champagnecharly

Simple but clever.. The screw worked a treat on the clutch side.. Thanks.. Now i've got to get the flywheel bolt off. Not proving easy.

How can I remove the oil/crank seal without stihl tool? On a stihl brushcutter FS400. Any tips would be apreciated. I dont really want to fork out £100+

Well i took the cap of the L and the H.. however I couldn't see any screw under the H. in fact it seemed to be just Al Adjusting the L I managed to get it running. Actually running quite well although a little lean under throttle.. that was well until I moved it and revs dropped. I also noticed that under certain adjustment, when I let go of the throttle revs would drop but take time to drop completely. I thought that whether or not the carb is not 100% the slowness in dropping down in revs and the variation in revs on simply moving the thing must be to do with something else.. I had some oil seals hanging around that came with a gasket kit.. so i thought I would install.. but ohh.. thought it would be easier to pull them out.. how wrong could I be.. Without the stihl tool, how can I get these out? Any tips would be apreciated.

A bit of diluted washing up liquid showed that my seal to the pressure testing block (like carb) was bad. was just using a piece of card. Unfortunately this carb is idle adjustment only.. a real pain. Can the caps be taken out and screws put in?

From US.. But cheap yes. Hence more reason for my suspicion.. Qu is should so little loss / slow of pressure effect running of machine?

Thanks for the input... fs400 Basic 2 stroke, no valves on this.

Hi, I have an FS400 thats driving me nuts.. Got a new carb for it.. installed without filter etc let it run. Worked fine lef tit running for 20 mins and reacted well to throttle.. I left it on the side for 3 weeks and now the darn thing wont run with choke off. Also cuts out under throttle. Compression is 70,100,120PSI on 1,2,3 pulls I tried a pressure/vaccum test. holds .5bar vaccume and 1bar pressure for a good 10 mins but does seem to leaks very slowly on both. Could this be my problem? I wasnt sure given that it worked before the hols fine.. had no further use and then didnt work parculiar and wondered if my leak was from my blanking card or tester and that the new carb was at fault. Fuel is fresh. Also wondering what these should sound like as it sounds awfully tinny (from exhaust side) when it idles.

Following on from this... I was just in france at parents in law. After using his 190 for a small job, it was time to get it sharpened... unfortunately he did n't have a file.. The local Stihl & Husky dealer had some files but god damned expensive.. at €14 for a single and they didnt do the kit with the depth guage.. In fact told me it was never available for sale -just a poor quality promo- in france. The sharpening fee was just 4.5€ so thought it best to just leave it with him and I'd get a kit for him over here. There was also a little bit of wear on the bar so we asked if he could redress... I didnt go back to collect but when my Father in Law came back I took one look at the bar and was gob smacked.. running my finger along it it was like a razor.. so i thought no more and got a (rubish) file to it to take off the razor edges.. I then noted he had only done one side.... so finished off his job.. looking down the groove I noticed he hadnt even touched it and it was full of gunk...so cleaned that off too.. i took a look at the chain.. .. the teeth were completely out to the eye with -at a guess- 0.5 to 1.5mm variance between . worst still were the depth gauge with over 1- 1.5mm difference (are these not meant to be around 0.2mm). not only that but they were just filed flat/ squared with no curved shape being given to them at all. After reading the good advice i received and the refference to courses, training passing and failing.. I was shocked to see the state of it.. and thought it was probably quite dangerous to use.. My question is.. should such people be trained? Should I raise the issue with Husky and Stihl? as I feel the chain has been turned into a dangerous piece of junk.. Any thoughts?

one loop off and it works perfectly. Thanks again

Thanks! Makes perfect sense.. Spring in good nick just a 'little' stretched. I spoke to a spring manu. but dread to see the cost.

