ask; they seed like thistles here!
Very kind, thank you! You're not far away either... Can always plant more hedges
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Fair point but they were free and better to try rather than let them go to waste
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A good friend of mine has a load of little hornbeam coming up in his garden, which isn't huge. It's one of my favourite trees so we uprooted a dozen or so this morning for me to plant here. The largest was about 2cm in diameter and about 2m tall, maybe a bit more. I'm hoping they'll all take but wondered if anyone had done a study to see if trees transplant better if they're replanted facing the same way they were dug up? Too late for mine, it was an idle musing as I had nearly finished planting them all, but I wonder if trees are confused to find that suddenly they're the other way around?
On that note too, if a tree is leaning due to light from one direction, I wonder if digging it up and turning it around would straighten things?
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13 hours ago, openspaceman said:
Unless you have some special willows you generally do not need rooted whips; dib a hole 6" into the ground, put a 12" cut branch in and gently backfill with dry sand.
Just jab the willow into the ground - if it's cut at an angle it'll go in and they're such voracious rooters - mine grow roots all the way along if you just leave them on damp ground for too long. Any time from now should do but I generally wait for a bit longer to make sure they're properly dormant
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Just now, devon TWiG said:
try washing resin off your hands and kit with just a bit of water !!!!!
Try leaving your hands out in the rain for 6 months
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Just now, trigger_andy said:
But there would be obvious signs of that process happening surely?
Do you realistically see the resin being flushed out beyond a few millimetres without any pressure being applied? I assume you realise how viscous resin is?
Doesn't matter how viscous it is if it's water soluble. Anyway, let's not argue about it. Wood needs to be dry to burn and dry wood will burn.
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Just now, trigger_andy said:
Do you see an accumulation of Resin collecting below?
Could it be that it’s partially seasoning sitting outside?
If the resin was being washed away then it wouldn't accumulate below. Yes, it's seasoning on the rare days it doesn't rain. It's mainly because I lack the space to put it all inside straight away
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Just now, trigger_andy said:
What does the rain achieve?I think it washes some of the resin out. Might be wrong.
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I get almost unlimited amounts of leylandii given to me (from being a registered tip site on here). It's not what I'd choose, but beggars can't be choosers and it kicks out a lot of heat. The branches are really dense. It's best left out in the rain for a year or so before seasoning in the dry - when it's bleached and/or grey, it's great fuel
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When you hang the washing out does it dry?
Like washing, logs need airflow and heat to dry, the former more than the latter, I think.
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2 minutes ago, john87 said:
I have to say i have never tried myself, just been told it is awful.. Perhaps it is ok after all then?? Any idea what laurel is like or wood from leylandii type trees??
Laurel is good - grows quick, quite dense, although there is cyanide to contend with.
Leylandii is also good, although I prefer to season it for 2 years otherwise it can be a bit resinous. It's fairly rot resistant too, so if the logs get wet whilst seasoning, they're generally OK.
Any wood will burn once dry, they just dry at different rates. That said, I wouldn't bother with horse chestnut again as it goes incredibly light and doesn't give you much return for the effort.
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2 minutes ago, john87 said:
All very good, but you need to know what burns well and what does not, Willow for instance, is awful..
Dry willow burns as well as any other dry wood. I find it dries quickly too - probably because the tubes full of water that make it up are larger diameter than, say, oak. Burns quite quick but certainly wouldn't dismiss it like that. I use it for cooking on. Haven't bought charcoal for years. Gives a nice flavour to the meat.
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On 14/10/2021 at 23:26, scbk said:
You'll probably find that splits at the fork - it's one of the ways they propagate (the fallen branch touches the ground and takes root) but mine will, in a good year, put on about 12 feet of growth. The pieces are broomhandle thickness and great for firepits or outdoor cooking (once dry)
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22 hours ago, AngrySquirrel said:
The square is the input/central parts of cord head that unbolts from main strimmer output shaft.
Have to lock it and it's a left hand thread.
Oh, I'll have a look - didn't see an obvious way to lock it so I can get some torque on it
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Looking at the head of mine (Castor Power 26), it has a c.20mm square drive to the back of the bump head - haven't seen blades that will fit this, unless there's an adaptor out there
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7 minutes ago, Stubby said:
I don't like bump feed heads , much prefer Oregon Jet fit heads . have you tried soaking your line in a bucket of water over night . Its hygroscopic so absorbs water making it less brittle.
I haven't tried that but don't think it would make it cut through clumps of sedge. It's not breaking the line, just shrugging it off. I bought a Jet Fit head for my smaller strimmer but since inheriting the bigger, straight shaft one, I haven't used it
Anyone used the swing type blades?
6 Teeth Blade Trimmer Cutter Head Tool Steel Grass Lawn Mower Garden Strimmer UK
Shape: 6 Teeth. Ice Cube Mold. Material: Manganese Steel. Height: Approx. Product Information. Sofa Cover... -
Do these blades fit most strimmers? I have one with a bump head and it's pretty good but I never get to bump it as tend to hit something that just snaps the line off (and it's fairly thick c.4mm stuff). Got a ditch full of pendulous sedge and although the top leaves are no match, where they get clumpy, the plastic line does little
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Personally, I'm thrilled as it means I can ditch the L-plates and tow the small trailer (c.1 tonne) behind the Hilux without "supervision" from my wife who passed her test a few months before I did in 1996.
Can't believe the no reversing HGV test, though, that seems a bit foolish.
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My robinia trees are about 7 years old and mostly doing quite well but I've never had any flowers from them. Is this because they're not old enough?
I also have some sea buckthorn that has never produced berries. I notice my almond is bare of fruit this year...
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Lit mine yesterday just to cheer things up a bit. Crazy weather.
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I lit mine this morning. Cheers the room up and helps dries the dogs. We have to have the windows open to lessen the smell from my elderly incontinent father's room 🤢 and it's bloody cold
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That is superb
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1 hour ago, Stere said:
Did you plant them trees etc and if so how are they doing now?
I didn't in the end. Realised that I actually like the gorse - it's a good barrier, evergreen, flowers all year round and after cutting it back, it's growing bushier.
This is on the top bank of my pond, South facing. Petals are browning off a bit but the foliage is still green. Despite the council's assertions, natural regen seems to be my preferred route - plenty of birch, oak and willow coming up, with the occasional alder (spread from trees I planted, as there were none here when we moved in). All good for wildlife, as far as I can see. I have plenty of habitat piles around too, although the mother-in-law would rather I just burn it all and have the grass clipped to look like Astroturf.
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My gorse is looking pretty splendid around my pond - it's all naturally regenerated and providing good dog-proof cover so hoping some of the wildlife the pond attracts will actually stay. It has been really cold and wet this year so far but it's pretty tough stuff so should bounce back, I hope
Leylandii disposal
in Business Management
Posted
I'd take them if you could drop them onto a suitable habitat pile