Aledafis

I started up my new 365 for the first time yesterday and was faced with a very similar problem, the saw flooded badly and just wouldn't start, the decomp valve also stayed in it's "in" position. I guess that I just won't bother with the decomp valve for a while then. Once it started up though, wow! What a saw!

It's time for a couple of updates Update 1 - A new Meteor piston arrived yesterday, so I'll be rebuilding the saw again next week during my half term holiday. Update 2 - I received another parcel today with Husqvarna 365 written on the box!! I can now carry on with some turning so I'm a happy boy! In fact I need to get turning to make this 365 pay for itself. I've learnt a lot already so can't wait to get this saw running properly.

Yes it's the 365x-torq I was looking at. The 372 is out of my price range unfortunately (not to mention the 395xp!) so it's good to know that it can be modded to perform like a 372 - I might wait until it's out of it's warranty period before starting on it with a grinder though ;-)

Thanks for the advice guys! It looks like a 365 may well be on the cards then. Now that I may be in the 70cc saw bracket, what about the occasional milling job with say an Alaskan mill? I can't see it being much more than a couple of trees a year at say 18"dia, would the 365 be up to that or am I just dreaming?

Sorry to take this slightly off topic, but would you guys say that the 560 is superior to the 365? The reason I ask is that following my other thread on my MS290 problems, I've been eyeing up a new saw just in case this one finds it's way into a skip soon. I've found a 365 for £518 inc VAT, whereas the 560 is £600. The 365 has a larger engine, but about the same power output. My use is sporadic to say the least, but when I need a saw, it needs to be pretty powerful to cut up woodturning blanks. I'm struggling to justify the price of the 365 not to mention the 560 Cheers Aled Edit : I also see that the 365 is available with longer bars, is this due to the larger engine capacity? A bit of an odd one given the same power output, something to do with torque possibly?

Thanks, I may take you up on that offer. It really isn't that bad compared to the stuff I've seen you sort out on here. I've just found out through two separate sources that a tree surgeon I know is "**** hot" at fixing chainsaws. I'll take it over to see what he has to say first before going long distance if you don't mind. Cheers Aled

I'm near New Quay, West Wales, any further west and you'd get pretty wet! I've also had a crap couple of weeks, it seems that work just want to keep piling work on us, and then pressure us for results (GCSE/A-level etc.) at the same time!! Not to mention a small issue with a chainsaw ;-)) Cheers Aled

Thanks! I had a MS180, nice little saw for a few small trees around the house but really wasn't up to the job I want it to do now! I don't suppose you know of any 372/460's going for a reasonable price? Thanks again. Aled

How much would I be looking to spend on something like a decent, used 372XP or MS460?

Hi, I'm back! A compression test proved my worst fears, 120PSI, so no bloody good! GRRRRR!!! As you can probably imagine I'm getting to the end of my tether with this saw, and have a nice but of ash sitting on the drive that needs cutting up! I'll have another go at the saw in the near future, but really could do with shifting this ash, so it look like I'm going to be spending on another saw in the meantime, I don't use it that often, but when I need a saw, it needs to work! So any recommendations for a saw that will cut up to say 18"-20"dia butts and then slice them (with the grain) to produce bowl blanks for the lathe?

A lack of power is spot on, it's crap. I'll take a compression reading tomorrow to clarify that one. It should be good though as I ended up changing both the piston and the cylinder. I'll also strip the carb again and give it a good clean.

Yes I took the needles out, but it could be that there's still some crud in there. I'll give it another go. At least it's good to know that it isn't the clutch. Thanks!

Ha! Simple indeed... :lol: I ran her up tonight again and she ran well on the bench both with and without the bar, but once she touched the wood, she died down almost immediately, loosing power with the chain stalling in the wood. Could it be clutch related? It's just about the only thing i haven't changed by now... The funny thing is that once she dies in the wood she just won't start up again, could the clutch be sticking a little and putting too much strain on the engine to get up to speed? I'm clutching at straws now (pun intended) Thanks for your patience guys, it means a lot!

Liked!

Ha! Yes I also did that for a couple of pulls, but realised pretty soon. I've run a multimeter around the earthing circuit and it's all good. ??? There must be something straightforward that I'm missing. The annoying thing is that my time is limited to play with her, by the time I'm back from work and spend a little time with the kids, it's too late to really spend much time tinkering with a noisy engine.

Yes, sorry, just reading that back and it sounds bloody ungreatful, which I'm not at all! On the contrary, I'm very greatful, you've been a massive help!

This saw is beginning to do my head in! I came home from work tonight, fired her up, began to cut and she died in the cut just as she'd done before I did the work on her! She then refused point blank to start up again! I've just been out in the workshop after dinner, took the bar off and she runs lovely (still won't shut off but I'm not that worried about that at the moment), revving up like a good un and starting on the first pull like she did last night. The only things I haven't done anything to are the clutch (apart from removing and replacing it when I took the engine out), the chain brake and the fuel line, none of which should contribute to this annoying behaviour. I should have a fuel line in the post tomorrow, so failing that, could it be the clutch? If so, I can sort of understand the stalling in the cut, but why won't she start back up? GRRrrrrrrrrr! And yes Spud I have connected the cables to the engine, and it does make contact when I flick the kill switch. Did you take me for some kind of idiot? Ok, don't answer that one... ;-))

Unfortunately it's making good contact... Thanks!

Well, basically I bought a knackered chainsaw from ebay with low compression, a knackered piston and a dodgy carb. But following a great deal of advice on here, a new piston, new impulse line, complete rebuild, a good ultrasonic clean of the carb and a new carb kit I (hopefully) have a good saw. I just need to get her to stop as she should and I'll be done. Thanks guys!

Halelujia! She runs!! I just have one last problem, she runs so well she wont switch off! When I flick the lever to switch the saw off, the engine continues to run. The only way I've managed to turn her off is to adjust the idle screw out until she stalls. The good news is that she starts on the first pull on restarting so I'm a pretty happy boy. Aled

Hah! It's good to know that it's not just me then. We have an ultrasonic cleaner that the missus uses for her jewellery, I'm sure she won't mind me cleaning my carb in there... I've not changed the fuel line as it looks OK, I'll have another look and maybe order a new one just in case, they're only a few quid. The tank breather has a screw in doo dah, could that be problematic? It's not going to beat me!!

The piston is fine and I have good compression, so as you say, it's probably a fuel issue. I fitted a carb kit yesterday, but I'll give it a good going over today again just to make sure that none of the nozzles are blocked.

I'm back I'm afraid, the saw initially fired up as I'd hoped, but following a good few seconds of running it stoped, and after some frantic pulling I just couldn't get it to start up again. This happened this afternoon, so i tried it again after dinner and the same thing happened again. It's as if it'll start up from cold, but once it has warmed up a bit it just doesn't want to run at all. Any advice would be gratefully received. Aled

Thank Spud, that's great, I'll give it a go this afternoon once I get back from the boys football match.

I've re built the engine tonight, but it was a little late to start her up at 10.00 on a Friday night even for my neighbours. It was all quite straightforward in the end, all that googling and great advice on here must have been worth it! So one last question (I hope) what's the preferred running in procedure? Do you just let them idle gently for a while before going for it, or is this not necessary? Thanks for all your help guys! Aled