Anybody any idea where I could source a clutch spring for the 49/52/++

Words of wisdom speak lots.. Ok.. well if the bearing IS the right size and I can drive it in straight enough then I'll take it to the seats else.. time fort' bin.. Thanks

Ok.. well I'll give it a try.. It's dead and I'd be chuffed if i can get it working. there is a tiny dint in the seat which I hadn't spotted until giving it a ultrasonic bath... Another thing i noticed when cleaning is that on top of the caked exhaust valve, the inlet valve is the on that snapped there is a distinct blueness to the seats as though it had got to some extreme temps.. Wondering if there is any reason why not to use a standard oilite flange bearing? Its hard to measure Calipers out of battery but it seems like the guide is 3/16 x 5/16 x 1/2 which is a standard bush size... Any thoughts?

Sorry to but in here.. but if you manage getting a seat pressed out/ one machined I'd have a good home for it. or if Macpherson doesn't want it then I'll gladly take it. Have the engine from a 130 here. Valve stem caked with carbon buildup even the one that hadn't broke I couldn't push it through the guide. Springs don't exert much force/ take much to compress.. I can squeeze them together between my forefinger and thumb and my fingers aren't that strong. Could these be upgraded?

Actually after cleaning it up i am sure it's another part pressed in.. It lookes like an oilite bearing bush. Anyideas if this can be sourced and fitted? Not sure where the one that was in there has gone..

Right well.. Having taken off the other valve off the problem is pretty darn clear that a whole section is missing the break is so clean it looks as though it's another part that is pressed in however nothing in the diagrams to say the same so looks like it's properly dead.

Photos uploaded. Con rod "appears" dead straight. Where the sprin gsits.. it is damage as opposed to wear..the little washer was snapped in half and had lodged itself in there. and on the underside there is damage where I presume the bent and broken valve hit the top and jammed.

Hi, Just taken a km130r apart, valve stem had snapped and dropped and jammed piston. There is some very minor score marks inside cylinder but the rest can still see the honing pattern. Rings seem good with no marks. Piston walls are seemingly perfect. In fact it looks as though it has had very few hours.. However my concern lies (possibly through ignorance) with A) Top of piston marked/ dinted. with the tiniest of chips on one of the top corners. b) Valve Seats cylinder side seem perfect but looking underneath/ internally from where the spring sits there is nasty wear. With both these issues is there any way they can effect the running of the machine. anybody think it may before I fork out for new parts? I just have the piston and crank in ultrasonic cleaner to remove any swarf that may have fallen on.. after it is all cleaned up.. if I re-grease the bearings and soak in oil.. which oil should I use to let it all soak? Also wondering.. why is it these valves keep breaking? So many reports of the same.

Thanks all.

I have a jonsered 630 super 2 that needs a new bar and chain. I wanted to avoid as much expense yet trying not to skip on quality. I saw a 21" with a 404 replaceable sprocket nose. Is this going to be too much for the saw? What HP/ torque is ideally required to run a 404 and on what length bar?

thank you!

Thanks. as of yet only a couple of things which not too complicated. Sprocket, bar, carb overhaul and Bar Plates. What lead to the question was seeing the Bar Plates under various Husky models with the same part number. I'd like to get new fuel hoses and also... Out of curiosity, what to do with these filters? Should the wash down?

Good to read different views with a cumulative of many hours experience. Thanks! I decided on not going over the top as long as any difference was no more than 0.5mm. My aim is to get chips and not dust.. if i get dust after the time it's taken me I wont be happy. (chain came with 2nd hand saw with wrong angle and 2+mm difference so it took some work getting it right. Chain now soaking in an oil bath after having been cleaned up... ready for use.... The bar now cleaned and dressed, i dont surpose I need to oil the groove on bar seperately do I i (new tip is already greased) .

Ok great.. So they were all fine 30 mins ago .. there's me getting it to around 0-0.5mm Going to check the depth again now but were all spot on before.

When chain sharpening, what is the acceptable discrepancy between teeth depth? I'm new to this and I want to avoid kickback where possible. I've got my micrometer and wondering if I'm going a little OTT.