champagnecharly

Thanks.. not quite the answer i'd hoped for however certainly the one I needed.. So what would the 162se have evolved into that may be mostly the same as the super? Or was the super's improvements based on Jonsered's engineers and as such is it incomparable?

Should have read.. super 2.

I'm looking for parts for a Jonsered 630 Super 3. Which Husky is it the same as? also what bar fittings should I use. It seems to be missing the original Jonsered small to Husky adapter. on the subject of bars.. I've seen Stihl bar> Husky adapters. How do you rate these and will they work on the 630? Thanks

Thanks.. They actually specify the specs in the part diagram which helps.. Taken a back burner for now as I couldn't find my darn puller. .. Thanks

Any thoughts on bearings and sourcing them? The bearings are easy to come by and at varied prices.. LS engineering sell the "part" at 14 ex each however they can be found from bearing specialists for around £3 a pop down to 1.50.... big difference! Would the £3 bearing suffice or are there tolerances etc I need to take into account?

It would stand to reason that that was why the problem arose in the first instance. However at the moment with flywheel & coil off, with the plug in there is still an issue. The bearings are easy to come by and at varied prices.. LS engineering sell the "part" at 14 ex each however they can be found from bearing specialists for around £3 a pop down to 1.50.... big difference! Any advice on replacing bearings would be appreciated.

Flywheel not on however lots of movement in all directions from shaft! This must be it.. It also creates a similar noise as when trying to pull. I can't pull that much without fear of damaging. That was 2 half pulls. From holdin git in TDC and moving (or trying to move ) piston up and down results in 0 movement. From holdin git in TDC and moving (or trying to move ) piston up and down results in 0 movement. Also no markings other than what i'd call normal wear. No scores or shardes. If it were crank, would i not have difficulty turning even with plug out? I've never changed bearings.. how do I get in that deep? I presume oil seals get pulled out but then?

I've taken the pot off. All clear. no grooves. I tried to test compression but couldn't pull enough and at that stage compression was just 60psi so low.. Could the play in bearings be due to the knock against the coil? given there is no sign of anything and no fuel top or bottom... would i be guessing right that the bearings have taken the shock? FYI ran tests with flywheel off and away from ignition. Frustrating cause I'd finally just got this running well..

I have an old fs80av. Was working great up until last week. For some reason coil had come loose and rubbed against the flywheel. Anyway.. since, it feels like it's seized. When I pull there is considerable resistance (i think at tdc) . looking at piston and pot there is nothing untoward.. and if I pull with the sparkplug out it pulls fine with no resistance. Any ideas?

Great safety feature! The tip re using only bottom of the bar is something I did not know. So thank you!. Regards the yellow:green chains... I was reading reviews on the oregon vanguard and read that they were hard do sharpen correctly and as such potentially liable to kick back more if incorrectly sharpened.. This made me wonder if I was going to be better off just getting a semi chisel pro chain with (yellow) reduced kickback. What are your thoughts?

Or as cantdog says.. false secrity but better than none. Hence why the importance of the green chain also.. Anyway i got my hands on a spares/repair 52e. for 35 notes.. 'with' false security.. Curious how does the chainguard actually kickin at time of kickback?

Awesome! Thanks

ok.. so again I wrongly assumed that the 73 would tell me what chain I had.. in fact there are (at least) different 73 oregon. The chain doesent seem to have any blueness so can i presume it is a 73dp?.. theres is also a no 25 on top right of tooth,, if it is 73dp.. they say it's bumper link (how can you tell) with reduced kb.. is that the same as green?

Thanks.. what about 3/8 does the same apply? The bar I have is 3/8.. Ok.. well now I feel even more of a fool. I was lazy and rather than count the DL .. saw a familiar number 73 engraved on the chain and wrongly assumed that was the count.. it was only when you mentioned made to order/ from reel i started to doubt.. in fact. the DL is 64. (counted 3 times to be sure..) From tip to guard I'm measuring 17" and length off is 505mm . And i though a little chainsaw maintenance was going to be simple .. how wrong could I be.. ok.. so anyway i now know my chain is a oregon 73. Which isn't green.

Thanks.. Re your previous post i thought I may give it a go servicing this bar.. Re the 20".. i should have measured what was on it and not paid attention to the person I purchased from.. it is infact 17" with 72(or 73 i forget now) DL. I've searched stihl for 17" for RM3 and RS3 chains and nothing of that size.. Am I banging my head against a brick wall with this bar? 17" 73 DL 3/8 and Green do they exist?

