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wjotner

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Posts posted by wjotner

  1. On 24/02/2018 at 10:20, Benny4817 said:

    no worries  what would you pay for groundie and 150tw chipper  and when would you be looking at and where as distance plays a part in the price lol #

    I'd need the chipper for work around Sheffield. But I also get work in the Peak District, and I sometimes go as far as Stockport, Macclesfield, Chesterfield, Alfreton. I only do my own work part time, so it would just be a handful of days a month at the moment.

     

    Do you have a day rate price?

  2. 12 hours ago, Benny4817 said:

    turner hire         also another option is hire someone in that has one

     

    Turner Hire are expensive.

     

    Yep, I do that too. But sometimes, smaller jobs need smaller overheads. And as i have my own tipper van, i don't always needs a man + chipper + van. Just chipper and groundie sometimes.

  3. 1 hour ago, Khriss said:

    Wjotner - had to stop the blanket stump treatment on one of my sites as the engineer had not factored in bank slippage thru root plate decay -  K

    Interesting. Would have thought the engineer should have considered that before removing the trees since the roots would probably decay eventually anyway to some extent.

  4. On 28/01/2018 at 18:13, Gary Prentice said:

    I wouldn’t automatically treat, having damaged nearby vegetation of the same species due to rootgrafts. I would normally refuse to herbicide in this situation, extolling the virtues (environmentally) of just cutting off the re-gen.

    Yep, fair enough. I only use "Ecoplugs" now anyway, to keep things tidy and minimise collateral damage to nearby vegetation. No more sloshing glyphosate liquid into chainsaw grooves anymore. Too messy. Doesn't look professional. Can wash away or be ingested by curious pets/wildlife.

     

  5. 2 hours ago, Khriss said:

    Lots of good reasons to Not treat stumps - best have a Caveat in yr work pricing blurb K

    Yes, everyone has made good points on this. I agree. I've stated the following on my website to make things clear:

     

    "We perform tree removals by dismantling and felling. And where regrowth prevention is requested, we will treat the cut stump at no extra charge."

  6. 26 minutes ago, Mick Dempsey said:

    On trees like pops and willows where there is the possibility of regrowth I’ll advise it.

     

    Automatically? No.

     

    23 minutes ago, Gary Prentice said:

    Talk to the client at the time of quoting. 

     

    Offer up the options, does the stump want treating, grinding or will the client deal with the expected regeneration?

    You're quite right, and I normally do discuss this with them at the time of quoting the job. I must have forgotten this time.

     

    I almost packed my drill and ecoplugs in the van on way to the job just in case, but didn't - now regretting it.

     

    Not making that mistake again. I've decided to state on my website that treating stumps is automatically done on appropriate trees, unless otherwise requested by a customer. Just to make things simpler and clearer for customers.

  7. So here's a question for all you business owners and sole traders etc:

     

    When you've taken down a tree for a customer. Do you automatically treat the stump to prevent regrowth (non-coniferous trees obviously) whether the customer requested it or not?

     

    Or do you only provide this service if they've asked you to do it?

     

    I ask this, because recently a customer is complaining to me that I didn't treat her 2 poplar stumps after I'd felled them. This was never discussed when quoting, if it were, I'd have stated on my quote sheet about stump treatment. But she says she'd assumed it would just be done automatically. 

    So what do you guys consider to be standard procedure?

     

  8. I'm not keen on the idea of spending £500 on a metal box. I'm trying to see if I can find them cheaper or second hand somewhere, but i can't find much going online. Also, those larger side access tool boxes are too big for my small tipper body. I'm looking for something only half that height, basically enough for store a couple of chainsaws in.

  9. So I need to add some tool storage space to my Landy tipper. 

     

    I was thinking of a couple of under body boxes on either side between wheel arches. And another box on the front end of the body with side access. 

     

    But I'm struggling to to find anywhere online that does side access tool boxes. Does anyone know a good place to get them from? Preferably used as new ones are really expensive. Thanks

  10. On 02/01/2018 at 16:46, Dilz said:

    My only experience of this other than natural crotch rigging was using an old ZK1 wrench with a 13mm yale rope.  I found i had to take quite big pieces for it to run smooth. and was a bit of pain as the friction couldn't be adjusted ala bollard at the base. for when smaller bit needed to be rigged.

     

    I keep hearing a lot more about having the friction at the top instead of the base, but i'm keen to know more. What systems work? do any allow for easy adjustment? in a big tree i dont fancy climbing up to the rigging anchor when i want to adjust something. 

    Whata re the benefits of friction at top instead of bottom?

  11. 41 minutes ago, WesD said:

    Our Jensen went through the same process, 2nd hand reall good going through lick of paint and we’ve never looked back this has been in our use for about 3 years and only cost blade sharpening and service kits after initial going through. 

    1156F1B1-E8E9-438C-A114-C8D659BA9F17.jpeg

    Nice work with fixing up chippers. I'd love to do same but totally lack the skills, tools and space for that.

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