wjotner

I hope this is the right section to post this. So my DMM steel thimble cord used as part of Tefuelberger Pulley Saver failed LOLER. So rather than spend £70 on a whole new one, I thought I'd save a bit and just put new 8mm cord into the original steel thimble. 

Does anyone know a method for getting it in. It's so tight, I can't push the cord into the hole. Is there a special tool I need to use?

Thanks 

2 hours ago, GarethM said:

What's the current clearance distance, ENWL are enforcing 3m on my pylons.

 

You'll be wanting the DNO, Northern Power Grid.

 

I should say if the clearance isn't enough they may do it for free as it's very unlikely they would isolate the power.

 The clearance is ZERO. I reckon the top of the conifer is basically touching the line. It's a small domestic line. It's in the guys front garden. Got to be under 11k volts.

Thanks for that. I'll contact Northern Power Grid and see what they say.

Hi looking for some advice please.

A customer has a small conifer tree directly beneath a low voltage, possibly insulated power cable which runs over his garden.

I'm struggling to find out which power grid company I need to contact to arrange a temporary shut down.

I've searched Google, and it's not very clear who I need to speak to for the Derbyshire Dales area.

Please help!

Thanks, I'll check them out. It can be daunting when you Google for first aid training and a hundred different providers come up. No way of knowing which will be any good.

Can anyone recommend a good course provider for First Aid At Work 3 day course) preferably with forestry?

I'm based in Chesterfield, Derbyshire, so somewhere within 50 miles around would be handy.

Needs to be 3 day course as it's a requirement for Assessor and Instructor training.

Thanks 

Thanks Slack. That's interesting, not sure I'd want the responsibility of running my own courses. But worth thinking about as an option. I'll see what the Lantra people say when they get back to me.

On 01/03/2023 at 20:09, slack ma girdle said:

I generate my own work, and use MWMAC to register the courses. At the moment I run 4-6 courses a year,  because i am so busy. Once i get abit more decrepit i will increase the amount of training.

I could probably generate enough training work to keep me busy full time, but i am enjoying felling and climbing, and i enjoy the variety. 

Yes it is worth pursuing,  but not many are cut out to be trainers.

Give me a tinkle if you want 07966792798

9 hours ago, slack ma girdle said:

You will have a days verification to see if you have the required knowledge and skills. You need a teaching qualification (PTLLS), H&S qualification (IOSH), and then a week long standard setting course.

I think it took me about 18 months.

It costs a lot!

Would you say it was worth the effort and money for you? Do you get enough work from it, and does it pay ok?

Thanks for the replies. I'll get in touch with Lantra and see what they say. 

I've been climbing 9 years, and still love it. But am tired now of having to pick up sticks for a living and mess about with chippers. Plus I'm getting old. So i want to start moving my career away from day to day tree work, but still use the skills I've developed as a climber. So I would like to find out more about how one goes about becoming an arb instructor and assessor. 

Can anyone out there point me in the right direction? I'm based in the East Midlands and struggling to find nearby training providers who i can speak to.

Thanks

So I've gone and bought a 2511 now. Should arrive in next day or two. Couldn't find the model with carving bar, they seem to be out of stock everywhere. But I'm happy enough to get going with the 3/8 bar for now. It's high time I replaced my old Stihl 160t battery saw for light work, I've had it 7 years and it's getting tired. Still works though even after clip broke twice and dropped out of tree twice. Those battery saws are tougher than they look.

4 minutes ago, Mark Bolam said:

It’s a doddle with the Stihl 2 in 1 sharpener mate.

 

The best combo we have found is the 2511 with the Stihl 150 bar and chain, 1/4” pitch.

Yeah I have a 2 in 1 sharpener. Loved it for a while, but found it wasn't really getting the chain sharp enough. I'd end up taking the round file out and using on its own to get a better tickle on it.

Yeah Ive heard it's better with carving bar. But they are a pain in the tits to sharpen those little chains.

I know this topic has been done before. And from what I hear, the echo is the better saw.

So here's my problem. There are no echos of this model in stock anywhere. So what I want to know is if this saw is so much better should I wait a few weeks to get one instead of buying a 151 right now. Is it worth the wait?

Rarely do weekends mate. But if you send me your details, I can get in touch when weekend work comes up.

I'm on the lookout for a groundie who can do some climbing sometimes and has chainsaw and aerial rescue tickets. I don't have regular days, maybe one or two per week. Sometimes more.

Good pay, work days aren't usually long.

Based around Chesterfield, South Sheffield and NE Derbyshire areas.

Email me [email protected]

Or text/call 07967361604

Cheers

Nice. Very handy if you have all that space and kit and skills to make that stuff by yourself. I don't have that option unfortunately. I've decided to get someone to build a steel frame for me to bolt panels to. Seems the most cost effective way for me.

I've just bought a new (used) tipper truck. Nice little retro Isuzu NKR. Needs an arb body built into the existing tipper bed.

My budget to do this right now is very limited (like £2k max). I'd like a basic steel framed body with a flat fixed roof covering a 3rd of the top. Then I'll either fix ally planks, sheets, or plywood onto the frame depending on how much it cost to get the frame on.

What can people recommend as strong, reliable, unfussy materials to use when you don't have several grand to splash of a posh arb body?

Yeah I've heard PTI is tough. I've done my best to scrub up my knowledge, bought the big Fungi on trees books, have shadowed a colleague on a survey and have done some informal ones for customers in the past. So I do have some idea what I'm getting into. But need to brush up on my spotting of different conditions for different tree species. 

Can't face doing level 4 right now. Will cost too much in time and money. Will leave that for a few years time I think.

Thanks for your input chaps 👍

Hi JaySmith. Thanks for the helpful reply. I've got Level 3 in arb and would consider doing a level 4 or 5 at some stage but it's more than I can manage right now in terms of work load. So I'm hoping the PTI is a quicker step into the surveying world. I've heard it's tough, but I'm happy to take the gamble as I can always retake the exam if I fail first attempt.

I've heard doing the mortgage tree report course can be helpful for getting work.

I'm an experienced climbing arborist, and getting in my mid-forties now. So while I still enjoy climbing work I'm starting to look for ways to use my knowledge and experience to move into other areas of ARB work. Doing a PTI course this year, what else would people recommend. I'd like to get some freelance work doing aerial inspections for consultancies and surveys and ecologists. Is this difficult to get into as a self employed arborist?

Thanks for the info guys. I'm looking to get into the climbing side first I think. I'll have a look into the ATF stuff.

Cheers

Has anyone had any experience in working in veteran tree management?

It's an area of specialization I'd love to get involved in but struggling to find out a viable path to it. Are there any firms out there that do a lot of this kind of work? 

Tempted to do the VetCert course but not sure if it'll help if there isn't the work around for it.

Any advice appreciated.

Hi James, I've PM'd you. Cheers.

2 hours ago, Luckyeleven said:

2 swivels with a spacer between?

I think this would leave you still with both attachments getting twisted up when you try to spin around.