Well, given the advice and as I'm seriously cautious.. I opted to change to a 3.25 with new blade + chain. Oregon 20 Inch K095 Pro Lite Chainsaw Bars Oregon 21BPX078E Micro Chisel Chainsaw Chains More than I wanted to spend but then I know it works as it should.. Is it my imagination or is 180psi compression on 3 pulls really quit good.

I managed to find a cheap oregon rim sprocket that will fit. Also a new nose (£6.00) for the bar. However wondering with regards to what you said.. There is wear on the bar. with sharp edges. the wear seems to be around 0.6mm Shoudl i class it as junk? From the list you there dont seem to be any low kickback with 20" and 3/8 could i be wrong here or is there a reason for this? I also noted that there is no 3/8 when selecting the jonsered 49..

Perfect sense. Thank you.

Hi, Well I'm still playing with my jonsered 49 sp.. I need to change the clutch drum. There is some where on the bar at tip (its got burred edge) but depth seems unaffected. On drum sprocket is scored and there is a fair sized lip internally. I want to avoid as much expence as possible. I didnt want to get a bar also if that could be avoided.. my sprocket & bar are 3/8 windsor. Given there is no chainbrake I wanted to get a reduced kickback chain and was looking at: this However now I wonder if a windsor bar/ sprokcet are compatible with others chain/ sprocket types. I read that windsor pitch was slightly different. Should all 3 items match or just the in terms of type (obviously 3/8 or .325 do.. ) Also what difference does the amount of teeth make. I'm seeing 7 or 8 teeth. Currently I have 7. Does that have to map somehow to bar that is used? Or chain? Thanks..

ok.. well from what i read they are the old shoe brake and not efficient. however same as on: 49, 52/52E/ 621, 66E, 70E, 80 and 90 thanks to cantdog on arboristsite

dupe post

They actually also mention chainbrake for the 49 however no price so I want to check its not a webtrap and meaningless.. will be calling them shortly.. if things advance, if of interest I could get 2.. i much prefer electric ignition > points.. mmm. yes.. its the potential injuries i'm worried about.. hence why i want it in good condition before thinking about using it.

Firewood.. Well yes and no.. 2 trees 8 -10 inch diameter trunks x 20ft to come down and chop up and 1 twice to three times diameter that that needs chopping up. So although not much, enough room for error.. I'll look into chain brake.. i see exactly what it is now/ how works.. Thanks. s.varty.. Experience.. as good as none.. only with a comparatively small stihl and there wasnt much to do. fergusonforestry.. thanks for the tip.. I'll try and search for one.. with any luck like the clutch one from another will fit.. ... itermitant spark.. http://www.lilredbarn.net/Jonsered-49SP-Ignition-Coil-and-Chip-s/50073.htm ? My clutch cog has 1 or 2 1.5mm grooves on each tooth.. should I presume that needs replacing? She started like a beast. a fair old grunt to it. Compression was 100,160,180psi 1st,2nd 3rd pull.

Yup, that's the girl.. I'd read decent reviews with regards to these. the one biggest issue in terms of maintenance was that of getting hold of pistons.. hence why I wanted to make sure she was running at correct rpm i,e not lean. Useful info that link.. thanks So no chain brake.. but excuse my ignorance. peatff but why do you ask? Seems that I'll be learning how to sharpen then.. I may buy a new to start as to know how a new blade should be.. Any more thoughts/ tips would be appreciated. Any ideas on ignition module that will work?

Hello, I'm waiting to receive from ebay a £40 jonsereds 49. This is going to be my first chainsaw so I would appreciate a little advice. I've been told it's in working order but needs a sharpening. Service history question were not answered by the fleabay seller. Given it's my first chainsaw, I'd like your advice on what to look out for before I start using it. I've read that these use points so I would be looking to replace with a module. Does anybody know which module to use or where to source? i've got a carb overhaul kit on it's way.. Any idea what ID fuel lines this requires? Also what rpm should she be ticking over at? My first task will be to run a compression test.. What psi should I be getting it to after 1 and 3 pulls? What concerns me more is the chain mechanism. What should I check. Where are common areas of wear that could cause issues? Also.. chains are 'relatively cheap' is sharpening really worth the time? Hope you can share your wisdom.